The Detailed E30 R-134a Conversion Thread/DIY

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  • 2mAn
    replied
    Originally posted by Chilezen

    My shop has a laser machine, I can cut these out for you/anyone that wants to buy them. DM me if interested.

    That’s awesome Kevan!

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  • Chilezen
    replied
    Originally posted by JamesOfCarson
    Adding to this thread as many people come here first (as I did when I started my conversion). I created my own Sanden bracket and released the project files publicly:
    My shop has a laser machine, I can cut these out for you/anyone that wants to buy them. DM me if interested.

    Leave a comment:


  • 510man
    replied
    I went through all 47 pages looking for the common R134 charge by weight. I see 28 oz and 32 oz.

    Seems many are having their system professionally charged. It would be helpful to post those numbers up. Eventually we should be able to narrow down the optimum charge for a converted E30.

    I'm running 26 oz. I haven't experimented with running more. It appears perhaps I should to see if I can get a colder vent temperature.
    Last edited by 510man; 07-21-2025, 09:20 PM.

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  • JamesOfCarson
    replied
    Adding to this thread as many people come here first (as I did when I started my conversion). I created my own Sanden bracket and released the project files publicly: https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/for...for-m20-engine

    Click image for larger version

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  • jht3
    replied
    Update: Mahle dryer from FCP includes the switch o-ring. So does a GPD from Rockauto.

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  • Chilezen
    replied
    Originally posted by jht3
    What size o-ring fits the hi/lo switch port on the 025 dryer? Is there a common part number, four seasons maybe? Probably going to get a dryer from FCP Euro but doesn't appear it includes any o-rings.
    Uhhh I think I remember that one did come with o rings. However, what I also did was buy the variety pack they sell. A sure-fire safe bet to just have all sizes, just in case.

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  • jht3
    replied
    What size o-ring fits the hi/lo switch port on the 025 dryer? Is there a common part number, four seasons maybe? Probably going to get a dryer from FCP Euro but doesn't appear it includes any o-rings.

    If it's in this thread, I missed it

    I retrofitted my M3 years ago, but am about to crack open the system to install a new PF condenser. I have the old 051 dryer installed with two switches but have the new switch on hand to simplify the number of connections. The ID of the switch is about 14mm but don't know how to size o-rings!

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  • prisonerofdoom83
    replied
    So a quick question hopefully someone can chime in . Is the aux condenser fan supposed to turn on with the snowflake button? With an empty system? I know the compressor won’t kick on until I start to fill . Is it the same with the fan? Right now it’s not turning on with no Freon in it . The fan does work I bypassed at the high temp switch . Everything is brand new

    edit never mind I had a bad connection at the evap temp switch . I found this wiring diagram that helped out
    Attached Files
    Last edited by prisonerofdoom83; 07-18-2024, 06:50 PM.

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  • cory58
    replied
    Originally posted by bigglazz
    I am aware this is a Old Post if anyone's out there that can help me how do I go from a 2 pressure switch system to 1 if someone has photos or a can explain to me it would be helpful thank you

    Why do you need to make the change? The two switch set up works fine too.

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  • Chilezen
    replied
    Originally posted by bigglazz
    I am aware this is a Old Post if anyone's out there that can help me how do I go from a 2 pressure switch system to 1 if someone has photos or a can explain to me it would be helpful thank you
    Yes. You need this switch https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...ns-64538390971

    which should be installed on this drier https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...hr-64538391025

    and this cap replaces the filling valve by the hood strut https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...te-64118363260

    Just cut the wires off the old sensor and cut the plug off the new sensor.. and splice the new sensor to the old plug. Some people buy the other half of the new plug and splice that in but.. it's basically the same thing in the end. Also, connect the ends of the other sensor that is no longer in use. Search around the forum for the full instructions. I am pretty sure it's described in this thread too. Start reading. Good luck.

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  • bigglazz
    replied
    I am aware this is a Old Post if anyone's out there that can help me how do I go from a 2 pressure switch system to 1 if someone has photos or a can explain to me it would be helpful thank you

    Leave a comment:


  • ForcedFirebird
    replied
    Originally posted by AmosCake
    Anyone have updates if part number 64538391040 will work for 318is? This replaces 64531381740 respectively. I know in can just get the r134a adapter but since the lines are all old, im planning on doing a full overhaul. Thanks
    The m42 had unique lines to go around the coil packs. They are different in the strut tower area. Also have to pay attention to the hose ends, e30's came with a coupld different compressors.

    You can actually purchase the hose and furreles, get them fitted yourself, then have a hydraulic hose shop crimp them. This way you will also have the benefit of barrier hoses. r134a can actually seep though the r12 hoses.

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  • Chilezen
    replied
    Originally posted by ghrays
    I bought a (NEW) Sanden compressor https://www.acparts.com/product/new-...mpressor-6627/ Model SD5H14 and used LC Wylie's adapter bracket https://lcwylieco.bigcartel.com/prod...ersion-bracket.
    I am really surprised and thrilled that an aftermarket solution like this exists!
    Does the compressor come with oil?

    On behalf of others now and in the future, thanks for biting the bullet and taking the time to do this right and sharing the information.

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  • ghrays
    replied
    After spending considerable sums of time and money, I gave up on buying re-built Denso compressors. They never worked for more than a month before leaking.

    I now have for the first time since i bought the car in 2017, working AC that is not leaking refrigerant.

    I bought a (NEW) Sanden compressor https://www.acparts.com/product/new-...mpressor-6627/ Model SD5H14 and used LC Wylie's adapter bracket https://lcwylieco.bigcartel.com/prod...ersion-bracket. I also had to have two new hoses made (gong to and from the compressor). Installing these with the M20B25 oil cooler pipes in the way was challenging, to say the least. Today it was 80 degrees in San Diego with 75% humidity, the AC vent temp reached 45 degrees, not as good as a modern car but good enough. Everything else is also new, the Nissens parallel flow condenser, a new OEM auxiliary fan, a new Rein evaporator, new ACM blower fan motor, new hoses and lines, and a new 134a expansion valve. A longer fan belt was also required. I also had to replace the body harness plug housing and its three female watertight connectors (61130007442) to the aux fan as there was corrosion inside the female connectors intermittently turning off the aux fan in front of the condenser.

    This has been the most time-consuming and expensive repair yet; it almost drove me insane. I'm happy now.
    Last edited by ghrays; 09-10-2022, 03:51 PM.

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  • ForcedFirebird
    replied
    Originally posted by digger

    Got heater core and valve already but wasn’t sure if I should change the evap preemptively or do a leak test to decide. They are pretty spendy
    Rein is $140 USD. https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...e-crp-ace0056r

    They aren't usually leaking, but will be full of junk and difficult to clean.

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