M10 knowledge.

[E30_Pare]

ANY TIME you take your head off, GET NEW HEAD BOLTS! While the head is off, fill the bolt holes with brake clean to get the grime/shit out. Use Q-Tips to help get everything out of the holes. If you do not do this, when you torque your head bolts down, it will not be able to compress the grease/grime and the pressure in the holes will cause the block to crack at the bolt holes (Thus why I am using a 2002 block now)

Solo318: Any experience with a 304 cam?

Don't head bolts stretch which is why you shouldn't reuse them?

[Jaxx_]

Don't head bolts stretch which is why you shouldn't reuse them?

yes.

I have an M10 msq somewhere... its for factory motor, made 93whp/90ftlbs

[TobyB]

Don't head bolts stretch which is why you shouldn't reuse them?

Not on an M10. If they're not damaged, you can use 'em again and again and again...

ALL bolts stretch slightly when you tighten them. That's how they work.
On the M20/M42/M50 yadda yadda you stretch them into permanent distortion and thus they get replaced.

M10 and M30 are old technology and don't work that way...

Really. I've only proven it with about a half- dozen motors...

Blocks ARE different. They are NOT the same. Good luck trying to bolt up your passenger side motor mount on a 2.0l block

...except that the 2l blocks went through about 6 iterations, and they lost weight each time. They all kept the old 2002 bosses
(not always drilled) but got new ones with the E21. Which I THINK you can use in the E30. But a 2002 early block weighs close to #110, an early E21 about #100,
a late E21 closer to #95, and the one E30 block I weighed was right around #90. I seem to remember, approximately, about...

t

[E30_Pare]

Some good stuff in here ppl. Keep it coming!

[solo318]

On a street car you don't want a 304 cam, the reverse pulse from the over lap will massively screw with the air meter, Not to mention that you will have basicaly no power till well over 4k rpm,
If your running the air meter at all, don't go over a 292.
The e30 m10 block is indeed 30 to 40 pounds lighter than an early o2 block, BUT, the earlier blocks have more substance and hold up better to builds.

[Smelser]

On a street car you don't want a 304 cam, the reverse pulse from the over lap will massively screw with the air meter, Not to mention that you will have basicaly no power till well over 4k rpm,
If your running the air meter at all, don't go over a 292.
The e30 m10 block is indeed 30 to 40 pounds lighter than an early o2 block, BUT, the earlier blocks have more substance and hold up better to builds.

Just a quick question, Running a stock injection and fuel managed engine. Stock ignition save a nicer epoxy filled coil. Is there anyway to just delete the massive air box and air meter and still get some sort of runability?
Using it on the track, its normally full throttle, then burp and feather thru the turn sideways then back to full throttle again.

and if so or not. would the 292 cam be enough or would the bigger make MUCH more gains? the engine prob wont rev much past 6ish idealy.

[E30_Pare]

Just a quick question, Running a stock injection and fuel managed engine. Stock ignition save a nicer epoxy filled coil. Is there anyway to just delete the massive air box and air meter and still get some sort of runability?
Using it on the track, its normally full throttle, then burp and feather thru the turn sideways then back to full throttle again.

and if so or not. would the 292 cam be enough or would the bigger make MUCH more gains? the engine prob wont rev much past 6ish idealy.

The only way to get rid of the afm is to go mega squirt & maf. Or go carbbed Check the first page "m10 modding"

[Hey_You]

Yes, I feel carbs would be your best bet Smelser. The stock EFI m10 will not run without an AFM. If you don't believe me, run your engine, and unplug it while it's running.

[TobyB]

BUT, the earlier blocks have more substance and hold up better to builds.

Well, 'mostly'- there IS a lot more cylinder wall, so massive overbore's possible IF there
wasn't core misalignment or voids... which there wasn't, very often. And that'll also
add to detonation resistance.
But the E30 block is much more modern in its gussetting- it's claimed that it is actually
a lot more dimensionally stable than the early blocks. It certainly LOOKS it-
there's a LOT of metal in a 2002 block that's just ballast.
The next M10 race motor I build will use an E30 block for weight savings, but if I was
building an E30 turbo/nitrous/whatever, I think I'd take your advice and find the earliest
block that had the right bosses I could, and then have it sonically imaged.
Because I agree, if weight's no object, there's a LOT of meat in the early blocks.

That said, you COULD modify brackets to run a 2002 block.
But that's a lot of work for something that probably wouldn't make that much difference
on a street car...

t

[E30_Pare]

That was my reasoning also^ if weight wasnt an issue. However boost w/ early block the power gains alone should off set the extra w8 added to the front end. I just thinking if I'm not planning an over bore & I already have a motor with a known history. Couldn't hurt to boost the e30 m10. The anorexic cousin of its prehistoric predecessors. Just won't know until I try it. Will just have to keel it extra clean & check/double triple check before running it to have the best chance of success. If it maintains reliability Then should be a win win Haven't yet to find any boost builds with the e30 m10 as of yet.

[Hey_You]

HSVturbo's Build
Ask and you shall receive. He is a member on here too, but doesn't update on this forum.

[E30_Pare]

Doh. Forgot I posted that build on the first page

[Jaxx_]

you could run ljet with no afm, but you would need something else to signal airflow. In essence, more trouble than it's really worth, but it is possible with a maf and micro controller.

[E30_Pare]

What color coolant? Valve adjustment .010 exhaust .008 intake?

[TobyB]

I do mine at .007 hot...

t