OIL PAN Gasket Replacement Tips

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  • johnwoo
    replied
    Originally posted by DCColegrove
    The OEM cork gaskets leak eventually because they harden and the asymmetric expansion and contraction of the pan and block plus the vibration pulverizes them after a while...

    The composite (cardboard like) ones only leak if installed with too much goop on them because of that same scrubbing action between the block and pan, the goop comes unstuck.

    This tech information (SOP) is backed by 27 years of BMW oil pan gasket leaks (I've probably done like 300+(???) in that time) and I know what (and how long it took) to come back leaking again.
    have a part number for the good gasket? composite (cardboard like)

    Leave a comment:


  • johnwoo
    replied
    Originally posted by DCColegrove
    The OEM cork gaskets leak eventually because they harden and the asymmetric expansion and contraction of the pan and block plus the vibration pulverizes them after a while...

    The composite (cardboard like) ones only leak if installed with too much goop on them because of that same scrubbing action between the block and pan, the goop comes unstuck.

    This tech information (SOP) is backed by 27 years of BMW oil pan gasket leaks (I've probably done like 300+(???) in that time) and I know what (and how long it took) to come back leaking again.
    anyone know the part number for a composite (cardboard like) good gasket?

    Leave a comment:


  • alpinaclone
    replied
    I have always liked that anaerobic sealer, it looks like red icing and seems to get everywhere, but it works well. I think this is the same stuff peerless is talking about.

    Leave a comment:


  • dashboardmonkey
    replied
    Originally posted by DCColegrove
    I don't know if this has already been here but I'll chime in really quick...

    1. Use a composite gasket not a cork one!

    2. Use only a dab of Dirko sealer (RTV Gray) on the corners where the case covers meet the block in the front and rear.

    Trust me on this one.
    I agree. Using sealant and gasket could squish the gasket out therefore being very unreliable. Gasket or sealant not both.

    Andy

    Leave a comment:


  • Restoman
    replied
    When you remove the cover on the back of the oil pan, for heavens sake remember where each of the 4 torx bolts goes. When it's time to button everything up, it can be very frustrating trying to figure out where each goes.

    Leave a comment:


  • CorvallisBMW
    replied
    ^ good to know, my vert needs it's gasket changed bad

    The coupe hasn't leaked a drop since I did it, it looks perfect. But we'll see how long it holds up. All I know is that both my factory gaskets were that paper/carboard/composite crap and they leak like sieves. And the dealer said cork would hold up a lot better.

    Leave a comment:


  • peerless
    replied
    I agree with the above.

    I can't stand cork gaskets and I really can't stand RTV either. I have seen more oil leaks caused by rtv then not. In most case's rtv sealer is not applied correctly and this will almost always cause a leak sooner then if the gasket was simply applied correctly with no sealer.

    I personally use a non-hardening liquid aviation gasket sealer/adhesive. I typically only use it on one side to secure the gasket to the mating surface.

    RTV :down:

    This information is backed by 20+yrs of general automotive repair experience.

    Leave a comment:


  • DCColegrove
    replied
    The OEM cork gaskets leak eventually because they harden and the asymmetric expansion and contraction of the pan and block plus the vibration pulverizes them after a while...

    The composite (cardboard like) ones only leak if installed with too much goop on them because of that same scrubbing action between the block and pan, the goop comes unstuck.

    This tech information (SOP) is backed by 27 years of BMW oil pan gasket leaks (I've probably done like 300+(???) in that time) and I know what (and how long it took) to come back leaking again.
    Last edited by DCColegrove; 09-02-2008, 06:48 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • CorvallisBMW
    replied
    Originally posted by DCColegrove
    I don't know if this has already been here but I'll chime in really quick...

    1. Use a composite gasket not a cork one!

    2. Use only a dab of Dirko sealer (RTV Gray) on the corners where the case covers meet the block in the front and rear.

    Trust me on this one.
    Really? why do you say that?

    I only wonder b/c I just replaced mine with an OEM cork gasket, and used RTV grey all around (as per advice from many others)

    Leave a comment:


  • DCColegrove
    replied
    I don't know if this has already been here but I'll chime in really quick...

    1. Use a composite gasket not a cork one!

    2. Use only a dab of Dirko sealer (RTV Gray) on the corners where the case covers meet the block in the front and rear.

    Trust me on this one.

    Leave a comment:


  • atlzhp6m
    replied
    Originally posted by THATDONFC
    So basically just loosen the motor mounts and then unbolt all the oil pan bolts with the oil pump as well? You're saying I don't need to loosen the sway bar bolts?
    read step 2 :)

    Leave a comment:


  • THATDONFC
    replied
    So basically just loosen the motor mounts and then unbolt all the oil pan bolts with the oil pump as well? You're saying I don't need to loosen the sway bar bolts?
    Last edited by THATDONFC; 09-02-2008, 09:36 AM.

    Leave a comment:


  • e30this
    replied
    You can use any gasket really. I always use gasket sealer with the gasket too.
    thin coat on the bottom thin coat on top.
    BTW you dont have to do number 2.

    Leave a comment:


  • THATDONFC
    replied
    Thanks... I'm gonna go buy these so I can finish my oil pan replacement.
    Do you think it's safe to use a gasket from autozone?

    Leave a comment:


  • e30this
    replied
    you can use a 12 point 11mm and a 8mm to remove the torx.I think thats what they are.

    Leave a comment:

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