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The Detailed E30 R-134a Conversion Thread/DIY
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Sorry guys just saw this. You are 100% correct. Was on backwards so I just unbolted and flipped. I have pictures somewhere I will post. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk
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Originally posted by ghrays View Post
I just finally looked at the Nissens condenser, model #94172 that I got from RMEuropean. Unfortunately, one of the three brackets that hold the aux fan to the condenser is upside down, backwards and in the wrong place. I am trying to return it as moving that bracket would be a pain (it is riveted on). It does appear to be a parallel flow design.
Here are pictures both from RMEuropean's website and the next is a picture of the condenser they sent me, you can see the bracket in the lower right on the unit they sent me should instead, be on the lower left as you face the unit.
Looks like they are making internal mistakes at the factory where they make this, since you and i experienced something odd with the mounting brackets. But yes it is parallel flow design, i believe the only manufacturer of PF "direct fit" new condensers for the E30, unless i missed someone.
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Originally posted by doglegleft View PostHoffbrohaus and ghrays is the Nissens AC condenser a good fit? The ADPI is back ordered. I have all other parts lined up. I am planning to order the Nissens, but just want to be sure it's a parallel flow condenser (looks to be from the pictures). I've had good experience with Nissens radiators in the past.
Here are pictures both from RMEuropean's website and the next is a picture of the condenser they sent me, you can see the bracket in the lower right on the unit they sent me should instead, be on the lower left as you face the unit.
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Hoffbrohaus and ghrays is the Nissens AC condenser a good fit? The ADPI is back ordered. I have all other parts lined up. I am planning to order the Nissens, but just want to be sure it's a parallel flow condenser (looks to be from the pictures). I've had good experience with Nissens radiators in the past.
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Originally posted by ghrays View PostI converted my ac to 134a a couple of years ago by installing a shraeder valve adapter on the low pressure line that goes from the compressor through the firewall and eventually to the evaporator. It was never very cold (45 degrees) and the refrigerant leaks out such that it needs replenishment every few months. I bought a sniffer, but i don't see any specific leak point.
I plan of replacing most of the system, I bought a new parallel flow Nissens condenser, a Behr receiver/drier, new ac lines that have R134a compatible rubber (from BMW except #7 (64538391047) the hose between the drier and evaporator, which is NLA, which I found after-market in Germany), and a new r134a expansion valve and new evaporator. I plan on having the compressor rebuilt with r134a compatible seals (it is the original compressor, model 10p15e from Denso, and new ones are NLA).
My question is regarding the hard line high pressure line, 64531381740 (#5 on the OEM drawing), from the drier through the firewall and then to evaporator via #7 and the expansion valve. The R12 version of #5 (64531381740) is still available but has a very short R12 service access valve. The hood hinge passes very close to this fitting. If an R12 to R134a valve adaptor (such as 64118363260) was added, it might not clear the hood hinge mechanism.
The R134a compatible #5 BMW hard line that supercedes 64531381740 is 64538391040, which is listed for the 1990-92 convertibles only, and has a long extension where the high pressure R134a valve is located.
So, should I get a new 64531381740, knowing the R12 valve is not compatible with R134a gauges, or get 64538391040 and hope for the best? I have added some pictures showing the differences between 64531381740 and 64538391040.
64-11-8-363-259
64-11-8-363-260
I got some ebay version of the 259 valve, fits without any problems, and i picked up the 260 valve from BMW dealership since i tried fitting numerous valves and they were all too tall to fit (always interfered with the hood arm).
I am uncertain if they are still available.
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I converted my ac to 134a a couple of years ago by installing a shraeder valve adapter on the low pressure line that goes from the compressor through the firewall and eventually to the evaporator. It was never very cold (45 degrees) and the refrigerant leaks out such that it needs replenishment every few months. I bought a sniffer, but i don't see any specific leak point.
I plan of replacing most of the system, I bought a new parallel flow Nissens condenser, a Behr receiver/drier, new ac lines that have R134a compatible rubber (from BMW except #7 (64538391047) the hose between the drier and evaporator, which is NLA, which I found after-market in Germany), and a new r134a expansion valve and new evaporator. I plan on having the compressor rebuilt with r134a compatible seals (it is the original compressor, model 10p15e from Denso, and new ones are NLA).
