Before We Begin: I want to admit that this took 3 days to complete because I had to reseal the front of the engine with new gaskets and fighting a nightmare woodruff key, If your woodruff key is damaged and needs replacing... Go ahead and get it out of the crankshaft with any tool that can do so but otherwise... LEAVE IT ALONE! Learn from me that If your key is fine, You do not need to replace it for your new pulley. Here's my long-awaited guide for the m10 folks here.
WELCOME TO THE M10 STANDALONE SERIES, This is Part 3 of my mini series where I go over and modify my M10 to run on a standalone ECU in a stockish E30.
(THE M10 TRIGGER WHEEL INSTALLATION)
Let's begin by going over the tools and parts you will need through out this installation!
You will need:
TOOLS:
1/2 200 FT LBS Torque Wrench.
Standard 2-3 Gear Puller
Big Impact Gun that holds around 400-700 pounds of torque - (Removing 30mm Nut and installing.)
30mm Socket
Needle nose Pliers
Brake Clean And Papertowels.
Brass Punches/Chisels
Dead Blow Hammer
Flathead ScrewDriver.
2X4 Block Of Wood
VW Flywheel Holding Tool/BMW Flywheel Locking Tool - (Locking The Flywheel to install and torque the 30mm Nut)
Large Pry Bar
PB Blaster / Penetrating Oil
Loctite - (30mm Bolt)
PARTS:
Clearance Motor Oil of your choice.
Custom Homemade Trigger Wheel that you will weld onto your stock crank pulley OR Ireland Engineering M10 Trigger Wheel Kit. (NOTE: 02Again sells the bracket for your Ford VR Crank Sensor but they do not sell their trigger wheel kit as of 2019)
BMW Front Crankshaft Main Seal: 11141709629
BMW Crankshaft Woodruff Key: 07119951485
New Shorter V Belt - Example: Napa 25-7330
Energy Drink Or Coffee of your choice.
Optional Tools and parts:
13mm, 19mm, 17mm and 10mm Socket with small impact or 3/8 Ratching Wrench.
Oil Pan Gasket
Upper and Lower Timing Cover Gaskets.
Red RTV Gasket Maker.
Got Everything? Let's Get Started
Start by getting the car in a high gear and pulling up on the E-brake if you have a manual transmission, Make sure you get the engine properly in sync with the cam mark or timing mark itself on the lower timing cover, You will be able to get the crank bolt off with a 30mm socket on the impact but Ideally we will want to pull the inspection cover at the bottom of the engine where the transmission and engine meet up as shown in this picture:
There are 4 13mm nuts, Two short ones and two long ones plus 4 E-Torx bolts that require removal before you pull off the cover. Next you will need to install the flywheel tool (Either the m10 unit or a VW Flywheel one) onto one of the available threaded holes that you took out the torx for, From research and personal shitshow under here, the bolt included for the VW tool might fit or not fit so whichever bolt you can slide into the flywheel tool and then screw it down so the flywheel is locked in place, THEN return yourself to the front of the motor where you will now lube up the nut with your penetrating oil, This shall help you as you remove the crank nut with your 30mm socket and impact gun, you can also use a breaker bar with a cheater pipe here if you don't have a impact gun at your disposal:
The next step is getting that pulley off the engine and then getting the front main seal off the timing cover, you will need to use a 2 or 3 gear jaw puller to carefully extract the pulley.
After removing the pulley and then wiping everything down, You can do the following as to remove the seal: One: You can screw in a household screw and then wedge the main seal out with the screw in the seal. Two: You can lightly tap the seal inwards and then use a needlenose pliers to extract it. Either way you need to be careful since you can easily nick the cover and then you will have to replace it, Take your time here and ensure that you get it out before you move onto the key.
