DIY - Rear Trailing Arm Bushings

[brianpgriset]

how do u like the powerflex bushings?

No complaints thus far. My biggest concern was them squeaking but they have been nice and quiet.

[S62]

great writeup

[TimKninja]

Great writeup, good to know!

Still would rather drop the rear subframe and do those bushings at the same time, ive been waiting to do this. I got a heavy clunk in the rear end and think its time to do this whole job :/

[canakami]

Looks so easy!

[Cletonius]

Great writeup, good to know!

Still would rather drop the rear subframe and do those bushings at the same time, ive been waiting to do this. I got a heavy clunk in the rear end and think its time to do this whole job :/

I'm getting that same rear end clunk myself.

I'm going to do all the bushings front/rear, shocks, springs, fuel tank.... basically everything under the car all at once. Any tips? What has to come off and what can stay on the subframe if I remove the whole thing as a unit?

[mr.vang]

No complaints thus far. My biggest concern was them squeaking but they have been nice and quiet.

those powerflex look dark blue. i thought they were suppose to be purple? its the street kit right?

[TrentW]

I think it would be easier to just drop the whole subframe, no messing with half shafts just undo the trailing arm bolts once droped and pop them out of the diff.

just drop the whole subframe. it is vastly easier and requires much less painstaking disassembly. plus, you can address lots of other issues while you are in there.

I dropped the whole rear assembly out, separated the trailing arms from the sub-frame and pressed out the bushings just hanging there. I didn't have to mess with the e-brake assembly or anything else of that sort.

Still would rather drop the rear subframe and do those bushings at the same time, ive been waiting to do this. I got a heavy clunk in the rear end and think its time to do this whole job :/

Couldn't agree more. More often than not, if the TAB's are bad, the subframe bushings are bad also.

Really consider going with the OE rubber bushings. Everyone thinks the urethane is so much better cause their bushings were so worn out in the first place, but if they'd just gone with the OE they would realize how great it is and they wouldn't be complaining about all the noise and creaking the urethane makes. And remember to tighten the TAB's with the suspension loaded, otherwise you'll eventually end up doing the job again. Tip:You'll need a ratcheting wrench. The space is tight, but it works.

[Vivek]

And remember to tighten the TAB's with the suspension loaded, otherwise you'll eventually end up doing the job again. Tip:You'll need a ratcheting wrench. The space is tight, but it works.

Why is this? I don't wanna do this twice lol (and I've already done it all once).

Also, how do you guys lube urethane? On the outside of the bushing where it fits on the trailing arm, on the inside between the urethane and the metal sleeve, between the metal sleeve and the bolt, or just everywhere/a combination?

[TrentW]

Why is this? I don't wanna do this twice lol (and I've already done it all once).

Because otherwise once you lower the car the bushings will bind and eventually fail. I used ramps under the rear wheels to pre-load the bushings.

Again, I used OE rubber bushings, but the same rule applies.

[eight~deuce]

excellent write up. +1 for torque specs

[brianpgriset]

those powerflex look dark blue. i thought they were suppose to be purple? its the street kit right?

You're right, they are purple and are the street bushes. I lubed mine well with the supplied copper/oil lube and still have no squeaks.

I didn't drop the subframe as the po had just recently replaced the subframe bushings.

[95BMWIC]

Sorry to bring this back from the dead.. Need to subscribe as I will be doing this soon..

Ordered Lemforder bushings - going to do the bearings at the same time...

[Todd Black 88]

Where is the proper place to put the rear jack stands when removing the rear subframe? I want to lower it a bit so I don't have to empty my gas tank(it's full) to get the passenger inner bolt out.

When re torquing the bolts, can I just jack the trailing arm up to simulate a loaded suspension?

What's the torque spec on thoseT/A bolts? Fck they were/are tight!

[Cletonius]

Where is the proper place to put the rear jack stands when removing the rear subframe? I want to lower it a bit so I don't have to empty my gas tank(it's full) to get the passenger inner bolt out.

When re torquing the bolts, can I just jack the trailing arm up to simulate a loaded suspension?

What's the torque spec on thoseT/A bolts? Fck they were/are tight!

I put them on the pinch weld in front of the drain holes. Gave lots of clearance to access the subframe.

Why would you start this job with a full tank?

I did mine with the whole subframe on the floor then raised the assembly up and secured it as a unit.

Spec is like 20-30 ft lbs iirc but they're locknuts so they stay put like glue. Get new nuts if you haven't already. You'll need them for the driveshaft and diff bushing too.

[Todd Black 88]

Lol, I store the car with a full tank. I pulled it out of storage to do this job. I didn't know the damn filler neck tube was in the way of the bolt. Stupid design. Lol