My question is regarding the hard line high pressure line, 64531381740 (#5 on the OEM drawing), from the drier through the firewall and then to evaporator via #7 and the expansion valve. The R12 version of #5 (64531381740) is still available but has a very short R12 service access valve. The hood hinge passes very close to this fitting. If an R12 to R134a valve adaptor (such as 64118363260) was added, it might not clear the hood hinge mechanism.
The R134a compatible #5 BMW hard line that supercedes 64531381740 is 64538391040, which is listed for the 1990-92 convertibles only, and has a long extension where the high pressure R134a valve is located.
So, should I get a new 64531381740, knowing the R12 valve is not compatible with R134a gauges, or get 64538391040 and hope for the best? I have added some pictures showing the differences between 64531381740 and 64538391040.
Last edited by ghrays; 05-10-2020, 03:23 PM.
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1990 325ix that had a previous janky 134 conversion, blown compressor, bum fan, cut belt.
I amassed parts for a while and after having them around for a few months I finally pulled the trigger on this job. R&R’d almost everything in the A/C system including all hoses, condenser, gaskets, compressor, E fan and filled the system with redtek R12a. Also took the time to clean up a bunch of rust lurking on my front end and old wiring while it was all apart. Hell of a job but it is blowing cold for the first time since i’ve owned it and the front end is super clean!
Only thing I’ll add is that, my car had already been converted to R134 and came with a (beat up) sanden700 compressor. I got the same compressor to replace it but the factory BMW tube from the expansion valve to the compressor didnt fit it. It comes from the factory size 10 to size 12 fitting on the 325ix at least but the sanden compressor is a size 10 to 10. Had to have w local shop do some custom work for me to get it up and running but seems to be working.
Also, for the sanden700 compressor bracket, you need an 840 length belt. Not the 810 or 825 you hear sometimes, 840 for the sanden bracket (ask how i know).
This was my first time doing AC work and this thread was incredibly helpful. I dont think I could have done it without this info. Really appreciate this being here. I’ll try to post some pictures when I have a chance (r3v has a 2mb file limit and my phone pics are larger).
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Originally posted by ForcedFirebird View Post
It's a pain, but I have been re-sizing pics and uploading directly here for photos I would like to see last.
Where you been mang? glucklich21
I sold the car I used to make the write up back in 2017 on BaT. I still have my S50 cabrio, but it lives in storage these days. If we end up buying a house this year as planned I will bring it home and maybe actually finish her (10 years of project hell).
I did upgrade my Photobucket account tonight so my pics will be back up soon!
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I apologize for the bad pictures. I need to replace or rebuild the compressor on my Touring. Does anyone know which of the E30 compressors is pictured below?
Thanks, Cory
AC Compressor 1 by cory58f5, on Flickr
AC Compressor 2 by cory58f5, on Flickr
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Originally posted by glucklich21 View PostHi R3V, long time no see!
Hmmmmm I get mentions by my username and get emails now? Weird. Yes photobucket is trash, but also there weren’t a whole lot of options back then. I have over 3000 photos hosted with the jerks and that would literally take weeks to sort out. Let me see if I can rehost the photos for this thread on my personal site.
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Yes, the upper one is parallel flow.
The round tubes at each end feed each finned tube crossing the condenser... in parallel.
The black one is "long coil" style and you can trace only one or maybe two very long flow paths through the unit.
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I'm getting ready to do this conversion and bought a Nissens 94172. I can't find any verbiage online confirming it is a parralell flow condenser but it looks like it is to me. Can anyone else confirm? https://www.autohausaz.com/pn/64538391509NISSent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk
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Originally posted by glucklich21 View PostHi R3V, long time no see!
Hmmmmm I get mentions by my username and get emails now? Weird. Yes photobucket is trash, but also there weren’t a whole lot of options back then. I have over 3000 photos hosted with the jerks and that would literally take weeks to sort out. Let me see if I can rehost the photos for this thread on my personal site.
Where you been mang? glucklich21
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Hi R3V, long time no see!
Hmmmmm I get mentions by my username and get emails now? Weird. Yes photobucket is trash, but also there weren’t a whole lot of options back then. I have over 3000 photos hosted with the jerks and that would literally take weeks to sort out. Let me see if I can rehost the photos for this thread on my personal site.
- Likes 1
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