I just replaced the Oil Pan gasket on my 91 325i. Just adding to the observations made here.
1.> The engine support bar is something you should get ($52 after discount and taxes at HF)
2.> There is no need to unbolt ANY subframe or suspension related component.
3.> Just hook up the support bar, undo the mounts, unclip the radiator shroud and just raise the engine couple of inches. You can stop when the rear of the block hits the firewall.
4.> Unbolt the pan after unhooking the oil level sensor and ground strap, and the pan drops out easily.
The hardest part was to get the old gasket off the block, I soaked it in WD40 for about 1/2 an hour and I guess it helped in getting the gasket off.
Regards
TC
OIL PAN Gasket Replacement Tips
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I disconnect the motor mounts (and usually replace them at this time).
then i use a bottle jack on the passenger engine mount arm. and then lift the engine ~3-4 inches. i have to bend the fan blades a little so clear the shroud.
then drop the pan, and never once have i needed to remove the oil pump.
if you are on a tight budget i would just use a jack and a small block of wood and do it the same way.Leave a comment:
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dude you responded to a year and more old post. I would hope he has his oil pan back on by nowLeave a comment:
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Gasket help
What I did was use small lengths of thread in every second hole on the pan to hold the gasket on while I was installing it and then after putting the bolts in the alternative holes pulled the thread out.Leave a comment:
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I used the paper MTC oil pan gasket and put Hi-Temp RTV (Red) on both sides coating it, been a couple weeks now and hasn't leaked. I only use hi-temp on my car for all gaskets because it has a bigger operating window than the rest. Bigger the temp range, the more likely it will work.Leave a comment:
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Just another FYI on this tough job with pics..
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I have driven this for 1500 miles now and no leaks.. I would recommend the gasket maker over the gasket..Leave a comment:
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wow.
Never mind. I realized that bolt isn't part of the bell housing shield. :(
Dumb.Leave a comment:
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I was just defeated by the upper most torx bolt on the drivers side. It just won't budge and I was afraid I would have stripped it if I kept at it. I had to button up everything else all because of that one last fucking bolt! Arggg! :hitler:
Its semi deep into the transmission tunnel... how are you guys getting at it?
ThanksLeave a comment:
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as long as you've filled it up with the proper amount you should be fine. There's still oil all up inside your motor unless you took a year to change your oil pan :)
you might want to double check your fluid level after you're all done and ran it for a bitLeave a comment:
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What about start up? I shattered my oil pan from hitting a rock at 60. I wanna make sure I don't damnage any internals when trying to start it. Tips? Tricks?Leave a comment:
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wow, really? for the life of me I couldn't make that happen today. I was hoping to be able to raise the engine high enough and not having to remove the pump. but I still ended up removing it.
Leo
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Is there any point to dropping the oil pump if it isn't needed to remove the pan eg are there components that are on a replacement schedule or recommended to clean or replace?Leave a comment:
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I jacked up the engine from the bellhousing and had enough room to remove the oil pan without removing the oil pump or anything else.Leave a comment:


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