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    A/C question

    Alright so I plan on revamping my A/C that currently doesn't blow cold and converting to R134a...I took her out of the garage today for a nice 60degree drive. When I went to take the battery tender off I noticed one of the A/C caps (fill point...I think low side) were down by the windshield reservoir and upon further inspection I noticed it was because the arm of the hood (bonnet) rubs up against it. Anyone know if this is a normal spot for it?...Is the line in the wrong position? Also is there anyway to tell from these pictures if at some point; a PO converted to R134a already
    Any help is appreciated and I'm sorry in advance if this is the wrong place to post
    Attached Files

    #2
    Yeah that looks normal. Maybe the cap was not all the way on and ended up being knocked off or maybe your hinge is slightly bent or has too much play on it. I would avoid any type of collision between the hinge and fitting, even if that means leaving the cap off.

    My system was converted to 134 also, I find that it works very poorly and doesnt last long. I actually use a product from Enviro-safe that is a environmentally friendly 134 alternative that is compatible with both 134 and R12 systems. Not only is it cheaper, last longer but it blows much colder too. If your AC is still lacking after all that, I find a rebuilt compressor will usually bring the system to max performance.
    Owner - Bavarian Restoration
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      #3
      The hood hinge hits because there's an r12 to r134a adapter on the high pressure schrader port. To remedy this, you will need to evacuate the gas, remove the schrader valve from the adapter and put it back in the r12 port. Then while it's empty, get a dryer that has the r12 port on it, remove the valve and put the adapter on the dryer - you may already have a port there, but should change the dryer each time the system is opened.

      Also, as Gregs///M mentioned, the system will lose gas unless you change to (or happen to have) barrier hoses. 134a can be very efficient in an e30, but the system has to be upgraded properly. A tubular condenser isn't efficient enough for the lazier 134a thermal properties.

      There's a great thread/how-to on here:

      https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/for...ion-thread-diy

      I have done this conversion many times over the years at work, and still reference this thread if I have a brain fart moment.
      john@m20guru.com
      Links:
      Transaction feedback: Here, here and here. Thanks :D

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        #4
        BMW updated that AC line to solve the problem you are having. The 134a version of the line has the fitting in a different location that does not interfere with the hinge. I have updated my Touring to the new style line and have one on the shelf for the Cabrio. As an alternative, there are 134a adapters that don't have integral schrader valves just screw onto the R12 fitting. That's what I use on the Cabrio. I just keep the adapter in the glove box and install it when I need to hook up AC gauges. Since it seems like you may need to open up your system for any solution, I would recommend just getting the new line from BMW.

        John is correct - the thread he linked in his post is awesome. I also still use it regularly.

        Cory
        1992 325i Cabrio
        1988 320i Touring
        2000 M5
        1977 530i
        2015 328i - Euro Delivery/Performance Center Delivery
        BMWCCA
        E30CCA

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by ForcedFirebird View Post
          The hood hinge hits because there's an r12 to r134a adapter on the high pressure schrader port. To remedy this, you will need to evacuate the gas, remove the schrader valve from the adapter and put it back in the r12 port. Then while it's empty, get a dryer that has the r12 port on it, remove the valve and put the adapter on the dryer - you may already have a port there, but should change the dryer each time the system is opened.

          Also, as Gregs///M mentioned, the system will lose gas unless you change to (or happen to have) barrier hoses. 134a can be very efficient in an e30, but the system has to be upgraded properly. A tubular condenser isn't efficient enough for the lazier 134a thermal properties.

          There's a great thread/how-to on here:

          https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/for...ion-thread-diy

          I have done this conversion many times over the years at work, and still reference this thread if I have a brain fart moment.
          thanks for that, I think I read that entire thread twice and is what I plan on doing to convert my E30 just need to confirm my current compressor will work...you happen to work at a shop in NY? lol

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by cory58 View Post
            BMW updated that AC line to solve the problem you are having. The 134a version of the line has the fitting in a different location that does not interfere with the hinge. I have updated my Touring to the new style line and have one on the shelf for the Cabrio. As an alternative, there are 134a adapters that don't have integral schrader valves just screw onto the R12 fitting. That's what I use on the Cabrio. I just keep the adapter in the glove box and install it when I need to hook up AC gauges. Since it seems like you may need to open up your system for any solution, I would recommend just getting the new line from BMW.

            John is correct - the thread he linked in his post is awesome. I also still use it regularly.

            Cory
            you happen to have a part number for the line? that sounds like a great addition to my list for the conversion

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by krswon View Post

              you happen to have a part number for the line? that sounds like a great addition to my list for the conversion

              64538391040

              1992 325i Cabrio
              1988 320i Touring
              2000 M5
              1977 530i
              2015 328i - Euro Delivery/Performance Center Delivery
              BMWCCA
              E30CCA

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by krswon View Post

                thanks for that, I think I read that entire thread twice and is what I plan on doing to convert my E30 just need to confirm my current compressor will work...you happen to work at a shop in NY? lol
                Sorry, Fort Lauderdale area. A fair bit south of NY. :/
                john@m20guru.com
                Links:
                Transaction feedback: Here, here and here. Thanks :D

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by cory58 View Post


                  64538391040
                  Thankyou!
                  Originally posted by ForcedFirebird View Post

                  Sorry, Fort Lauderdale area. A fair bit south of NY. :/
                  No worries!

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