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Which Tie Rod Puller?

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  • jeffnhiscars
    replied
    Originally posted by cory58 View Post
    Yes - I too have broken one of those in the past. Wrote it off to user error (which I'm sure was not the case with you!). I was a little concerned this time, since the Touring is crunchy underneath and age of the tie rods was unknown, but they popped right out with only moderate pressure.

    Can't beat the HF price, but if this one breaks without extreme force I'll be replacing it with a better quality version.

    Cory
    There are enough variables that impact how tight ball joints get that it's hard to say user error. When I broke mine I just kept tightening it thinking the joint would eventually let go. Maybe I should have hit it with a hammer while under stress or put some heat to the CA.

    Leave a comment:


  • cory58
    replied
    Originally posted by jeffnhiscars View Post
    I snapped that separator :)
    Yes - I too have broken one of those in the past. Wrote it off to user error (which I'm sure was not the case with you!). I was a little concerned this time, since the Touring is crunchy underneath and age of the tie rods was unknown, but they popped right out with only moderate pressure.

    Can't beat the HF price, but if this one breaks without extreme force I'll be replacing it with a better quality version.

    Cory

    Leave a comment:


  • jeffnhiscars
    replied
    I snapped that separator :)

    Leave a comment:


  • cory58
    replied
    Just replaced the tie rods on my Touring after it failed inspection. Since Photobucket F'd the entire web and all the pictures are gone from this thread, here are the tools I used for the job.

    Tie rod tools by cory58f5, on Flickr

    The tie rod separator came from Harbor Freight. I got the inner tie rod tool from Auto Zone ($19.99). Bav Auto has it for $16.95. These two tools made the job super easy.

    I got the Oetiker clamp tool from Amazon, but it's just a luxury and not necessary, unless you want an OEM look with Oetiker clamps on the boots. Tie wraps work fine.

    Cory

    Leave a comment:


  • Gerta
    replied
    Cory ... I used that plus a pickle fork for mine. I didnt care if I tore the boot because they were not being reused.

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  • cory58
    replied
    Originally posted by redhatpat View Post
    I've had good luck with this style ball joint puller and it was cheap, ~$15:


    I think this style would work better, but I couldn't find one for a reasonable price locally:
    Just did my tie rods with a tool like this. Broke loose in about 15 seconds. I got the tool at Harbor Feight for cheap.

    Cory

    Leave a comment:


  • long tall eta
    replied
    Originally posted by codyep3 View Post
    Bump, I am not having a problem with the ball joint, but where it connects to the rack. I have wrench on it and can't budge it. I have soaked it with PB and moved the little metal collar. Anyone?
    get it done? i had to use curved jaw vice grips and a make shift cheater bar. needed the extra leverage. wrap a shop towel around the tie rod then clamp down the vice grips, slide the bar over the handle and tourque that puppy off.

    Leave a comment:


  • Mr. Tasty
    replied
    Bump, I am not having a problem with the ball joint, but where it connects to the rack. I have wrench on it and can't budge it. I have soaked it with PB and moved the little metal collar. Anyone?

    Leave a comment:


  • b*saint
    replied
    Originally posted by Axxe View Post
    This is why I heart my flat hammer attachment on my air chisel. 30 seconds on the flange and it pops right out, no need to damage the ball joint. But if the arm is going in the scrap and is stuck, pickle fork attachment on the air chisel is super effective.
    I have the same attachment!

    But I find on some makes, it marrs the boss of the ball joints really bad.

    Leave a comment:


  • Axxe
    replied
    Originally posted by b*saint View Post
    I use all the tricks depending on the least damage. Sometimes you can't swing a hammer to get to some ball joints and you have to use a fork on the end of a air hammer. Other times you have to use a bj press.
    This is why I heart my flat hammer attachment on my air chisel. 30 seconds on the flange and it pops right out, no need to damage the ball joint. But if the arm is going in the scrap and is stuck, pickle fork attachment on the air chisel is super effective.

    Leave a comment:


  • b*saint
    replied
    I use all the tricks depending on the least damage. Sometimes you can't swing a hammer to get to some ball joints and you have to use a fork on the end of a air hammer. Other times you have to use a bj press.

    Leave a comment:


  • mikeedler
    replied
    Originally posted by Alexis Jung View Post
    Umm.....there are no ball joints on a bradley, and I don't think a pickle fork is even part of the BII?
    good thing we have posts like this.........

    Leave a comment:


  • pantelones
    replied
    I just did this last night so I figure I would give my .02 Mini sledge and a 1/2" diameter punch worked like a charm. Fuck using a fork, I tore the boot on the left side and I still couldn’t get it to go smoothly. I then used a hammer and punch, it only took 3 whacks and nothing got damaged.

    Leave a comment:


  • BMWManiac
    replied
    Originally posted by mikeedler View Post
    a pickle fork is great, but totally unnecessary for a small euro car. plus you will kill the boot! a decent sized hammer is all you need. I didn't even use a pickle fork on Bradley tracked vehicles, a good sledge hammer is 10 times easier!
    Umm.....there are no ball joints on a bradley, and I don't think a pickle fork is even part of the BII?

    Leave a comment:


  • mikeedler
    replied
    a pickle fork is great, but totally unnecessary for a small euro car. plus you will kill the boot! a decent sized hammer is all you need. I didn't even use a pickle fork on Bradley tracked vehicles, a good sledge hammer is 10 times easier!

    Leave a comment:

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