DIY: Delete M10 IAC and cold start injector.

Collapse
X
 
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts
  • loki_
    Advanced Member
    • Sep 2013
    • 147

    #1

    DIY: Delete M10 IAC and cold start injector.

    I've run this setup for about 60,000 miles without any issues.














    $12 Z1 intake flange

    $2.99 vacuum caps
  • AEdward
    Noobie
    • Feb 2016
    • 33

    #2
    Will try this but Do you have any pics of where the hose from fuel rail goes to? Thanks!

    Comment

    • TobyB
      R3V Elite
      • Oct 2011
      • 5168

      #3
      I've also seen the E21 mechanical warmup regulator used...

      t
      now, sometimes I just mess with people. It's more entertaining that way. george graves

      Comment

      • loki_
        Advanced Member
        • Sep 2013
        • 147

        #4
        Originally posted by AEdward
        Will try this but Do you have any pics of where the hose from fuel rail goes to? Thanks!

        you'd run one piece of fuel line from the rail to the fuel filter.

        Comment

        • Pavane
          Noobie
          • Feb 2017
          • 17

          #5
          Thanks for this. How's your idle when the engine is cold and warmed up?

          Comment

          • packratbimmer
            E30 Fanatic
            • Dec 2009
            • 1329

            #6
            That should be fine in warmer climates, but warm up here in the north would be difficult.

            Comment

            • loki_
              Advanced Member
              • Sep 2013
              • 147

              #7
              Originally posted by Pavane
              Thanks for this. How's your idle when the engine is cold and warmed up?


              i have my cold idle set at about 950 and warm idle at about 1200. in the winter i have to bump it up maybe a 1/4 turn to account for the colder air decreased the idle.

              Comment

              • jRonin
                Noobie
                • Nov 2018
                • 10

                #8
                Just ordered a cover today.. mine has all sort of wierd going on.. everything tests okay, but rpm is steady at 1500.. gonna do the delete as a “test” and see if anything changes.

                UPDATE: So, it seems my fuel system is set up slightly different (or I’m just being dumb).. there are 2 separate hard lines that come into the engine compartment by the driver side wheel area.. one line goes to the filter, which is then connected to the rail.. The second is routed straight to the pressure regulator.. there’s no T junction to the cold injector, it was routed directly to a second port on the rail.. I’m not sure which fuel line to connect where..
                Last edited by jRonin; 12-22-2018, 03:08 PM.

                Comment

                • jRonin
                  Noobie
                  • Nov 2018
                  • 10

                  #9
                  Originally posted by jRonin
                  UPDATE: So, it seems my fuel system is set up slightly different (or I’m just being dumb).. there are 2 separate hard lines that come into the engine compartment by the driver side wheel area.. one line goes to the filter, which is then connected to the rail.. The second is routed straight to the pressure regulator.. there’s no T junction to the cold injector, it was routed directly to a second port on the rail.. I’m not sure which fuel line to connect where..

                  Looking for some guidance on fuel line plumbing.. I’ve checked a few other posts, but haven’t seen anything regarding what lines to connect where for the cold injector delete.. Gonna start a thread tomorrow if I don’t find anything by then.

                  Comment

                  • Sonny
                    Banned
                    • Feb 2019
                    • 100

                    #10
                    I'm doing this now, anybody notice downsides of doing this?

                    Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk

                    Comment

                    • tractionzero
                      Noobie
                      • Apr 2019
                      • 2

                      #11
                      When i get my car back running I will try this ! I am so tired of all the mess on the m10 motor :(. My one buddies s2000 is so tidy, and my buddies supra with 2jz is super tidy as well... I just want a clean engine bay and reliable e30 :P

                      Comment

                      • Alex18i
                        Noobie
                        • Jan 2014
                        • 13

                        #12
                        How the heck do you adjust your idle with this mod ?
                        Pulling the accel cable a bit or what ?
                        I already bought the plate , but here gas aint cheap to do this :/

                        Comment

                        • Jaxx_
                          E30 Mastermind
                          • Dec 2009
                          • 1880

                          #13
                          Originally posted by Alex18i
                          How the heck do you adjust your idle with this mod ?
                          Pulling the accel cable a bit or what ?
                          I already bought the plate , but here gas aint cheap to do this :/
                          there is a butterfly valve stop adjustment on the throttle body.
                          '84 318i M10B18 147- Safari Beige
                          NA: 93whp/90ftlbs, MS2E w/ LC, 2-Step
                          Turbo: 221whp/214ftlbs, MS3x flex @ 17psi

                          Comment

                          • packratbimmer
                            E30 Fanatic
                            • Dec 2009
                            • 1329

                            #14
                            Keep in mind that if you make this modification, you might need to play with the throttle switch as well. After you adjust idle at the throttle plate, the throttle switch will likely be off now.

                            If you do it: Use a 325e/325i distributor cap bolt and a tail light nut (8mm) to make a new butterfly stop screw. You will need to tweak it here and there so it will be easier with a better piece of hardware there. Put a drop of blue thread locker on the threads so it will not wander. The nut is for locking it in place

                            Comment

                            • BadDays
                              Member
                              • Dec 2024
                              • 58

                              #15
                              I'm basically reviving a dead thread here but I need to know where the butterfly valve adjustment is on the throttle body? Unless I need to play with my throttle cable to set the idle, I'm wondering how you would go about adjusting the idle here.
                              Click image for larger version

Name:	20251103_123146.jpg
Views:	0
Size:	151.9 KB
ID:	10150257

                              Comment

                              Working...