Noob thing I discovered when crimping and more.

[LowR3V'in]

Hi.
So first time really wiring anything serious here and
out of nowhere I tested the resistance of this ring terminal I crimped
and the end of maybe 30ft of 16g.

2.3. So I soldered the terminal. Let the wire just soak up
the solder like a sponge and it came down to 0.6.
Big difference? I have no clue, but it's something.

Yeah I'm doing this on every terminal now.
Just a good idea for noobs like me that used to just crimp with cheap chinese tools and use pep-boys terminals.

[AndrewBird]

Just a good idea for noobs like me that used to just crimp with cheap chinese tools and use pep-boys terminals.

There is your problem right there. Get a decent pair of crimpers, they are $20. Channellock and Klein both make a good pair.

Also, the insulation of you wire needs to but up against the connector for strain reflief. Otherwise movement can/will break the wire inside that gap.

[Gregs///M]

Looks like a pretty damn good solder job for a noob. Good job. I usually follow up with some heat shrink but that will be a lasting connection.

Also before taking any resistance measurements, you want to touch your probes together. You will find there is an internal resistance of the meter/probes. Some meters allow you to "zero" that value out so you have a true measurement otherwise you will have to calculate the difference.

[LowR3V'in]

Thanks I just did this 10 min ago.


You're right, I need to move the insulation flush for better flex.
Yea! I'm using some heavy duty real deal cimpers now.
They can probably smash my finger into a nice pasty smear if tried.

[bmwman91]

Back when I didn't know what I was doing I thought that soldering wires in the car was a good idea. However, soldering wires in a car is a no no in terms of long term longevity. For one, it completely ruins stranded wire's fatigue resistance by making the wire very stiff, and after years of exposure to vibration it will probably break wherever the solder front stopped wicking up the strands. The flux in the solder can also lead to corrosion, and you can't wash off the stuff that wicks up the insulation sleeve.

A good, solid crimp is just as good as solder for everything being dealt with in these cars. The resistance value is directly related to compression force, as you probably already knew.

Anyway, it's good to see people experimenting. It's how you learn. Just be aware that you don't want to actually use soldered connections in the car.

[Cephas]

Anyway, it's good to see people experimenting. It's how you learn. Just be aware that you don't want to actually use soldered connections in the car.

Yup. If you must solder, then pull the wire further out onto the ring and just solder the edge of it. That way the strain relief will still work correctly and you'll benefit from the better connection.

The best option is a quality crimp though!

[ADlBOO]

Also, the insulation of you wire needs to but up against the connector for strain reflief. Otherwise movement can/will break the wire inside that gap.

Actually you're supposed to leave about 1/8-1/16" gap between lug and insulation.

And about the soldering, you shouldn't be wicking up into the wire insulation, that's just bad soldering. I'd rather trust properly soldered joints over crimped. But crimping is easier with proper tools.

[bangn]

This is what I do at work

Use ratchet crimpers, only strip back enough for the wire to be crimped and not hang out past the insulation of the terminal.. Then put colourcoded (red for power & black for earth) heat shrink over the end to neaten up the connection.

Anything larger, like 6B/S and above I crimp, tape around the lug and overlap onto the wire, use conduit over the top and heatshrink. That way you have a bit of a failsafe measure that if for some reason the wire decides to work its way out of lug a little bit, you have tape holding it from falling out. More of a safety measure for big battery cables.

also use cable ties every at a min of 100mm and a max 200mm appart.. Loose wires cause fires. Shits me to tears seeing people using 4 cable ties over the length of 3 metres under a car.

The picture in the OP needs heatshrink over it, having wire hanging out the back like that is just asking for issues if anything rubs against it.

[Gregs///M]

FYI,

That connector does not have strain relief. Therefore, no matter where the insulation ends, you cannot rely on strain relief if the connector does not support it. Strain relief would have to be added auxiliary farther down the wire. Crimping the connector into the insulation would be a huge no no.

I would solder or crimp a connection just like in the picture, but follow up with good heat shrink just like bangn recommended.

I would not worry about soldering vs crimping in any vehicle. I've personally never seen a well soldered connection fail in a car, however there is potential for corrosion. However, the bonding ability outweighs the potential for corrosion in the long run. Every soldered connection should be cleaned with concentrated alcohol afterwards to reduce corrosion potential. Any connection, soldered or crimped is vulnerable to oxidation, which is more cause of concern. I would also cover with heat shrink.

This is the main reason I prefer solder over but splice. The splice is exposed to air and thus oxidation whereas a soldered connection will be sealed air tight with heat shrink.

[bmwman91]

FYI,

That connector does not have strain relief. Therefore, no matter where the insulation ends, you cannot rely on strain relief if the connector does not support it. Strain relief would have to be added auxiliary farther down the wire. Crimping the connector into the insulation would be a huge no no.

I would solder or crimp a connection just like in the picture, but follow up with good heat shrink just like bangn recommended.

I would not worry about soldering vs crimping in any vehicle. I've personally never seen a well soldered connection fail in a car, however there is potential for corrosion. However, the bonding ability outweighs the potential for corrosion in the long run. Every soldered connection should be cleaned with concentrated alcohol afterwards to reduce corrosion potential. Any connection, soldered or crimped is vulnerable to oxidation, which is more cause of concern. I would also cover with heat shrink.

This is the main reason I prefer solder over but splice. The splice is exposed to air and thus oxidation whereas a soldered connection will be sealed air tight with heat shrink.

Imminent explosion of Luke's head in 3...2...1.....

[Gregs///M]

Lol, We've had that conversation already in another thread a while back.

[AndrewBird]

I use un-insulated but splices with heat shrink over them. Best bang for your buck IMO.

[LowR3V'in]

FYI,

That connector does not have strain relief. Therefore, no matter where the insulation ends

You're talking about these, correct?
The more I learn about wiring the more I want to re-wire my old botched wiring. ...and I will.

Also another thing noob wiring people should know it's VERY VERY hard to solder 10g with a "light duty" iron.

[Gregs///M]

You're talking about these, correct?
The more I learn about wiring the more I want to re-wire my old botched wiring. ...and I will.

Also another thing noob wiring people should know it's VERY VERY hard to solder 10g with a "light duty" iron.

Yup that is a connector with jacket strain relief.

[blueapplesoda]

If the connector/terminal does not have a strain relief and you want to solder, do not allow the solder to penetrate the crimp; Like cephas said, keep it on the ring side, and use very little. Put some gq heat shrink on that crimp, maybe even adhesive lined for a strain relief/corrosion protection. If you wanna get crazy reliablility, wash the soldered connection in rubbing alcohol, then DI/distilled water to remove the flux.