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    Drains 101

    >
    >
    > Carey Grummitt <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
    > Drains: 101
    > First off, be sure to remove the crud blocking a vent/drain. If
    you just blow/push it out of the way... it will find it's way back and
    clog a drain or vent.
    >
    > Sunroof:
    > The best way to clear the sunroof drains- two on each side for a
    total of four sunroof drains (and most other drains) is by compressed
    air/air compressor. FYI: The front drains snake down the front door
    jam (near the windshield frame) and drain out from within the
    wheel-well (about/above where the speaker is located on the front
    floor). You can't locate the end of this hose unless you remove the
    fender- not that you need too, just to let you know.
    >
    > The rear roof drains- drain into the air vents located in the trunk
    (battery compartment on the passenger side and the Jack storage
    compartment on the driver side). Check and make sure the rear drains
    are still draining out the vents, sometimes the steel clips that hold
    them in place will rust and the water will then start to drain into
    the compartments in the trunk.
    >
    > Compartments in the trunk:
    > Both L/R trunk compartments have a small "slit" in the steel/bottoms
    that allows water to drain in the event water should end up there.
    You can see the slits/drains if you look under the car/quarter panels
    just below the battery/jack compartments. The slits are only about a
    1/2 inch wide and maybe have a very small opening of about a 1/16" for
    water to drain. It's very common for the "slits" (in the trunk only)
    to become full of dirt/sand/leaves in the aging E30's. It's best to
    remove the plastic liner in the trunk about every 20 years (and the
    battery) and fully clean/vacuum the crud out of the compartments to
    make sure the slits remain clear (and hope that the tail panel has not
    already started to rust out). Any on going moisture in this area is
    the #1 reason quarter panels start to rust out in the rear- no matter
    how well BMW rust-proofs the cars (and they do a fine job of doing
    that). Also check for rust/holes in the steel along the rubber trunk
    seal or rusted
    > steel around the tail lights if you have on-going condensation
    build up in the trunk (you should remove the tail lights for the best
    inspection. This is a BIG problem for the E30's that have been in or
    are from the Eastern US. Replace the trunk seal and seals on the
    tail lights if water is leaking in and seal any areas of rust in or
    around the trunk-deck or around the tail lights/tail panel area.
    >
    > You will also find the same "drain slits" along the L/R frame rails
    (two I believe on each side) near the jacking points (front and rear)
    of the car near the inside of the "pinch welds" of/near the door frame
    located just under the door frame/jams (under the car). It's very
    unlikely that these frame rail drains would ever need to be used as
    "drains" unless a car was "fully" submerged in water (water coming up
    over the door jams) or for any other reason for a large amount of
    water entering the cab of a car. The slits also have a duel purpose-
    to be used as air vents to equalize air pressure when slamming a door
    shut.
    >
    > Water on the front cabin floor:
    > One of the first places you will see water in the cab is a drip
    coming from under the dash on the driver's side below (between) the
    hood release handle and the clutch peddle. On a rainy day place a dry
    newspaper under the pedals and the next day you should see the genreal
    location of the drips. Due to a tight fit (wires, etc) under the dash
    it's unlikely you will be able to see where the water is coming from
    without tearing deeper into the dash. Assuming that the windshield
    frame (rust) and rubber seal are intact and not leaking (as well as
    the heater core not leaking on the passenger side) the #1 problem is
    the water vents near the heater-blower motor located under the hood,
    near the top of the fire wall/center. You CANNOT just blow the vents
    out on the L/R side of the fire wall (in most cases)... The problem (a
    design flaw IMO) is the fact that leaves/dirt (vegetation) enter the
    blower duct (the black plastic air vents near the wiper blades near
    the center of the
    > windshield/hood) and over years collect in and around the water
    vents inside the blower cavity. If your lucky... they will decompose
    and drain out, but after years they build up (dirt/leaves/moss/twigs).
    If all you do is use compressed air to blow the "crud" out of the
    way... after the next good rain storm the crud will re-clog the
    drain-vents. Take a few hours and remove the access panel on the
    firewall and clean out all the crud in the blower compartment using
    compressed air AND a vacuum (you may want/need to remove the blower
    motor- it's a tight fit). This is also a good time to replace the
    blower motor if it is old, not working or starting to fail. Also look
    for rust damage in this area. Be sure to clean both the FAR left and
    right of this cavity- there is drain vents on both sides.
    >
    > <!--[if !supportEmptyParas]--> <!--[endif]-->
    > Hope this is helpful.
    >
    >
    > lhrc51 wrote: What would cause the front driver side carpet to
    get wet when it
    > rains? I've cleaned the plastic spout located inside the engine
    > compartment by the firewall on the passenger side & tried to clean the
    > sunroof drains (2 of 'em right?) from the top w/weed-wacker line but it
    > still happens. The line goes pretty deep inside the drains but it gets
    > stuck at one point on both sides. It comes out clean so it doesn't
    > look like there are any clogs, should I attempt to do the same from the
    > bottom of the drains by the jacking points?
    >
    > How about a wet carpet on the rear passenger side, could this be caused
    > by clogged sunroof drains?
    >
    > TIA,
    >
    > Luis
    > '88 325is
    > '86 325i
    > '86 325e
    >
    >
    Mtech1 v8 build thread - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...d.php?t=413205



