Engine Push Start Button Install

[Bread]

Hmm, well, thats not entirely true believe it or not. I agree that all scotch locs should be deposited in the nearest trash can, word is these days is best connection comes from a proper mechanical crimp+silicone or adhesive lined heatshrink.

The "best" connection is entirely dependant on the person doing the work. A Crimp connection can work very good if done properly. I use them for terminal ends such as ring and spade terminals all the time. There's really no other choice in those situations. But as you said, they must be properly crimped and insulated. Give them a strong pull when finished to see if they hold.

But for splicing or joining wires, solder is the only way to go. I use a liquid electrical tape to seal the connections, and then wrap them with shrink tubing or the like.

A good comparison of a soldered connection vs. a crimped is a battery cable. If you've ever used one of those cheap replacement battery ground posts which clamps onto the bare cable strands you've experienced this corrosion first hand. In a matter of months the strand ends will be tarnished black and packed with corrosion. If it was possible to dip the entire clamp in plasti-dip it might slow the process. But really, the best way to go is a cable-end that fully soldered to the clamp, such as the stock cable is designed.


SOLDER: http://www.oddcables.com/faqs_crimp_solder.asp

Solder - This fabrication method is often considered the most labor-intensive because the connector's center contact is soldered to the cable's inner conductor. Performed properly, it is also one of the most reliable connections and can be used on cable with solid or stranded center conductors. If metals and plating of contact and cable are compatible and solder-able, and, if the technician is skilled in this type of installation, solder connections can be expected to perform for long periods of use.

Information regarding cleaning old wiring. I have a ton of this in my truck:

Wire Aged and badly tarnished copper should be thoroughly scraped with a stiff wire brush that penetrates the entire bundle and cleans every strand. The wires are ready for insertion into the contact barrel when they are burnished to there original bright copper finish. Contact barrels are lined with silver or tin plating to assure consistently high conductivity, which will be reduced if the barrel is crimped around aged or tarnished copper wire.

This is a really great picture tutorial on soldering correctly. This is really all you need to know to solder correctly: http://www.teamnovak.com/tech_info/h...l#Anchor-49575

[DaveSmed]

Absolutely, but there is another factor in play here, vibration. Solder joints are less forgiving and over time have a tendency to break right at the edge of the wire before the solder penetration. Also, these days word is based on electron theory, crimping might give more surface area.

For electronics, PCBs, and delicate work where millivolts matter, solder all the way. As far as everything else, the OEMs are going with crimp on connectors for their splices, as opposed to the old welded splices.

Great info though in soldering, it seems very few people know how to do it correctly. Oddly enough I think a metal working background makes for someone who can make a killer joint, specifically brazing. Once you can make something under physical load hold up, making something electrically sound is easy.

[Bread]

Absolutely, but there is another factor in play here, vibration. Solder joints are less forgiving and over time have a tendency to break right at the edge of the wire before the solder penetration.

Certainly possible if you leave your wires hanging loose and unsupported. But if you've got them wrapped and secured in place with zip ties or other means it's not going to happen. The under-dash environment is quite dosile compared to the one under the hood in terms of vibrations, moisture, and temperature variations. Under-hood wiring is where you need to pay special attention to fully shielding and securing your wiring with wire loom and zip ties to keep it from flapping around. Just as the factory wiring is secured.

But like you said, it's more about the installer than the methodology between crimping vs. soldering. Either has it's place and will work well if done correctly. I'm having a terrible flashback of the first time I pulled the under-dash off my M3 and was presented with a birdsnest of loose wiring, wire taps, and even wire nuts! Took me two days to undo that maddness. Freakin PO

[DaveSmed]

Wire nuts?! Yikes!

[e30etakid]

still need the key...


why do it then?

If he were to wire it up with out the key he would have to

1. wire up the fuel pump to a switch

2. find a way to keep the steering wheel from locking up.

3. etc.

It's mainly for kicks unless its a race car and you have everything on switches.

[DaveSmed]

1. wire up the fuel pump to a switch

Why? Motronic controls that.

