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    #76
    lever: M Roadster
    car: 87 325ic

    I actually bought this off a friend and he offered to install it for me... so I don't have much to say about the install, except that it was fairly straight-forward. Neither the lever nor the selector shaft needed bending. However I did remove my vibration dampener prior to the install. The throw is much shorter and notchier now. It clicks in and out of gear. The SSK made the car way more fun to drive (as could be expected :P )

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      #77
      Just got my 5 speed in the car, and while i haven't tried it on the road, its nice. The Z3 2.5/3.0 lever i used is kickass. Not really low, not high. I didn't want a z4 lever because i didnt want to reach down to the floor to shift :P . It's notchy, but not too notchy, plus all the bushings, etc are new. There is also that "two gate" feeling, push into gear then click into the actual gear to engage it.

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        #78
        hey everyone. i'm new to the forum, and i hate making my first post a question, but can you guys help me out? i really would like to put a short shifter in my car, but i was wondering if it will work as it has for the rest of you. i have an '85 325e, and from what i've seen on the internet, most ssk's for e30's only fit those after 6/86. what's the deal with this and will this upgrade fit my year?
        1985 325e - 5000 RPM's of Fury

        Comment


          #79
          Re: How to Rebuild a Sheet-Metal Console Shifter Mechanism

          Originally posted by kencopperwheat
          How to Rebuild a Sheet-Metal Console Shifter Mechanism

          Everybody with a sheet-metal console should thank Bill for this one:



          Okay. In terms of console bushings, there are three. In the diagram above, they are parts 1 and 7. I'd also get a couple of 2's, as they come with locking material on them (and are known to back out of the transmission). It can't hurt to get a couple 8's and 9's either, as they are easy to lose and the clips are easy to break. If you wanna go crazy (I didn't), 14 is a rubber washer that wears out over time.

          1: 25 11 1 208 580 (2)
          2: 25 11 1 205 659 (2)
          7: 25 11 1 204 422 (1)
          8: 25 11 1 209 078 (4)
          9: 25 11 1 220 379 (2)
          14: 23 41 1 466 118 (1)




          For the shift lever, you really don't need any parts. You can reuse ones off of your old shifter, but you have to grind down the metal ball and it's a pain in the ass. For as cheap as the parts are, I'd just get new ones. Here's the list for stuff to replace in the two pics above:

          Upper Diagram:
          4: 25 11 1 207 744 (1)
          8: 23 41 1 200 844(1)
          12: 23 41 1 466 112 (1)
          Lower Diagram:
          4: 23 41 1 466 110 (1)

          I just order by part number from BMA.

          For installation, you're going to have to file down the inner rim of the upper ball cup to slide it down over the Z4 lever.
          I just ordered all of these parts, and Jordan and I are installing it all this coming weekend. I'll let you all know how it turns out.

          Comment


            #80
            so how do you know if you have the sheet metal console? does it depend on year and model or what?
            1985 325e - 5000 RPM's of Fury

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              #81
              Originally posted by Drewe30e
              so how do you know if you have the sheet metal console? does it depend on year and model or what?
              I believe so. I don't know the exact date when they switched to the aluminum consoles, but my 86 has the sheet metal and my 87 has the newer aluminum style. Your 85 should have the sheet metal console.

              Comment


                #82
                Originally posted by btm4k
                Originally posted by Drewe30e
                so how do you know if you have the sheet metal console? does it depend on year and model or what?
                I believe so. I don't know the exact date when they switched to the aluminum consoles, but my 86 has the sheet metal and my 87 has the newer aluminum style. Your 85 should have the sheet metal console.
                yeah, i finally found out that i have the sheet metal console. have you replaced the shifter in your 86? if so, how hard was it?

                i'm still contemplating whether to get the 2.5 or 3.0 z4 shifter. choices choices
                1985 325e - 5000 RPM's of Fury

                Comment


                  #83
                  Originally posted by Drewe30e
                  Originally posted by btm4k
                  Originally posted by Drewe30e
                  so how do you know if you have the sheet metal console? does it depend on year and model or what?
                  I believe so. I don't know the exact date when they switched to the aluminum consoles, but my 86 has the sheet metal and my 87 has the newer aluminum style. Your 85 should have the sheet metal console.
                  yeah, i finally found out that i have the sheet metal console. have you replaced the shifter in your 86? if so, how hard was it?

