OIL PAN Gasket Replacement Tips
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anyone know the part number for a composite (cardboard like) good gasket?The OEM cork gaskets leak eventually because they harden and the asymmetric expansion and contraction of the pan and block plus the vibration pulverizes them after a while...
The composite (cardboard like) ones only leak if installed with too much goop on them because of that same scrubbing action between the block and pan, the goop comes unstuck.
This tech information (SOP) is backed by 27 years of BMW oil pan gasket leaks (I've probably done like 300+(???) in that time) and I know what (and how long it took) to come back leaking again.Leave a comment:
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I have always liked that anaerobic sealer, it looks like red icing and seems to get everywhere, but it works well. I think this is the same stuff peerless is talking about.Leave a comment:
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I agree. Using sealant and gasket could squish the gasket out therefore being very unreliable. Gasket or sealant not both.
AndyLeave a comment:
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When you remove the cover on the back of the oil pan, for heavens sake remember where each of the 4 torx bolts goes. When it's time to button everything up, it can be very frustrating trying to figure out where each goes.Leave a comment:
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^ good to know, my vert needs it's gasket changed bad
The coupe hasn't leaked a drop since I did it, it looks perfect. But we'll see how long it holds up. All I know is that both my factory gaskets were that paper/carboard/composite crap and they leak like sieves. And the dealer said cork would hold up a lot better.Leave a comment:
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I agree with the above.
I can't stand cork gaskets and I really can't stand RTV either. I have seen more oil leaks caused by rtv then not. In most case's rtv sealer is not applied correctly and this will almost always cause a leak sooner then if the gasket was simply applied correctly with no sealer.
I personally use a non-hardening liquid aviation gasket sealer/adhesive. I typically only use it on one side to secure the gasket to the mating surface.
RTV :down:
This information is backed by 20+yrs of general automotive repair experience.Leave a comment:
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The OEM cork gaskets leak eventually because they harden and the asymmetric expansion and contraction of the pan and block plus the vibration pulverizes them after a while...
The composite (cardboard like) ones only leak if installed with too much goop on them because of that same scrubbing action between the block and pan, the goop comes unstuck.
This tech information (SOP) is backed by 27 years of BMW oil pan gasket leaks (I've probably done like 300+(???) in that time) and I know what (and how long it took) to come back leaking again.Last edited by DCColegrove; 09-02-2008, 06:48 PM.Leave a comment:
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Really? why do you say that?
I only wonder b/c I just replaced mine with an OEM cork gasket, and used RTV grey all around (as per advice from many others)Leave a comment:
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I don't know if this has already been here but I'll chime in really quick...
1. Use a composite gasket not a cork one!
2. Use only a dab of Dirko sealer (RTV Gray) on the corners where the case covers meet the block in the front and rear.
Trust me on this one.Leave a comment:
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You can use any gasket really. I always use gasket sealer with the gasket too.
thin coat on the bottom thin coat on top.
BTW you dont have to do number 2.Leave a comment:
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Thanks... I'm gonna go buy these so I can finish my oil pan replacement.
Do you think it's safe to use a gasket from autozone?Leave a comment:
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you can use a 12 point 11mm and a 8mm to remove the torx.I think thats what they are.Leave a comment:

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