Quint, The TB (if you meant throttle body) was really not bad at all. Don't let it slow you down. I found that in the planning phase of it, I over thought it a lot. And it would get all complicated and I'd give up. I had to numb my brain a bit (safety meeting) while planning to get it simple enough. And I think it's perfect. Thanks again to all for the infos.
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From knowing nothing to having a Thunderbird supercharger on an m20b27i
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Originally posted by Andy.BWhenever I am about to make a particularly questionable decision regarding a worryingly cheap diy solution, I just ask myself, "What would Ether-D do?"
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O2 sensor is gonna be here today. That's it, I have everything. I think I just pooped myself a little...Originally posted by Andy.BWhenever I am about to make a particularly questionable decision regarding a worryingly cheap diy solution, I just ask myself, "What would Ether-D do?"
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As it turns out, I didn't poop my self, it was just a moist fart.
O2 is here, I ordered a lc1, got a lc2. I hear there is pretty much no difference. I'm working on the aftercooler's external heat exchanger at the moment. Just got all three fans mounted to the exchanger and wired to each other. Damn folks, it's almost time. I'm nervous.Originally posted by Andy.BWhenever I am about to make a particularly questionable decision regarding a worryingly cheap diy solution, I just ask myself, "What would Ether-D do?"
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Well, I've removed the airflometer to make the jumper to the IAT sensor. So it's not running again. Nobody wants to see it run without a belt anyhow. Right?
I haven't put the ms2 in there yet because I don't have the cable and adapter to hook it to my desktop so I can change the settings for the GM IAT sensor to my vw one. I got the ohm values by putting the sensor in ice water and recording the value, then boiling water, recorded the value, then room temp. Then you just plug the numbers into the ms2 and it figures it out.Originally posted by Andy.BWhenever I am about to make a particularly questionable decision regarding a worryingly cheap diy solution, I just ask myself, "What would Ether-D do?"
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For reference, if anyone else wants to use the ebay VW AIT ($7 and it has the same style connector as everything else in your bay) instead of the GM one ($20, plus awful fugly GM connector) for MS. I also checked my factory coolant temp sensor for gits and shiggles. Here are my findings.
Degrees (F) = ohms
OE coolant temp sender:
27.5 = 6000
71 = 2300
220 = 220
VW IAT sensor:
32 = 4340
68.7 = 2700
220 = 190Originally posted by Andy.BWhenever I am about to make a particularly questionable decision regarding a worryingly cheap diy solution, I just ask myself, "What would Ether-D do?"
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Originally posted by Andy.BWhenever I am about to make a particularly questionable decision regarding a worryingly cheap diy solution, I just ask myself, "What would Ether-D do?"
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Originally posted by Ether-D View PostI like it.
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It's ok to doubt.Originally posted by Andy.BWhenever I am about to make a particularly questionable decision regarding a worryingly cheap diy solution, I just ask myself, "What would Ether-D do?"
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But I have to disagree. To say that you doubt that they will do anything, is kinda silly. How could those fans not be doing something? They blow a shitload of air through that radiator. The S/C is gonna blow a shit load of air across the identical radiator inside the manifold. There is going to be an opening in the hood directly above with a scoop for forced fresh air across it while cruising. Plus, those fans are only really to help while the car is stopped.Originally posted by Andy.BWhenever I am about to make a particularly questionable decision regarding a worryingly cheap diy solution, I just ask myself, "What would Ether-D do?"
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Cfm rating on those fans is minimal. I've been a comp tech for years, only decent Cfm is 120-220v fans at that size. I've also built many water cooled pcs my last one used a car transmission cooler for passive cooling. Might want to look into something like that mounted far from the engine bay to minimize soak. I just can't see them blowing enough air to make a substantial difference.
Not doubting the build but I think you're going to have to change a few things to make it work better, at least consistently in terms of being able to beat on it for awhile without heat soaking killing things.
My turbo car gets crazy heat soak after runs, I've got massive holes in my hood, wide open intercooler and completely new cooling system, everything is heat wrapped and it's still becomes an issue if I keep things up for more then 3-4 runs on the track, but this is literally bouncing off the limiter, headers glowing, turbo glowing.
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But fellas, this is not a track car. It's a relatively low powered daily driver. I think the tendency is to think I'm trying to milk every last ounce of power out of this. I'm not. I'm just building shit that I think is cool. That's what gets me high. Not making eleventy billion HP.
edit: But HPs are great too. I'm sure I'll gain several of them.Last edited by Ether-D; 03-02-2014, 02:33 PM.Originally posted by Andy.BWhenever I am about to make a particularly questionable decision regarding a worryingly cheap diy solution, I just ask myself, "What would Ether-D do?"
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