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How To Guide - E36 Steering Rack Swap

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  • dsphil
    replied
    I'm in the process of doing the z3 rack swap. I got a hold of the oe bmw z3 rack, part #1 092 031. not the zf. I notice that this z3 rack doesn't have the notch for the locking plate for the tie rod assembly. Is this suppose to be torqued down or use some other locking plates that I am not aware of?

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  • FLG
    replied
    Hmm not doubting the shop but is it possible they simply were lazy and didn't Wana keep playing with it? It took us just a bit to dial it in perfectly.

    Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2

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  • mccor023
    replied
    Originally posted by FLG View Post
    New outer tie rods?

    Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2
    New inner/ outer. Rebuilt maval, new m3 offset cabs, new st sway w new end links. I could go on, but.

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  • FLG
    replied
    Originally posted by mccor023 View Post
    Thats what I asked for, and shop said they couldnt get it any closer.
    New outer tie rods?

    Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2

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  • mccor023
    replied
    Originally posted by FLG View Post
    I just had my bud zero the toe.

    Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2
    Thats what I asked for, and shop said they couldnt get it any closer.

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  • FLG
    replied
    I just had my bud zero the toe.

    Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2

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  • Northern
    replied
    Should have whatever toe it was aligned to?

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  • mccor023
    replied
    Just curious to see what toe others have gotten post swap and alignment.

    After mine yesterday I am at LF-.14; RF-.15 for total toe .29

    I'm still trying to figure out the math behind my rear toe getting worse from .11 (b/f) and now .14 total toe.

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  • KVF
    replied
    You can pick up correctly sized spacers at Home Depot on the cheap.

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  • e30fromroyalston
    replied
    trying to get set up for a swap. Went to bma.com to try and find the spacers you got and it said they were unavailable. I guess i can just make something up but it would be cool to have them in hand especially at the price you got them for. I plan on using my e30 inner and outer tie rods on the e36 rack as they are in better shape. Great thread by the way!

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  • FLG
    replied
    The knuckle needs to be in the right spot for the bolts to be able to pass thru to tighten the half's in the splines.

    Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2

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  • KVF
    replied
    Originally posted by mccor023 View Post
    What would be the negative to having the knuckle to far down on the rack spline?
    So long as the spline isn't hitting the u-joint, nothing. Some people use that method to avoid having to space the knuckle. My only caution to you would be to leave the knuckle ends loose, until you fully torque the knuckle halves together.

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  • mccor023
    replied
    Originally posted by KVF View Post
    It sure looks like you slide the lower knuckle too far onto the spline... There is a little groove that you should line up with the bolt hole. Did you push it on past the groove to the point of going past the splines on the shaft??

    There is no such groove up top, but be sure you didn't slide up so far that the firewall and upper knuckle ever come in contact.
    What would be the negative to having the knuckle to far down on the rack spline?

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  • Todd Black 88
    replied
    Originally posted by mccor023 View Post
    When mounting you rack to subframe which holes did you use? The original in the back, or the ones towards the front of the car?
    Thanks
    Original

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  • KVF
    replied
    It sure looks like you slide the lower knuckle too far onto the spline... There is a little groove that you should line up with the bolt hole. Did you push it on past the groove to the point of going past the splines on the shaft??

    There is no such groove up top, but be sure you didn't slide up so far that the firewall and upper knuckle ever come in contact.

    Leave a comment:

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