How To Guide - E36 Steering Rack Swap

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  • ethirtydavid
    R3VLimited
    • Jan 2008
    • 2331

    #376
    you talking about shaving the knuckle down a little bit? I did that before even testing for rubbing - I figured it would only take a second and not a lot needed to come off anyways.

    As far as it goes now, I am only familiar with swapping the e36 racks. I haven't researched the z3 install..

    Comment

    • 87e30
      R3V Elite
      • Jul 2008
      • 5676

      #377
      Oh okay... I just meant that if I put in the e36 rack then I assume it'd be pretty easy to swap it out for a z3 rack in the future. Hopefully I won't be wanting to do that though!
      Originally posted by z31maniac
      I just hate everyone.

      No need for discretion.

      Comment

      • SamE30e
        R3V Elite
        • Sep 2007
        • 4319

        #378
        I just did my rack tonight, not a E36 but this probably applies to it. Might work just for air bag cars.

        Instead of messing with the spline, take the kick panel off and split the steering shaft by undoing the giant 30mm bolt. It is easier to change the spline on the rack with it out of the car then to do it in it. It's also easier to line that spline up then the smaller one.

        Just my .02
        1985 325e 2.8 Turbo VEMS

        Comment

        • Kingb
          E30 Modder
          • Aug 2008
          • 928

          #379
          Ok so my knuckle doesn't look like that at all euro 90 325i. It doesn't curve around it self so I don't see how I can shorten it. Can I shorten a e36 one or how do I do this??
          Originally posted by Nicademus
          My car beats off to that car. :bow:

          Comment

          • themitchster359
            Mod Crazy
            • Dec 2007
            • 654

            #380
            I just got my rack done last night. my old e30 rack was sooo fucked for the longest time. I had a buddy help me for sure - I don't really think it too possible without one.

            The install was straight forward, thanks to the OP for the diy and rack that he sold me. It works and looks amazing! The car with the new tie-rods and e36 rack, it feels alot tighter and way more responsive.

            The only issue that I really had was the knuckle, I still have a little binding, but not bad. I just need to go in there a dremel out alittle bit!

            89 Alpine White e30 325i

            Comment

            • mars
              Noobie
              • Nov 2008
              • 28

              #381
              I need some help.

              I started this swap today because my rack was shot. I got to the steering knuckle and I'm having some problems so I have some questions.

              I'm trying to shorten the rack and I'm trying to use the 7/16 bolt and the 7/16 nut (this guy Nut: 72111977925, is this the correct nut for the knuckle?) The problem I'm having is that the 7/16 bolt doesn't fit through the hole in one of the pieces of the knuckle (fits in the top piece, but not the bottom piece), and also doesn't fit through the spacer. Am I doing this part right?

              I also can't figure out what these parts are used for:
              Bolt M10x50 - - - - - - - - - 26111226737 - - - - x2
              Self Locking Nuts - - - - - - 07129964672 - - - - x2
              Self Locking Nuts - - - - - - 07129922716 - - - - -x4

              Comment

              • SkinnyVT
                Grease Monkey
                • Nov 2008
                • 391

                #382
                I used a M10x50 for the knuckle. Not sure why the OP said 7/16, personally I try to keep all the hardware on the car metric.
                sigpic
                '86.5 325eis Track Ho | '08 128i DD | '04 Silverado Tow Vehicle

                Comment

                • themitchster359
                  Mod Crazy
                  • Dec 2007
                  • 654

                  #383
                  i drilled mine out. then bolted it all up.

                  89 Alpine White e30 325i

                  Comment

                  • Aptyp
                    R3V OG
                    • Feb 2008
                    • 6584

                    #384
                    Originally posted by SkinnyVT
                    I used a M10x50 for the knuckle. Not sure why the OP said 7/16, personally I try to keep all the hardware on the car metric.
                    because 7/16 are an incredibly good fit without drilling

                    Comment

                    • mars
                      Noobie
                      • Nov 2008
                      • 28

                      #385
                      Originally posted by themitchster359
                      i drilled mine out. then bolted it all up.
                      you mean you drilled out the small holes on the top knuckle part to fit the 7/16 bolt? I was thinking about doing that, was just worried about the consequences of drilling the hole bigger.

                      Comment

                      • CoryE30
                        Member
                        • Jan 2006
                        • 43

                        #386
                        I'm in the middle of swapping in a Z3 rack. I'm replacing my tie rods since they're shot, but did everyone reuse the locking plates at the inner tie rod?

                        Comment

                        • SkinnyVT
                          Grease Monkey
                          • Nov 2008
                          • 391

                          #387
                          Originally posted by CoryE30
                          I'm in the middle of swapping in a Z3 rack. I'm replacing my tie rods since they're shot, but did everyone reuse the locking plates at the inner tie rod?
                          If you have the time to spare to order some then do that, but if you need to be able to drive the car now then just reuse them.
                          sigpic
                          '86.5 325eis Track Ho | '08 128i DD | '04 Silverado Tow Vehicle

                          Comment

                          • CoryE30
                            Member
                            • Jan 2006
                            • 43

                            #388
                            Ok, it looks as if the Z3 rack I have does not have a notch for the locking plate on the OD or ID. I've attached a picture which shows the inner tie rod placement. Real-Oem shows no locking plate for the Z3's 2.8 or 3.0, but the M version has one. Has anyone run into this, what did you use? What does the Z3 2.8 use? Any help would be appreciated.
                            Attached Files

                            Comment

                            • Fast Frankie
                              Grease Monkey
                              • Apr 2009
                              • 336

                              #389
                              Originally posted by ethirtydavid
                              I just did it a couple weeks back, very straight forward. I am running no PS, so I bought one of those aluminum delete blocks - works great. ....

                              Can you provide a little more information on this? I'm my own power steering so I'm interested in the best way to seal off the system and completely delete the PS.

                              Any help?

                              Build, break, repair, repeat.
                              91 300zx TT
                              03 540i Msport
                              91 318is track
                              89 Isuzu Imark/lotus 24hr Lemons car

                              Originally posted by george graves
                              R3v is a very different kind of forum - don't come here with your bull shit - we'll actually take the time to call you on it.

                              Comment

                              • tjts1
                                E30 Mastermind
                                • May 2007
                                • 1851

                                #390
                                Take a small piece of 3/8" ID hose, stick it on the banjo bolts then reinstall the bolts. Free and effective. Just make sure to first drain the oil out of the rack.

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