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Well God... it's me again

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    Well God... it's me again

    I have an e30 that I have been trying to get running right and it hasn't for a while now. What is happening is:

    The car starts up no issue but sounds God awful and goes down to sub 500 rpms where its stumbling over itself almost like too much or too little fuel. There is a tick from the front near the fpr but I used a screwdriver and couldn't verify the source. *side not the alternator belt is tight and needs to be loosened* but I give it revs and it eats it up but then goes back down and starts to die again. *another note there is some oil on the tps connector could be residual as it has been replaced and tested* I've replaced a lot so I'm getting close to calling it quits but I thought last ditch effort ask for some help here!

    Here is what has been replaced

    From previous owner:
    Timing belt
    Water pump
    Radiator
    Some junk ass wiring

    What I've done:
    O2 sensor
    In line Fuel pump and 1 of 2 fuel filters
    Fuel injectors with rebuilt ones (autohauz)
    AFM with rebuilt one (autohauz)
    Tested with another ecu, and dme(no change)
    New spark plugs
    Head gasket
    Spark plugs
    Distributor cap
    Distributor rotor
    Fuel pressure regulator with 3.0 used and 2.5 new ones (no changes for the most part)
    Fuel rail
    Replaced all gaskets when doing the head gasket
    Got the head tested and cleaned (it passed)
    Cylinders looked good with factory cross hatching still there
    New brake booster vacuum line
    New crankcase to intake tube
    Tested IAC (good) also unplugged it and it does make a difference
    Tested idle fuel injector and it makes a difference
    Water temp sensor (both the blue and brown connectors) Tested the thermotime switch (big boy in the front) good
    New alternator (turned out to be the light behind the dash was out)
    New maintance board( the one behind the dash that usually has batteries on it) replaced with a baterless board
    New TPS
    New engine air filter
    New throttle cable

    Probably a couple more things as well but that's the majority.

    Here is the video of what it sounds like as of today:




    I appreciate any and all help as this is my baby and I want to keep the original motor in it but I have a built 350 chevy motor that's waiting for its next build too.

    Thanks!
    -Trevor​

    #2
    read through this and see if this might help you out.


    88' Seta 2.7i Zinno

    https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/for...430-my-88-seta

    Comment


      #3
      Originally posted by It's Soda Not Pop View Post
      read through this and see if this might help you out.

      https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/for...30-jedi-master
      Thank you ill take some notes 📝

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by turtlerevor View Post

        Thank you ill take some notes 📝
        no worries

        88' Seta 2.7i Zinno

        https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/for...430-my-88-seta

        Comment


          #5
          *SOLUTION*

          After rechecked timing still that not even 1 tooth off I checked the valves and tested for clearance and they were TIGHT like ungodly on both .010 and .008 I ended up adjusting them to .010 and fixed the coolant leak I knew about and it started right up and sounded a million times better and was able to idle. Had it idle by itself for a couple minutes and it seemed to do an idle learn and now it's running great!

          Comment


            #6
            Glad you got it sorted out.

            How often are you supposed to do valve clearances on the M20 anyways?
            I did mine once, but then swapped the engine for a 24v before it needed to be done again.

            Comment


              #7
              Its supposed to be pretty often.20,000km or so. "Every second oil change" also comes to mind.

              I do mine every year but that really works out to be like 4000km or so (I like tinkering...) and I usually find a few that need minor adjustment.

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by Panici View Post
                Glad you got it sorted out.

                How often are you supposed to do valve clearances on the M20 anyways?
                I did mine once, but then swapped the engine for a 24v before it needed to be done again.
                M20s should have their valves adjusted every 15,000 miles/24,000 kilometers.
                1986 325e Schwarz (sold)
                1989 325iX Alpineweiß​ (daily)


                Greed is Good

                Comment


                  #9
                  I had an M20 that sounded similar (tick was consistent) and I believe it was wore out rocker(s). No matter how much I adjusted rockers (righter or lose) it ticked, but ran great. If that helps anyone. Also...

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