M42 turbo fact thread

[MF DOOM]

I recall 16-17ish

[jntar]

What kind of vacuum numbers are you guys getting at idle? Im at 15psi of vacuum and cant get any more than that.

[jntar]

Can we get a base (close to stock) ignition map posted? Here is mine, users be warned it may not be a good map for you.

[anthonymax007]

Grab an ix washer reservoir, or just mount a custom one in the battery tray. Not sure which 4 banger cars have the battery up front though.

Thanks for the info. I knew there had to be a way to keep them working, and yea, I'm of the camp that sprays his windshield if its gets dirty while driving. Unless everyone else has special eagle eyes that can burn through that shizzz.

[Northern]

Grab an ix washer reservoir, or just mount a custom one in the battery tray. Not sure which 4 banger cars have the battery up front though.

[wazzu70]

Windshield wipers still work without a reserivor. You just can't spray liquid on the windshield.

[anthonymax007]

Whoa. So no working windshield wipers?

[MF DOOM]

Garbage can.

[anthonymax007]

NOOB question here, but where are you guys relocating your windshield fluid reservoir to? Sorry if it's been asked already.


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[e30guydownunder]

I am running NGK BCPR7ES sparkplugs without issues. Cheap as too.

I have essentially used the throttle body heater as my turbo cooling lines (it's all custom). I also have a bleed line from the front of the head into the top radiator hose.

[Maxter]

Hi, I'm sorry to throw this into the cold plug question but what's the easiest liquid source for watercoold turbos on the m42. I read some stuff in the e36 m42 forum about taking the heat exchanger plate out behind the throttle body. Makes some sense to me.

What setup do you guys have? Where does the water go back into the regular cycle?
Any recommendations?

I hope this wasn't discussed 10000 times before.

[jntar]

Lets talk colder plug options.

I have found that a gapable one step closer plug option is the NGK R5671A-7 (Part#4091). What other options are you guys going high boost going with?

[e30guydownunder]

With the head you either do nothing or everything with regards to porting. I have dropped in a set of Catcams from VAC and their springs/retainers. Nothing more and there isn't alot stopping me from going 400hp at the wheels (probably will the next time I am at the dyno).

Porting the head will make it much more efficient and is only a necessity if you want to drastically change the engine operating rpm, i.e. shooting for 8000+ rpm's with valve train to match or if you are really trying to squeeze every last hp out of it.

I would stick to a deck and valve job for a mild to fairly wild build in all other respects. If you are going full wild, oversize valves, solid lifters, springs and cams to match. This should be backed up with ARP hardware everywhere, Forged Pistons and Lightweight rods.

The later model BMW heads don't benefit (AS MUCH) from minor head work like older engines because the casting is of reasonably good quality.

That is my opinion anyway

[ccsdo5]

Okay people I have more dumbish question for you all!
So I was talking to a machine shop today and asking what I should look doing for this engine. So this is what I think I'm getting done.
Block:
- Hot Bath
- 85mm over bore and hone

Head:
- hot tank
- 5 angle valve job
- deck

Then also get the crank polished.

My question is, is it worth it to get the head port and polished? He also said the price to port and polish can range from $500-$5000 so what exactly should I do in this situation? HALP!!!!!

[jntar]

The oil tap on the back of the block is 1.5 pitch, but what size bolt? M12?

EDIT: Yes it is m12x1.5 for those wondering.