Which Tie Rod Puller?

[StereoInstaller1]

Another thing is the style of whacking. You are better off hitting with a "pop" rather than a "thunk"...so not follow through, see?

It is also easier if you start off with a pry bar (and someone else prying) between the ball joint and the subframe/control arm to apply some tension on it before you hit it. If you do this, PUT THE NUT BACK ON a few threads, otherwise, that sucker is gonna fly.

Luke

[Rocla]

but it does not really give me enough comfortable clearence without the fear of hitting the body.

or your hitting the wrong place.

[Jscotty]

The only thing that I don't like about hammering it out is that I can't get enough of a backswing to really hit that thing like I want to. Turning the wheel all the way to one side helps but it does not really give me enough comfortable clearence without the fear of hitting the body.

[Rocla]

word. you have to whack the strut housing a couple of times before hitting the tie rod.

Instead, not before.

[rThor432]

I just use penetrating oil and a hammer. Replaced a bent tie rod the other day no problem. The hammer wasnt really necessary, but I dont care.

What day at the shop would be complete without the hammer making at least one appearance?

[JK_E30]

I'd prefer not to destroy the boots on the ends.

Guess I got it easy, my boots were already destroyed when I replaced mine lol.

[golde30]

I think this style would work better, but I couldn't find one for a reasonable price locally:

i use one like this also, but a lil bit different. i LOVE having this tool, makes pulling the front strut job 1/2 the time.

[skota]

free tool rental

If you have a checker autoparts near you, they rent tools for free. They have several different pulling tools.

[PeaveyBassist]

the trick is not to hit the tie-rod, but you strike the strut housing right by the tie rod end. shouldnt take more than a wack or 2. if it takes longer, your hammer is 2 small, or your hitting the wrong place.

True Story. Also... if that doesnt get it out you can put the nut on top so the top of the stud and the nut are flush with eachother then hit on that. Usually hitting the strut works though...

Will

[nando]

the trick is not to hit the tie-rod, but you strike the strut housing right by the tie rod end. shouldnt take more than a wack or 2. if it takes longer, your hammer is 2 small, or your hitting the wrong place.

or sometimes it just gets stuck and I can hammer on it all day and it won't pop loose. ~$30 isn't bad for a tool that will save me time and effort.

[Beej '86 325es]

I've had good luck with this style ball joint puller and it was cheap, ~$15:


I think this style would work better, but I couldn't find one for a reasonable price locally:

I bought the one from Bav Auto like the 1st one pictured there. It's supposively for all BMWs but it didn't fit for shit.

I ended up renting a tie rod puller kit from Advance Auto, and used the tool like the 2nd one pictured there. It tore up the boot, and I bent the bolt a little on the tool, but it got it out! But damn, beware of projectiles!

[KenC]

the trick is not to hit the tie-rod, but you strike the strut housing right by the tie rod end. shouldnt take more than a wack or 2. if it takes longer, your hammer is 2 small, or your hitting the wrong place.

word. you have to whack the strut housing a couple of times before hitting the tie rod.

[mikeedler]

the trick is not to hit the tie-rod, but you strike the strut housing right by the tie rod end. shouldnt take more than a wack or 2. if it takes longer, your hammer is 2 small, or your hitting the wrong place.

[nando]

I'm sick of wacking them with a hammer, so I got the one from bavauto.. I'm not sure how much it was, but if it will save 30-40+ minutes of hammering and cussing every time I have to work on the front end, it's worth it.

[Zoso]

Mine weren't that stuck... I was replacing mine anyways so I didn't care if I destroyed them.. but I think I could have gotten mine off by leaving the nut at the top of the bolt and tapping downward on the nut.