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The Detailed E30 R-134a Conversion Thread/DIY

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  • cory58
    replied
    Originally posted by 325e '87 View Post
    I’m getting a steady 56º at highway speeds in 90º weather. I drove through a thunderstorm and briefly got a vent temp of 39º.

    I have to say a huge thank you to all the people that have contributed to this thread. The parallel flow condenser and the spal fan made my car available to me in the hot months, completely comfortable in my South Carolina climate. I get pretty grumpy when I cant drive my car.

    Next thing I’m going to do is get my windows coated with ceramic film. You know, the kind that has zero tint but blocks UV. I should get it done in the next couple of weeks and I think it will really help, just as much as functioning A/C.

    Glad you're happy with it. If the car's been baking in the sun at 90 degrees, then 56 out the vents is good. Enjoy your year-round E30!

    Leave a comment:


  • S.J.1981
    replied
    Originally posted by 325e '87 View Post
    This is the one that I was advised to get, it works great. A little loud, but cool A/C is worth it.



    Using the basic Hayden Automotive fan mounting kit I re used the factory rubber grommets from the original fan, cut some fuel hose to fill the gaps, drilled holes in the fan walls, and pulled the mounting zip ties through. Secure and no vibrations.

    Thank you, that SPAL 30100382 is also named SPAL VA08-AP10/ C-23S here in Germany. Sadly i already finished up the A/C system in the engine bay yesterday (condenser replaced, all hoses flushed, new o-rings, new drier/receiver, drained compressor and filled with fresh oil).

    Will be tackling the expansion valve and evap today, but im glad to know which model to get incase i realize that the fan needs to be upgraded, would be easier to remove the bumper and replace the fan than re-do everything again.

    Do you maybe have a model/part number for that mounting kit as well? we may have it here too!

    Leave a comment:


  • 325e '87
    replied
    Originally posted by S.J.1981 View Post
    Is this the correct SPAL fan if i wish to ditch the factory condenser fan for an upgraded one?

    Model: SPAL VA10-AP50/C-61A

    If it is not correct, id appreciate the correct one. Looking for as close to bolt on as OE/OEM. Or is the factory fan enough with the upgraded condenser?
    This is the one that I was advised to get, it works great. A little loud, but cool A/C is worth it.



    Using the basic Hayden Automotive fan mounting kit I re used the factory rubber grommets from the original fan, cut some fuel hose to fill the gaps, drilled holes in the fan walls, and pulled the mounting zip ties through. Secure and no vibrations.

    Last edited by 325e '87; 07-29-2019, 01:55 PM. Reason: Added mounting pic

    Leave a comment:


  • 325e '87
    replied
    Originally posted by cory58 View Post
    What's the temp coming out the vents?
    I’m getting a steady 56º at highway speeds in 90º weather. I drove through a thunderstorm and briefly got a vent temp of 39º.

    I have to say a huge thank you to all the people that have contributed to this thread. The parallel flow condenser and the spal fan made my car available to me in the hot months, completely comfortable in my South Carolina climate. I get pretty grumpy when I cant drive my car.

    Next thing I’m going to do is get my windows coated with ceramic film. You know, the kind that has zero tint but blocks UV. I should get it done in the next couple of weeks and I think it will really help, just as much as functioning A/C.

    Leave a comment:


  • S.J.1981
    replied
    Is this the correct SPAL fan if i wish to ditch the factory condenser fan for an upgraded one?

    Model: SPAL VA10-AP50/C-61A

    If it is not correct, id appreciate the correct one. Looking for as close to bolt on as OE/OEM. Or is the factory fan enough with the upgraded condenser?

    Leave a comment:


  • jeffnhiscars
    replied
    Holding a vacuum doesn't mean there's no air or residual moisture in the system. Not being able to give it a full charge typically means there's something in there that shouldn't be. It's so easy to let some air back in after pulling a vac

    Leave a comment:


  • cory58
    replied
    Originally posted by 325e '87 View Post
    Ok, I replace the condenser and the dryer, resealed and held 30” vacuum for about 12 hours.

    I cant get my system to draw in more than about. 10oz. Of refrigerant. I’m getting kind of angry and considering pumping it back down to vacuum and trying again.

    My pressures are nearly factory, 40psi low, hovering around 200psi high. I know the pressures need to go up from where they are but Ive been running my engine for an hour now, revving sometimes. When I rev it my low side drops to around 20psi, high side drops a little.

    What's the temp coming out the vents?

    Leave a comment:


  • S.J.1981
    replied
    I found the following adapters, i need to measure the length of the ones i have.

    I am fairly certain, i found some that were 33 mm in height/length (not including the cap).

    For my 1990 325i both fittings need to be 7/16", but again i shall double check later today.
    Attached Files

    Leave a comment:


  • S.J.1981
    replied
    Originally posted by rzmoser View Post
    Please reply back if you find one. I'm looking for one too
    Will do.

    Leave a comment:


  • rzmoser
    replied
    Originally posted by S.J.1981 View Post
    Thank you, i shall continue searching to find a "shorter" high pressure side adapter then.
    Please reply back if you find one. I'm looking for one too

    Leave a comment:


  • S.J.1981
    replied
    Originally posted by jeffnhiscars View Post
    There are different configurations of adaptors so just find one that fits. It can be tight but I've never heard of anyone have to mod that pipe to get one on.
    Thank you, i shall continue searching to find a "shorter" high pressure side adapter then.

    Leave a comment:


  • jeffnhiscars
    replied
    There are different configurations of adaptors so just find one that fits. It can be tight but I've never heard of anyone have to mod that pipe to get one on.

    Leave a comment:


  • S.J.1981
    replied
    What did you guys do regarding the high pressure side valve?

    Managed to remove the schrader valve from the low pressure side, and screw in the R134a adaptor, hood closes without issues.

    The high pressure side adaptor sticks out about 1" or so, before the hood support hinge hits it. Can that whole hose be "twisted" somehow (when removing for replacing the o-rings), or keep the R12 factory fitting and screw in the R134a when filling only?

    BMW does not make that hose anymore, it is from the evap to receiver/dryer line.

    Leave a comment:


  • jeffnhiscars
    replied
    Originally posted by Garemie View Post
    I think ultimately I didn't properly flush the system. It's a heat wave in my area, I think I'm going to hand this over to a shop to have it flushed and refilled. I'm going to save myself from heat stroke while working on it.


    It's gotta just be too much oil. Probably mineral oil too.
    Mineral oil has to be thoroughly flushed before converting as it does not get along with r134 at all. I'm not exactly sure what the results are but I do know they are bad.

    Leave a comment:


  • Garemie
    replied
    I think ultimately I didn't properly flush the system. It's a heat wave in my area, I think I'm going to hand this over to a shop to have it flushed and refilled. I'm going to save myself from heat stroke while working on it.


    It's gotta just be too much oil. Probably mineral oil too.

    Leave a comment:

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