May have posted this but posting it again. They changed the timing belt in a garage last year. They weren't very good it seems as the water pump started to leak. They should have changed it but said they couldn't get hold of one from BM. I have a new one. According to the Bentley one can go and replace the pump without replacing the timing belt. It's almost brand new just over a 1000 miles or so on it so is it okay just to change the pump?
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Waterpump can be changed without touching the timing belt but it won't free up the area you need to clean the engine block. The timing belt tensioner spring pushes on waterpump housing also.
I see no harm in reusing the belt if there's only been a 1k miles on it. Mark the direction and be sure to install it so it rotates the same direction. Check your cam and idle pulleys and replace if they are the old stamped metal type. -
Thanks , I have another question or two actually. What's the purpose of that tensioner spring pushing against the water pump? It was a real hard job to put it back on the new pump. And why does the rotor has to be removed for changing the water pump? The garage that did the timing belt last year apparently changed the Allen screws to regular ones and broke one in the process. I took the the two out and the rotor came out quite easily but the third broken screw stayed in.. So when we put it back now it has only two screws holding it. To take that broken screw out is a major job as I can't fit a drill in there even with the radiator and fan removed and I think the only way to take it out is to drill it out. Anyway, changed the pump and put back everything together now. We didn't touch the timing belt, nor did we loosen the tensioner screws or did anything to it and the belt is tight just like before. The new pump has a slight whistling sound on it but no leaks and the car seems to be running like before though I have only tested it on short runs.Comment
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The spring is there to set the initial tension on the timing belt. it effectively gets isolated and can theoretically be removed once you fully lock down the timing belt idler bolts.Originally posted by peterb View Post
There is supposed to be a cover behind the rotor with a lip that sits on the upper timing cover. Removal of this cover requres removal of the rotor to remove this and allow removal of the upper timing cover. Often this is not present / misplaced or otherwise so in which case the rotor doesnt need to be removed.
item 14
89 E30 325is Lachs Silber - currently M20B31, M20B33 in the works, stroked to the hilt...
new build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=317505
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So effectively if I have to change this new water pump we installed now for one reason or other I do not have to put that spring with the rod back with the new pump ? Provided the tensioner bolts or the timing belt bolts are not loosened up? It would greatly facilitate the water pump installation when/if needed as it's really hard to put that spring back while holding the paper gasket on the pump in place. And I suppose the spring would have to be kept for a future new timing belt installation.Comment
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Yes, you can get away without reinstalling the spring, however a means for redundancy if the bolts ever come loose it doesn't hurt to have it in place. Normally i do the pump when i am doing the belt. Occasionally i skip the pump and do it every 2 belts as normally i am changing on a time basis rather than mileage due to how it is being driven and the OE pumps last pretty goodOriginally posted by peterb View Post89 E30 325is Lachs Silber - currently M20B31, M20B33 in the works, stroked to the hilt...
new build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=317505
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The cover behind the rotor is also an insulator to keep your rotor from arcing to ground. If missing, then likely someone incompetent worked on your engine.Comment
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