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Lost in a sea of tuning... (Ostrich 2.0)

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  • Digitalwave
    replied
    Originally posted by digger View Post
    to be honest an engine like this seems to have anough investment it needs a proper ECU, it still needs the harness to be good, a few basic sensors carried over, fuel delivery system and igntion componets in good order but no narrowband o2, AFM, TS nonsense.
    This pretty much sums it up. Any standalone EMS should be able to get the job done pretty easily in this case.

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  • digger
    replied
    Google image and print and double sided tape to the vibration damper

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  • Tinkerer007
    replied
    Yeah, I was kind of counting on the engine running better than it did on the stock management.
    I tried 2 different sets of 19 Lbs injectors and a set from an M50 engine.

    When I swapped the M20b25 back in I re-used the same harness and all sensors except the oil pressure sensor. I also used the same cap and wires, and harmonic balancer on the front of the engine. And the M50 injectors. And the same AFM. I did change the intake manifold from an extrude honed one to a stock one (but I swapped over the fuel rail). (Hmm, maybe I should pressure test the intake manifold to make sure there are no holes in it, although a smoke test did not show anything.)
    Each engine had its own set of plugs.

    The M20b25 runs strong to redline at all throttle positions.

    The cam is likely a regrind. ( I did not get a timing card.) Probably this one:
    https://bimmerheads.com/products/m20...grind-camshaft


    digger what degree wheel do you use? Did you make it?
    Do you think this one would work:
    https://www.amazon.com/Rotary-Valve-...NsaWNrPXRydWU=
    I was thinking I could glue some magnets to the back to stick it to the crank pulley.

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  • digger
    replied
    an engine like this should run "fine" as in no cutouts or missing on bone stock ecu with a set of 19 or 21lb injectors (i.e. prorata the fuel requirements) it wont be optmal from a perfromance perspective, if it doesnt there are issues with sensors, wiring, FI componentry etc IMO rather than the "mapping" (light knocking aside).

    the compression numbers are a bit high but its not close to 15:1 static lol, its a cam timing thing. A budget 2.8 with dbilas 276 is about 205 psi runs exceptionally well. this is a bit higher compression than a budget 2.8 so seems to be the in the ballpark but the cam is a little small (did it come with a cam card?). my rule of thumb never ever buy a cam without seeing the cam card what does 274 even mean? is it 274 with zero lash or is 274 at 0.050" or 1mm) then theres a regrind 274 vs new grind

    to be honest an engine like this seems to have anough investment it needs a proper ECU, it still needs the harness to be good, a few basic sensors carried over, fuel delivery system and igntion componets in good order but no narrowband o2, AFM, TS nonsense.
    Last edited by digger; 09-26-2020, 05:10 PM.

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  • bmwman91
    replied
    Ha wow, 15:1. It's a very good thing that you have it out of the car and will be digging in. With any luck you'll find some conclusive results. Post pics!

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  • Tinkerer007
    replied
    Jay at SSSquid also said the compression ratio was 15:1 based on static compression numbers.
    He is also suspicious of my Amazon NewYall 19Lbs. injectors (I didn't even notice they weren't Bosch.)

    I swapped in the previous M20B25 and got the car back today. It is so nice to be able to rev smoothly to 6K RPM. It is using the same harness and sensors. The injectors are the M50 injectors I had installed at one point.

    So, now I will try to figure out why the static compression is so high, and what the dynamic compression is.

    Can anyone recommend a degree wheel that will fit the M20?
    I am also looking for a burrette to CC the cylinder head and piston.

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  • bmwman91
    replied
    Definitely provide that feedback, he should get it sorted out pretty quick.

    Yeah, Dinan E30 tunes are pretty barebones.

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  • Tinkerer007
    replied
    So I tried the stock 173 tune, and that works as expected (in terms of the RPM values changing).
    I also tried a Dinan tune I bought some time ago. That also worked as expected. (I was surprised that only the WOT maps were changed.) So, it is not much of a tune. But, this verified that process of reading the chip works.
    The SSSquid tune has trouble with idle and has to be revved up to 2K RPM to avoid killing the engine when taking off.

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  • bmwman91
    replied
    Tach is driven by ECU. If it was not tracking crank position or speed, it would not run at all. I would run this observation by Sssquid aa it could indicate a bad flag somewhere in the code.

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  • Tinkerer007
    replied
    So, this is strange.
    I had the emulator running while my son drove us over to the mechanic so I could use the lift to change the master brake cylinder (and then bleed the brakes).
    The emulator is not changing RPM cells with acceleration.
    The tachometer is working.
    Does the tach get its signal from a source than the ECU?
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=td8F0Y40d7w

    I will futz with the connectors under the intake manifold. And try a different CPS.

    Leave a comment:


  • Tinkerer007
    replied
    Even with the cam timing retarded 4 degrees, I still need octane boost for high loads. If I unplug O2 sensor on freeway, it runs rich, 10 - 15. With O2 it runs 14 -16. Here is a pic with compression numbers: Sent from my VS995 using Tapatalk

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  • vWBIRDWv
    replied
    Originally posted by ForcedFirebird View Post

    Actually what happens is the key gets wallowed out from acel/decel and the timing becomes erratic. Of the ~.5 dozen times I've come across it, it blew one stroker motor. After dissecting it, put an angle finder on it and the reluctor could move something like ~10° advanced to -22° retarded while the crank was stationary. o.0
    Found this on my Stroker, Woodruf key wallowed out the inside of the crank and the timing gear..... had .05 play in each direction.car ran just fine but the dampener was so loose it sounded like it had a spun main bearing..thankfully i caught it when i did could have been disastrous ...

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  • bmwman91
    replied
    Wow, yeah that will certainly not do anything good for the engine!

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  • ForcedFirebird
    replied
    Originally posted by bmwman91 View Post

    Oof, yeah that's a recipe for a bad time. A lot of folks don't quite know how important the toothed ring on the damper is...the single most important thing for the ECU!

    I suspect that my HG blew in a large part because the rubber in the damper wheel failed and let the toothed ring go partially unconstrained, leading to the ECU firing the ignition way too early. I guess if one was "lucky" and they instead had the woodruff key shear, the damper would get "stuck" a little off and just cause severely retarded ignition timing.
    Actually what happens is the key gets wallowed out from acel/decel and the timing becomes erratic. Of the ~.5 dozen times I've come across it, it blew one stroker motor. After dissecting it, put an angle finder on it and the reluctor could move something like ~10° advanced to -22° retarded while the crank was stationary. o.0

    Leave a comment:


  • Victell
    replied
    I would verify correct spark plug gap. Even if it is correct, tighten it up some and see if that makes any difference.

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