                  i'm still contemplating whether to get the 2.5 or 3.0 z4 shifter. choices choices
                  Nope, ask Ken :P

                  Comment


                    #84
                    ok, i think i've finally decided on getting the z4 2.5 shifter. and to anyone who has done a sheet metal installation, do we need all the parts from above? more or less?
                    1985 325e - 5000 RPM's of Fury

                    Comment


                      #85
                      Originally posted by Drewe30e
                      ok, i think i've finally decided on getting the z4 2.5 shifter. and to anyone who has done a sheet metal installation, do we need all the parts from above? more or less?
                      Read the thread; its on the first page.

                      Comment


                        #86
                        Re: How to Rebuild a Sheet-Metal Console Shifter Mechanism

                        Originally posted by Eurospeed88
                        Originally posted by kencopperwheat
                        How to Rebuild a Sheet-Metal Console Shifter Mechanism

                        Everybody with a sheet-metal console should thank Bill for this one:



                        Okay. In terms of console bushings, there are three. In the diagram above, they are parts 1 and 7. I'd also get a couple of 2's, as they come with locking material on them (and are known to back out of the transmission). It can't hurt to get a couple 8's and 9's either, as they are easy to lose and the clips are easy to break. If you wanna go crazy (I didn't), 14 is a rubber washer that wears out over time.

                        1: 25 11 1 208 580 (2)
                        2: 25 11 1 205 659 (2)
                        7: 25 11 1 204 422 (1)
                        8: 25 11 1 209 078 (4)
                        9: 25 11 1 220 379 (2)
                        14: 23 41 1 466 118 (1)




                        For the shift lever, you really don't need any parts. You can reuse ones off of your old shifter, but you have to grind down the metal ball and it's a pain in the ass. For as cheap as the parts are, I'd just get new ones. Here's the list for stuff to replace in the two pics above:

                        Upper Diagram:
                        4: 25 11 1 207 744 (1)
                        8: 23 41 1 200 844(1)
                        12: 23 41 1 466 112 (1)
                        Lower Diagram:
                        4: 23 41 1 466 110 (1)

                        I just order by part number from BMA.

                        For installation, you're going to have to file down the inner rim of the upper ball cup to slide it down over the Z4 lever.
                        I just ordered all of these parts, and Jordan and I are installing it all this coming weekend. I'll let you all know how it turns out.
                        Jordan and I replaced all the parts listed this weekend, and it came out GREAT. Shift slop is completely gone, no resistance going into any gear (it was getting hard to go into reverse), and everything is super-tight now. Of just about every part listed that we replaced, the originals were completely wasted.

                        And for those of you that have the sheet metal console, fear not. It's not some flimsy peice of sheet metal like you might think, it's a considerably thick panel. It's quite beefy, and there's no flex to it at all. In my opinion, it looks to be a very stout unit, and a better one to have than the slim, easily breakable aluminum shift carrier. But that's just my opinion.

                        Comment


                          #87
                          Re: How to Rebuild a Sheet-Metal Console Shifter Mechanism

                          sounds great man. i'm looking forward to doing this myself. for some reason i have not called bma yet :?
                          1985 325e - 5000 RPM's of Fury

                          Comment


                            #88
                            by the way Eurospeed88, did you use the 2.5 or 3.0 z4 shifter?
                            1985 325e - 5000 RPM's of Fury

                            Comment


                              #89
                              Originally posted by Drewe30e
                              by the way Eurospeed88, did you use the 2.5 or 3.0 z4 shifter?
                              Z3 1.9
                              Originally posted by Gruelius
                              and i do not know what bugg brakes are.

                              Comment


                                #90
                                Originally posted by kencopperwheat
                                Originally posted by Drewe30e
                                by the way Eurospeed88, did you use the 2.5 or 3.0 z4 shifter?
                                Z3 1.9
                                Thanks, I think I may have a problem with reading previous posts. I'll try to fix that.
                                1985 325e - 5000 RPM's of Fury

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