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Replacing the E30 Heater Core and Valve

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  • archie
    replied
    Mine shit on me last week also on my 88 M3.



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  • davem
    replied
    Do you need to drain any coolant before you disconnect the hoses to the firewall? Would draining the rad be enough? Or is it not even necessary at all?

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  • Mr.SWISS
    replied
    Car had a heater valve gushing when I got it. Since I replaced and reattached hoses it has heat at idle and low speed, but over 55 mph is noda. Car has had a rebuilt head, used heater valve (no leaks,piston moves),new waterpump and thermo. no leaks, I am going to go out now and swap the hoses as the PO had the same prob.

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  • Uliv1c
    replied
    Started mine on a 87/325is .,. Havent got the orings yet . Are those only oem or can I get them at any parts store????

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  • blalor
    replied
    Originally posted by mo diesil View Post
    are there negitive effects of bypassing the core temporarily?
    Aside from freezing your arse off? Nah. :) Mine's been bypassed since April (but I haven't driven it any distance since October).

    Originally posted by Ceeker View Post
    I'm sure you can find a good used core and heater valve on here for a fraction of the cost. Post on the wanted list.
    The one for the '91 318is is about $150 at RMEuropean.com. I bought a used heater core from someone on this forum, but the dipshit just threw it into a box — loose — and it got beat to hell in the mail, and now leaks, too (I had it tested at a local radiator shop).

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  • mo diesil
    replied
    are there negitive effects of bypassing the core temporarily?

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  • Ceeker
    replied
    Originally posted by nuk78 View Post
    Hey guys, I also have a bad heater core, planning on changing the valve as well while im down there. Anyone know where to get the best deal on core and valve, pelican parts will be running me well over $300 for the pair, any advice would be helpful, thanks!
    I'm sure you can find a good used core and heater valve on here for a fraction of the cost. Post on the wanted list.

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  • nuk78
    replied
    Hey guys, I also have a bad heater core, planning on changing the valve as well while im down there. Anyone know where to get the best deal on core and valve, pelican parts will be running me well over $300 for the pair, any advice would be helpful, thanks!

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  • Ceeker
    replied
    Originally posted by dillsnick View Post
    That's the support for the knee bolster in air bag cars. There should be 3 bolts that hold it into the shift tunnel. They are not welded in (it might have been really dirty and seemed that way). Once you unbolt them, it's easy to move out of the way. I have two air bag cars that I've done this for, it looks scarier than it is..
    AH! the mystery is solved...lol very good.. good to know..

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  • LJ851
    replied
    Originally posted by Doughnut View Post
    Wow, there is a lot of people having problems with their heater cores and valves!
    Its pretty amazing that these parts last this long. My stuff is original and older than half the people on this forum!

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  • Doughnut
    replied
    Wow, there is a lot of people having problems with their heater cores and valves!

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  • LJ851
    replied
    My heater valve started leaking last year, replaced it now the heater core is leaking. YAY!

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  • corydoitch
    replied
    I bought the 325 with a bypassed heater core, I got around to taking it out today, and it looked like only the o-rings had been leaking before, so I went out and bought new o-rings, put it all back together and its leaking from both corners of the heater core, AND from the heater valve? Has anyone ever had a heater valve leak before? Also does anyone have a diagram of which way the hoses in the engine bay are routed? Im pretty sure I have them routed right, but I just wanna be sure!

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  • Jean
    replied
    ^ exactly, just unbolt it to get it out of the way.

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  • T La
    replied
    Originally posted by quikveedb2 View Post
    =

    lol'd

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