It is mainly for kicks though

[JoeMadoo]

Just finished this morning. I used this little button temporarily until I find a different one.

[idanity]

ive seen the cig lighter on you-tube, looks great,
but whats next.
a key switch on my laptop...:hitler:

i resent keys, theives (the main cause of keys) and anything extra i have to carry around (and eventually lose, and lock my self out of) .

i am thinking of now putting in the cig lighter thing w/my car, but wonder, what if i lose the lighter, or i need the lighter while driving ??

[DaveSmed]

Well, you can wire it up so the lighter is still functional once the car is started.

BUT anyone that views this as having any kind of security benefit is nuts. If you were to go as far as to eliminate the need for a key, there would actually be a drastic reduction in security, since one of the most effective security devices on the car is the steering column lock, which would have to be eliminated to allow anything other than the factory style ignition to be used.

You can wire up the electrical portion of the factory ignition switch however you wish, be it pushbutton, cigarette lighter mod, keypad, etc. as that has nothing to do with any real security except as a mild deterrent. But that column lock might be the very thing you may regret eliminating one day.

With a little preparation (mainly based on engine type and early vs. late) making a plug in harness that allows the car to start and run as if you started it with the key is a simple matter once someone has a little knowledge of the car's electrical system. (And yes, the factory electrical system is all I need to know. 9/10 your car alarm means nothing. Ask Luke)

[graphikg]

Ok, I read every page and am interested myself. I am sorry but I would like to have a key just to feel that my e30 is safe. But if someone took my key, my e30 is gone.

SO I like the idea of a push button because you can hide it to start the car. And a thief might not find it. But you can only get so creative.

So that is why the OBC as a keypad, or another type of keypad interests me. This I think would be ideal...

1) Go in your car, put the key in and turn it two clicks,
2) do your code to switch the power on to the push button start for three seconds (or however long)
3) then push the start button to start.

The start button could be used as the kill after that and when you leave with the key, the keypad is locked keeping the power from the start button through a relay. Lets do this!!! It shouldnt be that hard. The push start button is wired to the ignition like the original poster explained, and the keypad is just in the middle with a relay that allows power to flow to the button from the 12v wire when the correct code is inputed.

[Molbius]

Ok, I read every page and am interested myself. I am sorry but I would like to have a key just to feel that my e30 is safe. But if someone took my key, my e30 is gone.

SO I like the idea of a push button because you can hide it to start the car. And a thief might not find it. But you can only get so creative.

So that is why the OBC as a keypad, or another type of keypad interests me. This I think would be ideal...

1) Go in your car, put the key in and turn it two clicks,
2) do your code to switch the power on to the push button start for three seconds (or however long)
3) then push the start button to start.

The start button could be used as the kill after that and when you leave with the key, the keypad is locked keeping the power from the start button through a relay. Lets do this!!! It shouldnt be that hard. The push start button is wired to the ignition like the original poster explained, and the keypad is just in the middle with a relay that allows power to flow to the button from the 12v wire when the correct code is inputed.

If you truly want it to be safe there are companies now that make aftermarket rfid systems. so you just carry the key card with you rather than having an actual key, or for the truly crazy(me) have one implanted in your hand and never have to worry about someone stealing it :P

[graphikg]

I cant find the ebay push button start product the original poster used. I cant find the Demon tuning one any where.

[sennafan]

i cant find the ebay push button start product the original poster used. I cant find the demon tuning one any where.

+1

[MC Hammered]

I just read the whole thread and I think having to still insert the key really defeats the purpose of the push button start.

I would suggest the following setup if it can be rigged up.

Remove the need to have the key to be inserted to activate the car then:

Enter a code on the OBC to enable the starter then push the button to start the car.

Push the start button again to turn off the car and this resets the need to have the OBC code entered first before you can start it again.

You get the security you need, it is super stealth and you no longer need to carry a key with you that you can lose.

[norcalE30]

then theres the matter of that funny steering lock... kinda hard to drive when ya cant steer