My Favorite $30 Mod so far...(keyless entry)

[illest318i]

Search keyless on amazon it's the one that costs $15!

My only complaint is that the range isn't that great but it's much better than no keyless.

Okay I bought and just received the keyless entry, but the diagram looks a little too complicated. You mind helping me out how you wired yours? Or can you show me a link where someone wire's it?

Thanks in advance!

[wartex11]

Thanks mate gives me a point in the right direction,

[saturnv7890]

Hi guys,

So with an e30 without remote central locking, if the boot is unlocked and I try to lock the car from my drivers door the locks will kick back up telling me something is wrong (boot is not locked) (no problems and correct operation)

When the boot is locked I can lock car manually with key no problems, (central locking correct operation)

Has anyone wired up this kit in the boot, and;
- when the boot is unlocked the remote central locking will try and lock (but kick back up because the boot is locked), but
- when the boot is locked the remote central locking will not activate at all? The system thinks the locks are already locked?

Therefore remote central locking works to unlock but not lock!

Mine is acting like the above and am looking for an easier fix than rewiring the system into passenger or drivers locks!

You may want to try a jumper between pins 6 and 9 on your central locking unit (drivers side footwell)

I'd read the crap out of those wiring diagrams first to understand what you're doing.

Mine had a similar issue and that was the fix

[wikkid]

Why not use these Posi-Lock splice connectors, rather than cutting and soldering wires? I use this company's products to tap into wires on motorcycles and cars without having to make cuts. I also use their connectors if I am cutting wires and making new connections.

Zero problems with vibrations, or loosening connections. I first heard of them on Web Bike World,when I was starting in on adding some stuff onto my bike:

http://www.webbikeworld.com/r2/posi-tap/posi-tap.htm

[wartex11]

Hi guys,

So with an e30 without remote central locking, if the boot is unlocked and I try to lock the car from my drivers door the locks will kick back up telling me something is wrong (boot is not locked) (no problems and correct operation)

When the boot is locked I can lock car manually with key no problems, (central locking correct operation)

Has anyone wired up this kit in the boot, and;
- when the boot is unlocked the remote central locking will try and lock (but kick back up because the boot is locked), but
- when the boot is locked the remote central locking will not activate at all? The system thinks the locks are already locked?

Therefore remote central locking works to unlock but not lock!

Mine is acting like the above and am looking for an easier fix than rewiring the system into passenger or drivers locks!

[saturnv7890]

Search keyless on amazon it's the one that costs $15!

My only complaint is that the range isn't that great but it's much better than no keyless.

[illest318i]

Picked up the $15 one that's floating all over ebay right now, I had my doubts but it's been working amazingly for the past 2 months. And I figure if I do fry the interal relays or traces, a new one is $15 and will plug right in. I could also run some external relays if I deem if necessary, there's plenty of room.

If you get it, be sure to follow their wiring diagram for a "negative trigger" as the e30 locks working by grounding specific wires (one for lock and one for unlock)

In conclusion: For $15, you'd be stupid not to do it

Link?

[saturnv7890]

Picked up the $15 one that's floating all over ebay right now, I had my doubts but it's been working amazingly for the past 2 months. And I figure if I do fry the interal relays or traces, a new one is $15 and will plug right in. I could also run some external relays if I deem if necessary, there's plenty of room.

If you get it, be sure to follow their wiring diagram for a "negative trigger" as the e30 locks working by grounding specific wires (one for lock and one for unlock)

In conclusion: For $15, you'd be stupid not to do it

[Gruelius]

I got one without the blades, piece of cake to install, also wired in the flashing lights by connecting the 2 indicators with 2 diodes.

[The White Guy]

Great Mod., Great write up.

Just installed the REC43 keyless entry on my 91 318is.
Great little modification and it saves the key lock cylinder.
Great cheap modification.
Thanks,
Stan

[Gruelius]

is the e30 key a HAA type?

looking at this.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Remote-Central-Locking-Keyless-Entry-BMW-E30-E36-E34-M3-/150871163766?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item23209f4376&_uhb=1

[mpower]

Just installed this http://www.aliexpress.com/snapshot/228660809.html and wired it according to their diagram for negative trigger. I can press the lock button and it will lock then press the unlock button and it does nothing but when I press the lock button again it will unlock the car. Anyone know how to fix this?

I don't see the problem.
At least that's how my system works (one button for lock/unlock).
So if you can live with that then it's doing what is suppose to do.

[SedanSandwich]

Just installed this http://www.aliexpress.com/snapshot/228660809.html and wired it according to their diagram for negative trigger. I can press the lock button and it will lock then press the unlock button and it does nothing but when I press the lock button again it will unlock the car. Anyone know how to fix this?

[mpower]

I installed this system 2 weeks ago. it works, but it does not respond right away, I have to press the button couple of times to ake it work, and i have to be within 5 feet from the car. I know there is a little wheel for adjustment on the system, but i don't know what it does.

Did you ever figure this out?
My 91 has the stock keyless entry system.

If I'm too close to the car it will activate the alarm but not lock the doors.
I have to be at least 10 feet away for it to lock and activate the alarm together.

I figure, it may need a fine tuning with it's radio signal.
Since of course it's not IR, (like newer cars).

Probably something inside that has a dial or rheostat.

[quikveedb2]

"you also reconnect them with door loop eliminated"

im very unsure about this step, after cutting the red/black wires what do I do?

You need to (1) cut the two red/black wires where the go into the driver side A-pillar connector from the body side of the harness, and (2) solder/crimp them together. Hence, reconnecting them with the door loop eliminated, running 12v straight to the relay & control unit.