On TunerStudio dashboard you can add a gauge that shows you sync loss count. That's the easiest way to see if you are losing sync, besides the tooth logger. It should basically have no sync loss except 1 count every time you "burn" a change to the ECU while it's on. IE if you have the car on for 10 minutes and you burn changes 3 times to the ECU, it should show a sync loss of 3. Anything more and you have an issue.
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Originally posted by Digitalwave View PostOn TunerStudio dashboard you can add a gauge that shows you sync loss count. That's the easiest way to see if you are losing sync, besides the tooth logger. It should basically have no sync loss except 1 count every time you "burn" a change to the ECU while it's on. IE if you have the car on for 10 minutes and you burn changes 3 times to the ECU, it should show a sync loss of 3. Anything more and you have an issue.
Gonna try this out right now. Thanks
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Originally posted by justinpirie View PostI’ve found a fuel pressure gauge or sensor is the best place to start there. Don’t swap pumps until you’ve verified it’s the culprit.
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I was planning on putting the bigger pump anyway so. It's already done now. Lol
Also doesn't appear to be any sync loss
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Originally posted by Joegreen02 View PostI was planning on putting the bigger pump anyway so. It's already done now. Lol
Also doesn't appear to be any sync loss
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Cool. How is the power above 5000 now. Injector Duty cycle?
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Originally posted by justinpirie View PostCool. How is the power above 5000 now. Injector Duty cycle?
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It pulls hard up to 5000 power is great. After that she is still floundering doesn't fall on its face but it's still missing. Sounds like a wet distributor cap so I've got a new cap and rotor I'm about to through in there too. Edwardo estimated 170ish to the wheels once the fuel supply is there. I'm doing the injector swap now.
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Originally posted by justinpirie View PostAlso you can put it on a TS dashboard. Hard to use while driving though.
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I'll try that too. This thing is gonna be a beast once I figure out if I'm going super charged or turbo. I'm still on the fence on that too
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you are hitting the rev limiter. If you look below it says SPK: revlim retard(deg): 2.7. It takes 2.7 degs from your base to get 34.3.
It's a 2 valve head with a little quench... 36-38-40 is probably in the realm of "correct" at WOT after 3k. To know for sure, you need a dyno, of course.
You need to change your required fuel in your general settings after changing injector flow rate. You also should change dead time if you have it available. It's not the end of the world if you don't have it. It's not as important as some people make it out to be'84 318i M10B18 147- Safari Beige
NA: 93whp/90ftlbs, MS2E w/ LC, 2-Step
Turbo: 221whp/214ftlbs, MS3x flex @ 17psi
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Originally posted by Jaxx_ View Postyou are hitting the rev limiter. If you look below it says SPK: revlim retard(deg): 2.7. It takes 2.7 degs from your base to get 34.3.
It's a 2 valve head with a little quench... 36-38-40 is probably in the realm of "correct" at WOT after 3k. To know for sure, you need a dyno, of course.
You need to change your required fuel in your general settings after changing injector flow rate. You also should change dead time if you have it available. It's not the end of the world if you don't have it. It's not as important as some people make it out to be
The Rev limiter is set to 6300 though not 5750. I do have dead time available although I don't know what that is or how it should be manipulated only thing I could find on the injectors is they are 23.8 gph. I did reset that and I believe my problem with the cutting out to be the gap on the cps I'm gonna reset it tomorrow morning and I'll report back. If it clears up its back to the dyno to put down closer to 200!
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