The Detailed E30 R-134a Conversion Thread/DIY

[jeffnhiscars]

Alright so I bought a recharge kit and hooked it up to check the current system pressure, it was at around 60psi at an ambient temperature of 75F according to the chart supplied with the kit that is too high, should be around 45psi. I did some testing. Running at idle the compressor would turn on and off periodically. When running at 3k RPM the compressor would engage and disengage almost immediately. Could this be cause by the system being overcharged, pressure switch immediately trips turning the compressor off. (at least that's how I think it works?) Also when the compressor does engage its pretty loud, makes me think it could be the original and the R-134a isn't playing nice with the lubricant for the compressor.

Ray

If it is cutting out that would be from low pressure since the high pressure cut out is set for 300psi. If someone just put in r134a without flushing changing the oil ( as well the expansion valave and dryer) then yes, in all likelihood your system is fu#@*ed. The one missing detail is your high pressure reading. My suspicion is that your suction side is too high and that your high side will be too low which is a sign that your compressor is not happy.

[TehRaydarlover]

Alright, so new/correct compressor? Is the compressor the only thing incompatible with R-134a? Should probably get a new dryer and pressure switch while I'm at it, pretty corroded.

Thanks for the info!
Ray

[BlackbirdM3]

Alright, so new/correct compressor? Is the compressor the only thing incompatible with R-134a? Should probably get a new dryer and pressure switch while I'm at it, pretty corroded.

Thanks for the info!
Ray

Do you have the right type of condenser considering your compressor is wrong? Also if you open the system up, you always need to replace the dryer.

Has anyone used this stuff http://autorefrigerants.com/co00033.htm ? I'm told it works way better than R134 and won't cause black death of your system. Its also supposedly compatible with R12 systems, but you have to evac everything and possibly change the oil.

Will

[jeffnhiscars]

Alright, so new/correct compressor? Is the compressor the only thing incompatible with R-134a? Should probably get a new dryer and pressure switch while I'm at it, pretty corroded.

Thanks for the info!
Ray

You also have to change your expansion valve since they are specific to the refrigerant you use and assuming your system is not a mess inside you must flush it to clear out crud and mineral oil or you are wasting your effort and $$. I would also encourage you to get a compressor that was designed for r134a rather than one that is compatible (meaning an r12 compressor with r134a compatible seals).

Do you have the right type of condenser considering your compressor is wrong? Also if you open the system up, you always need to replace the dryer.

Has anyone used this stuff http://autorefrigerants.com/co00033.htm ? I'm told it works way better than R134 and won't cause black death of your system. Its also supposedly compatible with R12 systems, but you have to evac everything and possibly change the oil.

Will

Will is right about the dryer and I am intrigued by that alternative refrigerant.

[Luke_M]

The Behr is an old fashioned tube and fin. I got this PF off of Amazon and yes, the pic they show is not a PF but what I received is

http://www.amazon.com/APDI-A-C-Condenser-7013464/dp/B007ZOESL6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1373372389&sr=8-1&keywords=APDI+A%2FC+Condenser+7013464

Ive seen enough pics of these that Im convinced they are all made in the same couple of factories and that they often use stock pics that are not the same as what they sell.

I can confirm that they sell PF condensor's. They have a coupon as well. NEXTORDER10 get's 10% off. You may have to goto their main page to get that discount. carpartkings.com

[nick526]

I can confirm that they sell PF condensor's. They have a coupon as well. NEXTORDER10 get's 10% off. You may have to goto their main page to get that discount. carpartkings.com

x2 got mine last week from them

[Miasma]

I don't have actual numbers yet, But since I finished the install this a/c has performed amazing. It will only get better when I source a proper 134a compressor and make a bracket.

[e30 gangsta]

Quick question I have the seiko seiki compressor on my car. Reading that chart it says the viscosity is 100. So any pag 100 oil will work? Thanks.

[glucklich21]

Yes sir!

[e30 gangsta]

Perfect! Thanks so much for your help. Cant wait to fill her up with 6 oz of oil, and 25 oz of r134a and go from there while checking vent temps. Im excited!

[diesekte]

Nvm found the answer

[702pjc]

What are the wires leads that I need for the new pressure switch?

[cavpilot]

The Behr is an old fashioned tube and fin. I got this PF off of Amazon and yes, the pic they show is not a PF but what I received is

http://www.amazon.com/APDI-A-C-Condenser-7013464/dp/B007ZOESL6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1373372389&sr=8-1&keywords=APDI+A%2FC+Condenser+7013464

Ive seen enough pics of these that Im convinced they are all made in the same couple of factories and that they often use stock pics that are not the same as what they sell.

I just got mine (exact same thing) in the mail today. With the discount it was $75.40 delivered from Car Parts Kings. Hell of a bargain.

[jeffnhiscars]

CPK should be paying me a commission :-)

[MoreMayhem]

I just finished performing this operation on the patient below:



The only problem I encountered was with the pressure switch and the receiver/dryer.

I ordered the pressure switch suggested, part # 64538390971, and the receiver/dryer suggested, part # 64538391025.

This type of pressure switch threads onto the schrader valve (Hank?).

When I took the car to get charged with R-134, everything went fine until the A/C guy says "okay, turn on your A/C". The clutch didn't engage! Rather than pay him to figure it out, we jumped the compressor clutch from the battery and filled the system.

Once I got home I found that by bypassing the pressure switch the clutch would engage. Unthreaded the switch to look at it and didn't hear the little hiss of escaping refrigerant that I expected. That's because the pressure switch could never thread down far enough to engage the pin on the schrader valve. I ended up cutting a 2mm or so thick piece off the head of a finishing nail and gluing it to the pin inside the pressure switch. Now the systems works as it should.

I guess you're probably supposed to remove the schrader valve from the receiver/dryer before putting the pressure switch on. Since the system was already filled, there was no way for me to do that without releasing all the refrigerant.

On another note, replacing the compressor also solved a strange noise I was hearing at idle. Here's the old compressor:



"There's you're problem!"

Lastly, I'd like to thank Glucklich21, AutohausAZ, Google, Youtube...