    OEM v8 manual chip or dme - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho....php?p=4938827

    #2
    Ok so when you say the blower compartment do you mean under the blowrr motor assembly? Like were the heater core is? Or infront of the blower motor like when you first open the access panel?

    And if it is under the motor assembly how do you take the plastic part off? I tryed to unscrew the 4 bolts (2 on each side) but the whole thing wouldnt budge. Iv had this leak forever so could someone please help? Thanks
    M30 is God's motor.....but Jesus drives an M60'd car -slammin.e28

    Comment


      #3
      If you want to do it proper, you will need to remove the dash and heater box to refresh ALL of your seals. If you know for a fact that the sunroof drains are proper and the drain under the car is clear and you know it isn't the windshield...well, grab your ankles and pull that dash.

      Good luck,
      Luke

      August R3VLimited Special: E3012 "V3" box: $225 shipped

      Tutorials: Killer $500 Stereo | E30 Vert Dual 8'' Box Installation | E3010 Amp Rack Installation | Radio Wiring and Amp Bypass

      Comment


        #4
        just a note.. removing the dash is NOT that difficult. dedicate about an hour to it and get a helper and some tape to label the wires. i just did mine and actually had fun doing it!
        buy my m20/g260 parts

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by Jean View Post
          > How about a wet carpet on the rear passenger side, could this be caused
          > by clogged sunroof drains?
          this is the question I haven't been able to answer. everything in my car is bone dry (trunk, etc). but the rear passenger floor gets filled with water if the car is left outside for a long period in the rain.

          maybe it's just the sunroof drain, but it seems awful dry up there. I guess I should just blow it out with my compressor..
          Build thread

          Bimmerlabs

          Comment


            #6
            have you checked the grommets that hold the sail behind the 1/4 window in place?

            if they are old and cracked, water can leak through them to the rear foot wells.
            AWD > RWD

            Comment


              #7
              I've thought about that. they weren't bad when I last had them off, but it was a good while ago. I remember them being easy to pop free, and I want to remove the shadowline trim anyway.
              Build thread

              Bimmerlabs

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by evandael View Post
                just a note.. removing the dash is NOT that difficult. dedicate about an hour to it and get a helper and some tape to label the wires. i just did mine and actually had fun doing it!
                The heater box is a different animal tho, considerably more to disconnect and reconnect, but its still doable without any major expertise.

                Comment


                  #9
                  Yep, good idea to replace all the seals/gaskets there!!
                  Mtech1 v8 build thread - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...d.php?t=413205



                  OEM v8 manual chip or dme - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho....php?p=4938827

                  Comment

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