(AS SHOWN HERE: THE NEEDLENOSE CAN PULL OUT THE SEAL WITH CAREFUL EXTRACTION)
So far you got everything out, Now it's time to see if the woodruff key is savable, If the key is mangled or warped then you will need to extract it with brass punches and a hammer. HOWEVER: Be warned that this key is a prick and will prove itself difficult to remove on the first few go's, I would try to use penetrating lube and plently of smacking on the backside to get the key out, This is where if you need to remove the timing covers and get it out... I'd go ahead and reseal up the covers while you're at it! There are 3 10mm bolts in the oil pan for the cover along with 13mm bolts all around. While you also zip off the 13mm and 10mm nuts, Replace the #15 and #14th nut with two longer ones for the sensor bracket, This will come in handy later but I would recommend giving this a read and then following the picture for removing each bolt in order: https://www.bmw2002faq.com/forums/to...Comment-314385
See this caveman punching out the key in a Pontiac V8? After you replace the key and then carefully snug it in there so it can line up with the new pulley, Go ahead and put on the timing covers again and oil pan with new gaskets/RTV if you decided to replace the key, Otherwise you just need to get the new front main seal in there! Go ahead and use the local part store's clearance motor oil to lube up the timing cover and your seal so you can punch it in there, Worry not that it's a very snug fit, You are going to use a 32mm socket and a hammer to carefully punch in the middle of the seal until it's nice and flush with the cover itself. Once the seal is in? It's time to install the pulley itself... As for installing the Pulley, You are either going to take your homemade pulley or a IE/02again pulley and line it up with the woodruff key slot on the most inner barrel of said pulley before you begin seating it into the crankshaft itself.
HERE: We need to use our 2x4 wooden block and a hammer to seat this guy until it physically reaches it's limit, You can also use the side of the hammer head if you don't have a block for this step, Either way once you seat him into the crankshaft and then you zip the nut back onto the crank pulley so the pulley can be fully seated into the timing cover and crankshaft, You need to take out the nut and then put a good amount of red loctite onto it before you slowly zip it and then change the impact for a torque wrench. Remember when I said that we needed to lock the flywheel? You use the tool or a pry bar in the starter ring gear to lock the flywheel so we can torque this crank nut to 150LB, The Bentley Manual will list the torque spec but I just gave it to you, HA! Anyways once you torque the pulley and then make sure it's properly lined up with the timing mark on the timing cover, You're done for the first part.
SECOND PART: TIMING.
Short and sweet, we are going to install the sensor and bracket plus the v belt but that will be a second post here since I am out of photos.
WELCOME TO THE M10 STANDALONE SERIES, This is Part 3 of my mini series where I go over and modify my M10 to run on a standalone ECU in a stockish E30.
(THE M10 TRIGGER WHEEL INSTALLATION)
Let's begin by going over the tools and parts you will need through out this installation!
You will need:
TOOLS:
1/2 200 FT LBS Torque Wrench.
Standard 2-3 Gear Puller
Big Impact Gun that holds around 400-700 pounds of torque - (Removing 30mm Nut and installing.)
30mm Socket
Needle nose Pliers
Brake Clean And Papertowels.
Brass Punches/Chisels
Dead Blow Hammer
Flathead ScrewDriver.
2X4 Block Of Wood
VW Flywheel Holding Tool/BMW Flywheel Locking Tool - (Locking The Flywheel to install and torque the 30mm Nut)
Large Pry Bar
PB Blaster / Penetrating Oil
Loctite - (30mm Bolt)
PARTS:
Clearance Motor Oil of your choice.
Custom Homemade Trigger Wheel that you will weld onto your stock crank pulley OR Ireland Engineering M10 Trigger Wheel Kit. (NOTE: 02Again sells the bracket for your Ford VR Crank Sensor but they do not sell their trigger wheel kit as of 2019)
BMW Front Crankshaft Main Seal: 11141709629
BMW Crankshaft Woodruff Key: 07119951485
New Shorter V Belt - Example: Napa 25-7330
Energy Drink Or Coffee of your choice.
Optional Tools and parts:
13mm, 19mm, 17mm and 10mm Socket with small impact or 3/8 Ratching Wrench.
Oil Pan Gasket
Upper and Lower Timing Cover Gaskets.
Red RTV Gasket Maker.
