My Favorite $30 Mod so far...(keyless entry)

[jquirit]

I just prefer using Posi-Lock connectors for dealing with stranded wiring because when I screw up (or need to replace it), it doesn't mean I have to shorten the harness to reconnect up the splice. Also makes it look very clean.

Funny how my car on the outside looks shabby but I'm more concerned about the stuff you *can't* see. :D

[StereoInstaller1]

I've been doing some reading recently.

I'd say they stopped because crimps can be done by a machine - but it is true about corrosion. If you still want to solder clean up as much extra flux with alcohol and a rag - or use a no-clean flux. Crimps are every bit as good.

But, if you really want to get geeky, you can read some technical documents on "CRIMPING, INTERCONNECTING CABLES, HARNESSES, AND WIRING" on Nasa's site. They (literally) wrote the book on it.

http://snebulos.mit.edu/projects/ref...STD-8739-4.pdf

You still cannot get to the flux inside the insulation.

[DLite]

I will be installing one of these Code Alarm units this weekend, will let everyone know how it goes (won't be installing siren or light flash relay, just the keyless entry).

http://mobile.audiovox.com/audiovox/...ODUCT_ID=CA100

Alright...well I got this install finished up yesterday...works great so far. I tied the unit into the trunk area wiring and hid the control box behind the antenna motor. For power, I ran fused line direct from the battery.

Definitely worth the effort to not have to screw with the fidgety door locks anymore!

BTW, I soldered my connections! LoL

[george graves]

ALL auto manufacturers have stopped using solder. The reason is simple...cut apart a 3 or 4 year old solder connection and you will have corrosion.

I've been doing some reading recently.

I'd say they stopped because crimps can be done by a machine - but it is true about corrosion. If you still want to solder clean up as much extra flux with alcohol and a rag - or use a no-clean flux. Crimps are every bit as good.

But, if you really want to get geeky, you can read some technical documents on "CRIMPING, INTERCONNECTING CABLES, HARNESSES, AND WIRING" on Nasa's site. They (literally) wrote the book on it.

http://snebulos.mit.edu/projects/reference/NASA-Generic/NASA-STD-8739-4.pdf

[330SMG]

i just tried to install a Omega REC 11 keyless entry on my 91 318i. I followed the DIY write up on page 1, but the problem is when I connect all the plugs into the unit, it locks all the doors itself and can't unlock by using the remote.(can hear the click sound from the unit)

Green to Green/Black
Blue to Green/Purple
Red to Antenna Red also tried to connect to the Battery
Black to Antenna Ground also tried to connect to the Brown

That's what I did for the wires
Can someone tell me what I did wrong??

Thanks for the help

You connected it in the trunk. Do it correctly and connect it next to the relay under the drivers kick panel. There is no stealing power from ridiculous sources and it has a few inches to make the relay work not 20 feet.

[jmairs]

Just finished installing my REC 43T. Super easy! I ended up splicing into the harness for the OEM amplifier (previous owner removed it) for power.

[DLite]

I will be installing one of these Code Alarm units this weekend, will let everyone know how it goes (won't be installing siren or light flash relay, just the keyless entry).

http://mobile.audiovox.com/audiovox/...ODUCT_ID=CA100

[aa34s]

i just tried to install a Omega REC 11 keyless entry on my 91 318i. I followed the DIY write up on page 1, but the problem is when I connect all the plugs into the unit, it locks all the doors itself and can't unlock by using the remote.(can hear the click sound from the unit)

Green to Green/Black
Blue to Green/Purple
Red to Antenna Red also tried to connect to the Battery
Black to Antenna Ground also tried to connect to the Brown

That's what I did for the wires
Can someone tell me what I did wrong??

Thanks for the help

[StereoInstaller1]

ALL auto manufacturers have stopped using solder. The reason is simple...cut apart a 3 or 4 year old solder connection and you will have corrosion. Not in the joint itself, but an inch up either side of the wire...the flux (rosin core or not) will wick up the wire and corrode.

Inside the car, heatshrink is nifty and all, but just normal butt connectors work great, unless you use the wrong size or shitty crimpers.

[harv]

I personally have had good luck with solder and shrink tubing. The problem you can run into with solder is in a high vibration environment. The solder makes the end of the wire solid and that can cause cracks in the wire strands. This is why aircraft only use crimp connections. I just don't think the vibration frequency in a STREET car is high enough for a good solder and shrink tubing deal go bad.

John

[JMil86]

Wanted!

[kencopperwheat]

Crimp connectors w/ shrinkwrap is the best option. Solder will deteriorate the wires after a while.

I crimped both facotry wires into one end of the butt-connector and then the keyless unit wire into the other.

[lylefk]

I didn't, actually. I read the first half a dozen pages and then kind of skipped around...I'm not surprised you've been telling them though. I was pretty surprised to hear how this was being installed.

In addition to bad crimpers, it could be a bad crimp location as well...you want your crimp to push down on the side of the butt connector where the indent is in the connector itself. Sorry no pics, does that make sense?

[Surtr]

I assume you noticed me telling them that for a few years now..."T taps" are shit too...don't forget that!

Since you are against solder, how do you go about doing it? 2 ends into one side of a butt connecter, then one end doubled over on the other side? I've still had bad experience with that. I think in another thread you said it could be shitty crimpers. Still not really sure why you're against soldering, either.

[Stevie30]

I assume you noticed me telling them that for a few years now..."T taps" are shit too...don't forget that!

+1. Solder is our friend.