From knowing nothing to having a Thunderbird supercharger on an m20b27i

[Ether-D]

I think I'm gonna make my own scoop. Out of black walnut. I glued it up last night, and I'll start shaping it this evening I think.

[Q5Quint]

dont let the doubters doubt your hood scoop. They are correct in that there may be more efficient ways, but it will help a little as long as it is out in the air flow.

I had a massive 3" intercooler on my turbo and I had almost ambient IAT most of the time even after flogging it..... as long as I was moving. If you end up sitting in traffic a while it will always climb unless you have a big fan.....

I am going to use a slightly less giant intercooler this time and then rig up some ghetto h20/alchohol injection. If you are afraid to squirt directly into your engine like she is some crazy ex-gf who would lie about birth control, you can always squirt the outside of the cooler, too.

[Ether-D]

^You can do this for any thermistor type temp sensor. Just dunk it in ice water 32f (record reading with digital meter), boiling water 220f (record), and known room temp (record). Plug the numbers into ms and you're done. There are so many more styles than the GM one. I got a much better option for my setup because it's much lower profile and has the same connector as the rest of my engine. And Thanks!

[codrum]

For reference, if anyone else wants to use the ebay VW AIT ($7 and it has the same style connector as everything else in your bay) instead of the GM one ($20, plus awful fugly GM connector) for MS. I also checked my factory coolant temp sensor for gits and shiggles. Here are my findings.

Degrees (F) = ohms

OE coolant temp sender:
27.5 = 6000
71 = 2300
220 = 220

VW IAT sensor:
32 = 4340
68.7 = 2700
220 = 190

This is good info, I wish there was a repository somewhere that stored this (or a list of OE sensor datasheets). This would come in handy with my project when testing out other sensors, thanks for posting it.

[Ether-D]

No worries.

Got the belt and pulleys on and I wired the IAT sensor in to where the airflometer connector was.

Now I need to install the O2 sensor and controller and gauge. Then the 24.5lb injectors. Then I can get the Msquirt in there and get her started. Then tune for a bit.

Then the pump & reservoir and plumbing & electric for the intercooler. Then hood scoop. Then more tuning.

[TheTacoMan]

I think FLG and I will both agree the cooler you can get this setup to run the better it will be for Daily driving, even at low boost super charger still get hot.
Not trying to tear apart your ideas, just suggestions.

[Ether-D]

But fellas, this is not a track car. It's a relatively low powered daily driver. I think the tendency is to think I'm trying to milk every last ounce of power out of this. I'm not. I'm just building shit that I think is cool. That's what gets me high. Not making eleventy billion HP.

edit: But HPs are great too. I'm sure I'll gain several of them.

[TheTacoMan]

You are going to get better air flow at the front of the car versus trying to make a scoop.

Theres a reason why the hood scoop are so massive on stis.

[FLG]

Cfm rating on those fans is minimal. I've been a comp tech for years, only decent Cfm is 120-220v fans at that size. I've also built many water cooled pcs my last one used a car transmission cooler for passive cooling. Might want to look into something like that mounted far from the engine bay to minimize soak. I just can't see them blowing enough air to make a substantial difference.

Not doubting the build but I think you're going to have to change a few things to make it work better, at least consistently in terms of being able to beat on it for awhile without heat soaking killing things.

My turbo car gets crazy heat soak after runs, I've got massive holes in my hood, wide open intercooler and completely new cooling system, everything is heat wrapped and it's still becomes an issue if I keep things up for more then 3-4 runs on the track, but this is literally bouncing off the limiter, headers glowing, turbo glowing.

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk 2

[The Dark Side of Will]

Intercoolers are usually set up in front of the radiator, not behind it.

Subaru sets up their stock intercoolers there, fed by a scoop, but most high powered Subie guys go for a FMIC.

[Ether-D]

But I have to disagree. To say that you doubt that they will do anything, is kinda silly. How could those fans not be doing something? They blow a shitload of air through that radiator. The S/C is gonna blow a shit load of air across the identical radiator inside the manifold. There is going to be an opening in the hood directly above with a scoop for forced fresh air across it while cruising. Plus, those fans are only really to help while the car is stopped.

[Ether-D]

It's ok to doubt.

[FLG]

I like it.

Sorry to tell ya.. But I seriously doubt those fans will be doing anything. Best bet for lowering temps is gonna be meth.

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[Ether-D]

I like it.

[Ether-D]

For reference, if anyone else wants to use the ebay VW AIT ($7 and it has the same style connector as everything else in your bay) instead of the GM one ($20, plus awful fugly GM connector) for MS. I also checked my factory coolant temp sensor for gits and shiggles. Here are my findings.

Degrees (F) = ohms

OE coolant temp sender:
27.5 = 6000
71 = 2300
220 = 220

VW IAT sensor:
32 = 4340
68.7 = 2700
220 = 190