Got Everything? Let's Get Started
Start by getting the car in a high gear and pulling up on the E-brake if you have a manual transmission, Make sure you get the engine properly in sync with the cam mark or timing mark itself on the lower timing cover, You will be able to get the crank bolt off with a 30mm socket on the impact but Ideally we will want to pull the inspection cover at the bottom of the engine where the transmission and engine meet up as shown in this picture:
There are 4 13mm nuts, Two short ones and two long ones plus 4 E-Torx bolts that require removal before you pull off the cover. Next you will need to install the flywheel tool (Either the m10 unit or a VW Flywheel one) onto one of the available threaded holes that you took out the torx for, From research and personal shitshow under here, the bolt included for the VW tool might fit or not fit so whichever bolt you can slide into the flywheel tool and then screw it down so the flywheel is locked in place, THEN return yourself to the front of the motor where you will now lube up the nut with your penetrating oil, This shall help you as you remove the crank nut with your 30mm socket and impact gun, you can also use a breaker bar with a cheater pipe here if you don't have a impact gun at your disposal:
The next step is getting that pulley off the engine and then getting the front main seal off the timing cover, you will need to use a 2 or 3 gear jaw puller to carefully extract the pulley.
After removing the pulley and then wiping everything down, You can do the following as to remove the seal: One: You can screw in a household screw and then wedge the main seal out with the screw in the seal. Two: You can lightly tap the seal inwards and then use a needlenose pliers to extract it. Either way you need to be careful since you can easily nick the cover and then you will have to replace it, Take your time here and ensure that you get it out before you move onto the key.
(AS SHOWN HERE: THE NEEDLENOSE CAN PULL OUT THE SEAL WITH CAREFUL EXTRACTION)
So far you got everything out, Now it's time to see if the woodruff key is savable, If the key is mangled or warped then you will need to extract it with brass punches and a hammer. HOWEVER: Be warned that this key is a prick and will prove itself difficult to remove on the first few go's, I would try to use penetrating lube and plently of smacking on the backside to get the key out, This is where if you need to remove the timing covers and get it out... I'd go ahead and reseal up the covers while you're at it! There are 3 10mm bolts in the oil pan for the cover along with 13mm bolts all around. While you also zip off the 13mm and 10mm nuts, Replace the #15 and #14th nut with two longer ones for the sensor bracket, This will come in handy later but I would recommend giving this a read and then following the picture for removing each bolt in order: https://www.bmw2002faq.com/forums/to...Comment-314385
See this caveman punching out the key in a Pontiac V8? After you replace the key and then carefully snug it in there so it can line up with the new pulley, Go ahead and put on the timing covers again and oil pan with new gaskets/RTV if you decided to replace the key, Otherwise you just need to get the new front main seal in there! Go ahead and use the local part store's clearance motor oil to lube up the timing cover and your seal so you can punch it in there, Worry not that it's a very snug fit, You are going to use a 32mm socket and a hammer to carefully punch in the middle of the seal until it's nice and flush with the cover itself. Once the seal is in? It's time to install the pulley itself... As for installing the Pulley, You are either going to take your homemade pulley or a IE/02again pulley and line it up with the woodruff key slot on the most inner barrel of said pulley before you begin seating it into the crankshaft itself.
HERE: We need to use our 2x4 wooden block and a hammer to seat this guy until it physically reaches it's limit, You can also use the side of the hammer head if you don't have a block for this step, Either way once you seat him into the crankshaft and then you zip the nut back onto the crank pulley so the pulley can be fully seated into the timing cover and crankshaft, You need to take out the nut and then put a good amount of red loctite onto it before you slowly zip it and then change the impact for a torque wrench. Remember when I said that we needed to lock the flywheel? You use the tool or a pry bar in the starter ring gear to lock the flywheel so we can torque this crank nut to 150LB, The Bentley Manual will list the torque spec but I just gave it to you, HA! Anyways once you torque the pulley and then make sure it's properly lined up with the timing mark on the timing cover, You're done for the first part.
SECOND PART: TIMING.
Short and sweet, we are going to install the sensor and bracket plus the v belt but that will be a second post here since I am out of photos.
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