How To Guide - E36 Steering Rack Swap

[pbk15]

Hey guys, what about the tie rods? Do they fit on a e36 rack?

[HST]

E30 tie rods will fit just fine.

[der affe]

the E36 tie rods will fit just fine too.

[motorsports_3]

I cant find a definative answer. For the Z3 rack, which one is the 2.7, or in turn 2.9 TTL. The 1.9liter, or 2.5 liter? TIA


Edit I think I found it, for people searching in the future. I cant be held responsible for the acccuracy of this

'95 M3 = 3.0 L-L
'96 + = 3.25 L-L
all z3 models = 2.7 L-L
Z3M = 3.25 L-L
non M e36 = 3.25 L-L

[ian e30 318is]

Any idea on how to confirm what rack I have?

I confirmed mine by just attaching a vice and counting how many times the vice rotated around starting from one lock and going to the other lock. It should be 3 rotations for yours.

[87-325ic]

i cant believe i made it to the end of this.

i have just a few questions that have not really been answered.. i dont think.

i have a 95 m3 rack coming, with spacers for the knuckle and rack>subframe.
i have new e30 tie rods, and my car is an 87 cabrio, non airbag.

What lockplates should i use?
and what kind of clearance will i need to grind into the kuckle and where? am i shaving some corners down a little, i would just like to get a better idea before i go into this.

also, as far as going without power steering...
my pump has been making alot of noise lately, and the belts been slipping sometimes too. i think the bearing may be going out. is there any harm to be caused to the rack by a failing belt?
is it possible to just take the belt off on my current e30 rack and see if i like the non power steering? is it going to be much different feeling than with the new rack for comparisons sake?

Thanks for the help.

[87-325ic]

I got my rack on today. I used the 95 m3 rack. This was way easier than i thought. Very straight forward.
here are some useful thoughts

The hardest part is getting the damned steering knuckle off.. If you clean the splines really good while its off, it goes on much easier.

I had to space the knuckle with about 1/2 spacers. And i had to remove a bit of material from the upper u-joint, it still just barely touches when turning, but it doesnt bind and i could not remove much more material with my dremel.

i pulled it off the car and did the grinding.

I used my e30 High Pressure hose, along with the other e30 hoses. everything bolts together.
i bent the e30 hose just a little bit.. i dont think i put it on backwards. but i may have. i dont remember what it was like when i took it off. but now the short side is on the pump and the longer angled side is on the rack. i think thats how it came off.

used e30 tie rods and lock plates. it looks like anything will match here. lockplates, tie rods, boots, etc the e30 boots were a little smaller at the rack, so i had to stretch them onto the e36 rack.

the e30 and 95 m3 rack were about 1/8th inch different lengths. so only about 1/16th inch at each end. not a big deal. ill just drive it straight to the alignment shop.

the steering spline on the m3 rack was about 1/2 inch longer than the e30 one. this is why the spacers and knuckle modification was needed.

the part of the rack that the bolts go through into the subframe was also shorter than the e30s. This is why the spacers are needed on top of the rack. they go on top because there isnt much room to clear the oilpan if they were on bottom. i didnt realize before but there are two tabs the rack bolts to, one on top, one on bottom, for each side.

I also bent the subframe tabs down to drop the rack. i didnt want to mess with doing all that while trying to dodge a floor jack holding up the engine above me. Im glad i went this route. i dont see any real harm done to the tabs this way. just dont bend them back and forth 100 times in a minute and youll be ok.

I cant think of anything else yet.

i also changed my oil and brake master cylinder today too. plus took a few hour break in the middle. so its not that huge of a job. most people should be able to do it in a day.
i also did it all by myself.

[DanMan68]

So I just got a used 98 M3 rack with 90k on it for 150 shipped. Did I get a decent deal? Also anyone know if is it the 3.0 ratio or the 3.25?

[87-325ic]

decent deal.
yep, i know whether it is the 3.0 or 3.25, do you?

[DanMan68]

Care to share your knowledge lol? From what I have read, the 95 m3 is 3.0, but what about the other years? Were they the same as the standard cars after that?

[cobraken]

Yes, I would also like to know because I called BMP to get a 95 M3 rack and I got a 98 M3 rack.

Also when yall are talking about tie rods are yall referring to the inner and outer tie rod?

[1mz]

got my rack on today - from a 96 328i i believe.

I modified the firewall with a carbide bit, but still didn't take off enough for my liking, but due to time constraints, its going to stay as is for a little while. PS delete block, and I kept the e36 tierods. - pictures on my thread within the week.

[dude8383]

Yes, I would also like to know because I called BMP to get a 95 M3 rack and I got a 98 M3 rack.

Also when yall are talking about tie rods are yall referring to the inner and outer tie rod?

Your 98 M3 rack will work. I doubt you will REALLY notice the 3.0 L-L as opposed the 3.25 L-L with the 98 rack.

You may use both inner and outer tie-rods with the rack. I'm not sure if you can mix and match though.

[fpmbw325]

im looking to do this swap, how long does it take if you do it on the floor n how long in a shop

[cobraken]

So are all Z3 Racks 2.7 lock to lock?

It doesnt take to long if thats all your doing. Im doing the work with engine out, makes it very easy.