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Replacing the E30 Heater Core and Valve

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  • iPee
    replied
    Replacing the E30 Heater Core and Valve

    I got the valve apart and took out the rivets. When I tried to put it back together, I have a gap that looks even bigger than before. Did anyone else have this issue? Will the bolts actually help clamp it down all the way?




    Also the diaphragm in the middle is torn, should I just replace the valve altogether?



    It fits a bit better with the metal washer out. Is the washer needed for it to operate properly?





    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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  • iPee
    replied
    How did you separate the two pieces of the heater valve? Just pull it apart and hammer out the rivets? Also is there a o-ring that goes in between the two pieces? I couldn't tell from your picture.

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  • atldohc
    replied
    i had this problem last year around september or october, and ended up doing a ghetto fix with rtv. it didn't cost me anything, as i used orings, screws, and rtv that i already had. i took a picture of the valve a few months later, and although i havent taken any recently it still looks the same and is still completely dry. in the picture you can see the problem seal, and the deterioration of it in the center. the outside was still in good enough shape, so i just ripped out the loose pieces in the center and covered the seal in rtv after cleaning everything off with brake cleaner. i believe the problem with most of these valves is the original rivets holding the parts together can no longer provide enough clamping force, hence the coolant leaking out of that seam. i replaced the rivets with screws and nuts that i had. you can see i had to grind the edges off the nuts due to clearance limitations. if i had taken a trip to the hardware store i might've found smaller parts that didn't require any modification. just thought i'd share in case anyone was wondering if it's possible to fix it and save some money. of course only time will tell how long it holds up






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  • e30austin
    replied
    Originally posted by iPee View Post
    Did you need to drain the coolant before attempting this procedure?
    Only if you don't want coolant all over your car...

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  • iPee
    replied
    Did you need to drain the coolant before attempting this procedure?

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  • blackmist27
    replied
    all parts ordered. i am going to give it a go in the next week. hope i have a running working heater soon.

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  • e30austin
    replied
    Originally posted by Chrisbike View Post
    I just replaced my core this weekend, didn't fix my heat issue, valve works, I've bled the system numerous times and haven't really got that hot air. Only way to get things to warm up is using the recirc. Before I replaced it I pressure tested the system and there was a pin hole leak in from the heater core. When I was pulling off all the hoses there was no coolant in the heater aluminum pipes and I am wonder if something is blocking. The heater core, return and feed are both hot so I assume coolant is reaching it. Enough ranting, maybe someone has a idea
    Fill your cooling system through the upper radiator hose. See if that helps your issue.

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  • Chrisbike
    replied
    I just replaced my core this weekend, didn't fix my heat issue, valve works, I've bled the system numerous times and haven't really got that hot air. Only way to get things to warm up is using the recirc. Before I replaced it I pressure tested the system and there was a pin hole leak in from the heater core. When I was pulling off all the hoses there was no coolant in the heater aluminum pipes and I am wonder if something is blocking. The heater core, return and feed are both hot so I assume coolant is reaching it. Enough ranting, maybe someone has a idea

    Leave a comment:


  • superj
    replied
    my valve is frozen closed also. and, oddly, we have had weather in the low 30s here in south texas. normally, you don't even need a heater core and most people bypass them, which is what I though had been done to this little 87 325, but its the valve.

    I might make a quick ball valve set up for now. I have other things that require fixing to be safe instead of more comfortable

    Leave a comment:


  • cory58
    replied
    Originally posted by Rome_Dome View Post
    My heater control valve started leaking really bad on me. Replaced the heater core and a makeshift manual heater control valve ... This was not the final product . Had to make a few adjustments at the end, but the idea is there


    Lamont and Rollo would approve of that rig!

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  • Rome_Dome
    replied
    Budget/manual Heater control valve

    My heater control valve started leaking really bad on me. Replaced the heater core and a makeshift manual heater control valve ... This was not the final product . Had to make a few adjustments at the end, but the idea is there
    Attached Files

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  • banghasan
    replied
    where to find those things mate?

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  • AllydNYC
    replied
    Finished this up this weekend. Thank you for the info!!

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  • Dussen
    replied
    Getting ready to do this with AAA325is today.

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  • db.
    replied
    RHD E30 Owners take note:

    If you've got a Right Hand Drive E30 you'll need to remove the bracket that the brake booster runs through. Part #1 in this image.



    The reason for this is that the E clamp and a number of the 8mm bolts are inaccessible until this bracket has been removed.

    You should be able to safely remove this part without having to worry about the booster falling from the firewall.

    Leave a comment:

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