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How To Guide - E36 Steering Rack Swap

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  • e30austin
    replied
    Lots of conflicting info. Just to clear it up, you can use E30 low and hi pressure p/s hoses, they just need to be modified a little?

    Thanks.

    Leave a comment:


  • Steven
    replied
    Has anyone found somewhere to buy the M10 bolts and the two spaces? Seems blunttech and pelican and bma are out of stock?

    Leave a comment:


  • Wanganstyle
    replied
    Originally posted by RobertK View Post
    By Non-Powered do you mean the non electric hydraulic racks?
    the Z4 non-M racks are Manual racks.

    there is no provision for fluid feed or return lines on the rack - It is a sealed unit with a Electric assist motor attached to the steering column.

    so if you install the Z4 non-M rack(very common item, every car is the same just like every z3 non M rack is the same) you will gain:

    A. Manual steering conversion in an e30 without using ancient rare part
    B. modern tie rod ends from e36 are needed
    C. Total angle is increased from standard E30 or even e36 steering rack (this is useful for U turns or 3 point turns, or keeping the race car on the track when going sideways)
    D. Rubber part of steering linkage is deleted;

    E30 setup is:

    1x alumium U joint
    +
    rubber flex coupler
    +
    1x alumium U joint

    Z4 setup is key'ed + telescoping normally but we had it fixed for conversion install.

    Z4 Steel U joint both ends plug right into e30 column and z4 rack.
    +
    metal shaft (shortened to fit the E30 body, welded at local engineering shop)
    +Steel U joint Z4.

    Overall weight is not impacted; and there is one less flexy item in the steering feel. only OEM BMW Z4 parts +e36 tie rod ends used; no aftermarket parts required.

    A E46 M3 steering rack could be used also for increased angle and quicker turning ratio if a powered rack solution is required for the car - My grocery getter daily e36m has a e46M rack installed with power and original e36M steering shaft u joint setup for quicker U turns and better positioning while parking.

    Leave a comment:


  • RobertK
    replied
    Originally posted by Wanganstyle View Post
    If anyone wants an OEM higher angle steering rack with about 3.0 turns lock to lock and BMW Factory NON-POWERED then a Z4 non-M rack is the one to install.

    Helps control a tail happy 24V e30 nicely with the extra angle

    http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=279984
    By Non-Powered do you mean the non electric hydraulic racks?

    Leave a comment:


  • Wanganstyle
    replied
    If anyone wants an OEM higher angle steering rack with about 3.0 turns lock to lock and BMW Factory NON-POWERED then a Z4 non-M rack is the one to install.

    Helps control a tail happy 24V e30 nicely with the extra angle

    Leave a comment:


  • kts
    replied
    Originally posted by Solarian View Post
    If anyone else happens to have a steering knuckle from hell and is struggling to take it off... take off your brake booster! I suffered for weeks, tried everything and the damn thing just wouldn't come off. The brake booster is just in the way blocking your access to the area completely. Took only 15 minutes to take off, and then I gave the knuckle a few quick whacks with an extension and a hammer and it just popped off.
    I've been sidetracked with stuff so my E30 has been sitting there with that damn knuckle laughing at me for weeks now. Thanks for this tip, I think I am going to do this to get some more room to take some whacks at it.

    Leave a comment:


  • Solarian
    replied
    If anyone else happens to have a steering knuckle from hell and is struggling to take it off... take off your brake booster! I suffered for weeks, tried everything and the damn thing just wouldn't come off. The brake booster is just in the way blocking your access to the area completely. Took only 15 minutes to take off, and then I gave the knuckle a few quick whacks with an extension and a hammer and it just popped off.

    Leave a comment:


  • E30_Driftkid
    replied
    Hey how long are the small spacers and how long is the big sapcer that you need to cut in half.

    Leave a comment:


  • naomiswanson
    replied
    Absolutely, you have very good presentation having the complete process for making the E30 car. The complete set up of thiscar would make me excite because this time I am planning to buy E30 car and this forum helps me a lot. I've got all the details.

    Leave a comment:


  • ///M42 sport
    replied
    just did a swap rack swap this weekend. I found the easiest way to get the spline off is to knock it off with a extension ( the knuckle portion that is). THen to get it back on, use a LONG extension and knock it back on from up top of engine bay.

    Leave a comment:


  • Klug
    replied
    Finished up mine today. Ended up using my stock e30 line with mild modification to the rack end of it. I had an e36 line but it was being an absolute pain to bend the ways I needed it to go.

    Rack is good, however I replaced my tie rod ends along with the new rack and eye-balled the alignment on them. Boy oh boy, I need to get this to a shop quick.

    Leave a comment:


  • MattBimmer
    replied
    Rock hammer. Worked like a charm in the confined spaces to give it some force to wiggle on and off without screwing things up terribly.

    Leave a comment:


  • MattBimmer
    replied
    Originally posted by ridingsupreme View Post
    Was my question too stupid? Lol come on humor me please.
    No need to swap line bro. If the lines look good and you think they will do okay they are fine. Hardest part is bending them away from the knuckle and getting the bends to adjust to the new inlet outlets of the rack.
    I used the same hoses and everything worked fine. Then took a large flat head and found pry points to slowly bend the ps hoses to work. Threaded them on and pried a little more to make sure they wouldn't catch the spinning knuckle or anything. Hope that helps.

    Leave a comment:


  • karmatose
    replied
    Originally posted by Klug View Post
    Is there any reason why this DIY suggests to do the rack shaft first rather than the shaft at the firewall? It seems troublesome to get the knuckle over the firewall shaft on after the rack is mounted from previous posts.

    Tackling the rest of my job this weekend, want to see if there is a reason people put it on in this order.

    Thanks!
    I don't think that it really matters which order you do things, but swinging upwards with a hammer to to drive the knuckle onto the column with the rack attached at the bottom was difficult at best. I'd rather pound on the knuc to get it on the column than the rack.

    Leave a comment:


  • moteren_werke
    replied
    Is it kosher to use a round file, and file a slot it the e36 steering rack spline, so the e30 knuckle does not sit so damn high?

    Leave a comment:

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