Shift Lever and Short Shifters

[tonytony]

i see, how much was the ssk from ebay?

[robspeed325i]

How is that blue anodized piece secured into the "console" or "shift lever carrier" looks like it's just kept in there with O-rings?

It comes with a snap ring that installs from the bottom, holding it into the carrier.

[tonytony]

okay here it is:

http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=125397

just copying what i wrote in the other thread...

It is a B&M style "race" shifter meaning it has the blue anodized "ERK" thing that raises the pivot ball (thats the B&M part) and no rubber isolator in the shifter itself (the "race") part.

Seems decent enough if you were indeed going to use it in a race car like it is, but I only purchased it for the anodized riser piece, and plan to use a Z4 or X5 3.0 shifter in place of the solid ebay shifter. HOPEFULLY the pivot balls are the same size.

This one, if i installed it, would rattle and vibrate like hell since there is a definite gap between the shifter and pivot ball itself (they are a two-piece assembly). for a true race car probably nobody would care, and the rattling is probably fixable with a thin bushing or washer between the circlip and pivot ball, OR by taking it apart, smearing some epoxy on the shifter shaft, then putting the pivot ball back on it.

The pivot ball is nice and tight in the riser "cup" thing itself, and HOPEFULLY its the same size or close enough to the BMW sized balls (HEH :P)

ive since been informed that the pivot ball *is* the same size as the BMW shifter ball/s, so now I just need to find me a CHEAP z3 //M shifter...

How is that blue anodized piece secured into the "console" or "shift lever carrier" looks like it's just kept in there with O-rings?

[rThor432]

I just need to find me a CHEAP z3 //M shifter...

$50 at the BMW dealership. Look on the first page of this thread for the part number. It will end in ...254. I've had them in 3 of my cars and it is the perfect shifter in my opinion, especially for the money.

[robspeed325i]

i just bought a $36 (shipped) b&m style solid shifter off ebay. B&M style meaning, it has the machined UUC ERK style insert that fits in the stock shift platform (late cast aluminum style, what many refer to as the "console").

Anyway, once it arrives and I get it in, I'll report on its feel, etc. 95% of the reason why i bought it was to get the pivot-raising "ERK" thing, without paying UUC prices.

okay here it is:

http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=125397

just copying what i wrote in the other thread...

It is a B&M style "race" shifter meaning it has the blue anodized "ERK" thing that raises the pivot ball (thats the B&M part) and no rubber isolator in the shifter itself (the "race") part.

Seems decent enough if you were indeed going to use it in a race car like it is, but I only purchased it for the anodized riser piece, and plan to use a Z4 or X5 3.0 shifter in place of the solid ebay shifter. HOPEFULLY the pivot balls are the same size.

This one, if i installed it, would rattle and vibrate like hell since there is a definite gap between the shifter and pivot ball itself (they are a two-piece assembly). for a true race car probably nobody would care, and the rattling is probably fixable with a thin bushing or washer between the circlip and pivot ball, OR by taking it apart, smearing some epoxy on the shifter shaft, then putting the pivot ball back on it.

The pivot ball is nice and tight in the riser "cup" thing itself, and HOPEFULLY its the same size or close enough to the BMW sized balls (HEH :P)

ive since been informed that the pivot ball *is* the same size as the BMW shifter ball/s, so now I just need to find me a CHEAP z3 //M shifter...

[robspeed325i]

i just bought a $36 (shipped) b&m style solid shifter off ebay. B&M style meaning, it has the machined UUC ERK style insert that fits in the stock shift platform (late cast aluminum style, what many refer to as the "console").

Anyway, once it arrives and I get it in, I'll report on its feel, etc. 95% of the reason why i bought it was to get the pivot-raising "ERK" thing, without paying UUC prices.

[Kristeun]

Some shift levers already have these bushings built in. If any material sticks out beyond the metal of the base, then it has them built in.


It will go on all the way and should be a tight fit (you dont want it to move around and create slop). You will be able to turn it though.

Ahh I see.

But so the circlip being on not all the way can make the shifter more sloppy? I sort of assumed they just either hold the selector rod in place or don't.

Because strangely when I first installed the kit and went for a quick drive the throws were super short and direct. After though I disconnected the selector rod again trying to get the rings on and it just never felt the same after reconnecting it, so maybe its because I got the circlip on right the first time. Throws are just a bit less short than stock but it is still very direct and firm.

Sorry for being a total noob.

[SamE30e]

I just installed a Z3 1.9 shifter, amazing feeling, notchy and short. It could use a bend to the right, on hard shifts to second it's easy to get caught up in the spring for reverse.

[rThor432]

First problem is it seems like there's no way I could put on the circlip onto the selector rod if I use one of those yellow spacer rings, and in the instructions I was following it says I have to use 2 :letitout: (1 on each side). The shift rod's ends don't stick out far enough for the circlip to attach with the rings. ??? And I never found the original rings either. Should I just not use them?

Some shift levers already have these bushings built in. If any material sticks out beyond the metal of the base, then it has them built in.

Also, the circlip doesn't seem to slide on completely, but maybe halfway. I tried prying it open a little but same thing. You should be able to turn it once its installed right?

It will go on all the way and should be a tight fit (you dont want it to move around and create slop). You will be able to turn it though.

And do I have to replace the circlip/rings on the other side of the selector rod as well (front of car)? Looks really hard to reach and if so I think I'm just gonna take it to a shop.

That's up to you. I wouldnt take it to a shop if you are already in that deep.

I recently put a Z3M shifter in my 318is. The linkage felt good before, so I didnt replace any of the bushings. It feels much better than my 325es. I replaced all of the bushings in the 325es, and with the same Z3M shifter, it is a bit more notchy than I'd like.

[NOMAD]

I'll be doing this during the week. Hopefully it goes smoothly.

[Kristeun]

Bump. Anyone?

[Kristeun]

Well I thought I'd give it a try today (even though I didn't know jack shit about it) since I already had the car on jackstands and of course it all didn't go too smooth.

First problem is it seems like there's no way I could put on the circlip onto the selector rod if I use one of those yellow spacer rings, and in the instructions I was following it says I have to use 2 :letitout: (1 on each side). The shift rod's ends don't stick out far enough for the circlip to attach with the rings. ??? And I never found the original rings either. Should I just not use them?

Also, the circlip doesn't seem to slide on completely, but maybe halfway. I tried prying it open a little but same thing. You should be able to turn it once its installed right?

And do I have to replace the circlip/rings on the other side of the selector rod as well (front of car)? Looks really hard to reach and if so I think I'm just gonna take it to a shop.

[asubimmer]

you need to get under the car. but you don't need a lot of room

[Kristeun]

Got my Z4 2.5 kit from BMA today. So to install am I going to have to jack up the car or can I do it all from inside? I won't have access to a lift till Saturday and would like to install it tonight.

[bioman]

Remove 3 bolts, remove balancer, reinstall.

Anyone actually remove the harmonic balancer on a 325e? I'm having a hard time.

My problem: http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=123314