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Which Tie Rod Puller?

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  • F34R
    replied
    Been using one for 16 years, and my Uncle before me over 30 years. It just gets the job done, even more so if you use some Never Seez on the inner hole and sleeve.
    Attached Files
    Last edited by F34R; 12-04-2011, 08:30 PM.

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  • Axxe
    replied
    The key to the hammer method is to use two hammers: one ball peen, one 4lb mini sledge. Line up the flat end of the ball peen hammer on your target (the knuckle where the tapered ball joint or tie rod passes through), and a couple good, sharp whacks from the mini sledge on the rounded part and all should come apart. Also, do NOT under any circumstance put any sort of lubricant (never seize or grease, penetrating oil to seperate is OK but unnecessary if you use the two hammer method) on the taper, it is designed to create solid connection when placed under tension with the nut, and lubricating it increases the likely hood of not torquing it enough to get the two surfaces to mate perfectly, which causes it to loosen and potentially oval the hole.

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  • long tall eta
    replied
    well, here's my tie rod replacement story. it started last weds morning, the 1st of my 2 days off. having something to do thurs. i needed to do it weds. anyone living in south jersey knows that last weds was heavy rain all day and had to do it in the drive way. wheels off, calipers off, rotors off. loosen splash shields. removed the locking nuts from tie rods and tried the hamer. no luck, hamer not heavy enough. broke out the pickle fork tie rod remover and drivers side still gave me fits but eventually popped off. passanger side popped right out. hardest part for me was bending back the lock plate tabs to remove the rods from the rack. had to really bug them up but eventually got em up. all the while water dripping in my face, ear canal, eyes, grrrr. layed the new rods out next to the old ones and adjusted them to the same lengths. installed in reverse fashion and car drives straight as an arrow. no drift at any speed. guys, it would of made a great funniest home video clip. raining cats and dogs, me, soaking wet, having to roll over every 5 minutes to hit my right ear cause my left was full of water. the next day, the neighbors all said they where peeping out their windows laughing their asses off. f..king pricks. lol. any way, back on the road.

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  • accident
    replied
    Another vote for hammer. Preferably sledge.

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  • Rigmaster
    replied
    +1 on using a hammer.

    Doesn't necessarily even have to be a 4 or 8 lb hammer- if you use a good size ball pein hammer and put some force behind it, you'll be able to get any E30 tie rod loose.


    I have yet to see a puller that does a more effective job than a hammer, and I've dropped lots of these in my time.

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  • khalild
    replied
    Originally posted by immajackuup View Post


    60 bucks front end service. pickle fork suck because it can damage ball joint boot real easy.
    Got that whole kit from Harbor Freight for $5. I'm winning lol.

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  • bme30
    replied
    :up:

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  • BMWManiac
    replied
    I want to thank you all and advise others that ALL YOU NEED IS A 4 LB HAMMER TO DO THE JOB!!! The ball joint fell out on its own within 4 - 5 good hits....not even full swings, just contact. I'm going to return the $70 set to harbor freight that I bought.

    Now, to get the threaded collar off the strut and get my passenger side tie rod off..

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  • immajackuup
    replied


    60 bucks front end service. pickle fork suck because it can damage ball joint boot real easy.

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  • Brandon12V
    replied
    I use an 8lb Jackson sledge and pickle fork but majority of the time I don't even need the fork. just compress the strut by placing a jack underneath the spindle. loosen the fastening nut and hammer on the stud. should break loose and you can pull it out by hand. don't worry about mangling the nut as you're suppose to replace it everytime the tie rod comes off. I've never ripped a boot that wasn't already ripped.

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  • GDA
    replied
    Get this kit and you will not have problems with pretty much any front end work; especially on most Euro cars...



    You can score the kit for less than a $100 if you watch for deals and promo's.

    We've used my set on over a dozen front end rebuilds on BMWs, a couple Volvos and two LR Disco steering linkage rebuilds. Great kit and very versatile.

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  • bme30
    replied
    Originally posted by Alexis Jung View Post
    Well, all of these tools/videos, etc, show just removing the tie rods and I didn't have any trouble removing those from the spindle....it's the control arm ball joint that I can't get to budge....I'm going to buy a small sledge and git it a couple whacks, but I'm doubtful it will work.
    Go get one and hit them precisely, i did and got them all done. :up:
    PS: Do not hit the "male" part of the joint, hit the "female" part of the knuckle arm.

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  • bme30
    replied
    Originally posted by iamcreepingdeath View Post
    ^^ that's BS. I do that every time, and it is not that easy.
    I had the same stubborn ball joints, and was very skeptical about this trick, but i tried a few whack with 4lb sledge hammer and succeed on both tie rod ends and control arms ball joints.

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  • BMWManiac
    replied
    Well, all of these tools/videos, etc, show just removing the tie rods and I didn't have any trouble removing those from the spindle....it's the control arm ball joint that I can't get to budge....I'm going to buy a small sledge and git it a couple whacks, but I'm doubtful it will work.

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  • iamsam
    replied
    ^^ that's BS. I do that every time, and it is not that easy.

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