Vibes (the bad kind) and dual culprits?

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  • Maybe Magpie
    Advanced Member
    • Apr 2020
    • 129

    #1

    Vibes (the bad kind) and dual culprits?

    Bottom line up front: Car vibrates at all speeds, and both gearbox and engine are suspects. Would like suggestions. It's not enough I'm alarmed but enough it annoys me. I know balancing a quarter on an M20 is maybe too high an expectation but I'd struggle to imagine it balancing much of anything that was taller than it was wide right now. When not in 4th/not highway speeds it seems to be mostly engine, when in 4th at highway speeds in particular it feels more like a gearbox source thing.

    What's been done recently or recently-ish: New motor mounts this spring, fresh transmission mounts (~year old or so), both are rubber. Ignition system is fairly fresh (5yish, cap and leads were replaced), front suspension done this spring, rear is to-do. Transmission was swapped, resealed and given Redline fluid (AT->5spd), new driveshaft, bushings, guibos CSB etc etc. Diff function tested fine. Got recommendation from driveshaft shop to do the motor mounts as that often solves it and it's a new driveshaft that was allegedly tested before shipping. Motor mounts improved it somewhat but in 4th gear I still get notable vibration but 1, 2, 3, 5 all are fine. ICV was given some cleaning out, no difference. Valves were adjusted about 3000 miles ago so I strongly doubt they're the culprit. Sparkplugs are similar age. ECU stomp test returned no error codes (1444 clear). CPS was replaced when I bought the car 5y ago, intake boots were within the past few years as well. Injectors are a bit tired but not so much I think this'd be the cause. I ran some MMO through with a tank of fuel, no change. I've put about 10k on it in the past 5 years, usually 2-ish a year (I don't commute every day but it's my daily), to give you an idea of wear. Mostly in-town but some highway stuff and last spirited autocross was June '24. Blue coolant was flushed like two years ago as well, and is still lookin' fine. I'm slightly overdue on oil timewise but it's only been about 3000mi and I used a full synthetic.

    Granted have an exhaust leak at the downpipe to headers flange that I'm going to tackle after some medical hiatus from car working (probably in a couple months) but this vibratory issue predates that having made itself known, it mostly just causes more engine grime and a slightly extended cold start. I intend to resolve that obviously, but when I do, any pointers as to what else to look at? I'm also likely doing my timing belt and water pump and coolant hoses at the same time, later this year ideally, so while I'm monkeying around with the engine... Rebuilt greentops will happen when I get a SSSquid chip. No smoke at tailpipe, no backfiring, oil looked fine when last changed.

    Wheels and tires were balanced last year, so it ain't those.
    Last edited by Maybe Magpie; 08-05-2026, 03:10 PM.
    i'm in love with german cars // gliding past me on the autobahn

    stainless idols with silent hearts // never turning as we drift apart
  • digger
    R3V OG
    • Nov 2005
    • 6142

    #2
    Is the vibration felt through body or steering wheel or both? front or rear? had a rear passenger sit in there and give feedback?
    New genuine DS or aftermarket?
    you can possibly eliminate the engine/FW/clutch by driving under conditions where it would vibrate and turn engine off (obviously done in a safe location) and also repeat but put in neutral
    89 E30 325is Lachs Silber - currently M20B31, M20B33 in the works, stroked to the hilt...

    new build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=317505

    Comment

    • Maybe Magpie
      Advanced Member
      • Apr 2020
      • 129

      #3
      Originally posted by digger
      Is the vibration felt through body or steering wheel or both? front or rear? had a rear passenger sit in there and give feedback?
      New genuine DS or aftermarket?
      you can possibly eliminate the engine/FW/clutch by driving under conditions where it would vibrate and turn engine off (obviously done in a safe location) and also repeat but put in neutral
      Aftermarket, PTI serviceable u-joint. Allegedly was balanced out of the gate and my shop that helped me with install has done multiple 5-spd swaps in e30s to the point of having a package quote didn't find anything out of whack with it. Mostly seat and tunnel though a bit from the wheel. Definitely seems front biased, some tunnel. Haven't had a rear passenger in a while. OE FW was resurf'd by a well-regarded auto machinist shop and balanced with fresh OEM clutch (LuK I believe) and ARP hardware when 5-speed swap was done (new throwout bearing, new clutch fork and secondary cylinder, CSB as mentioned, new seals including rear main, the works short of rebuilding the whole Getrag.). FWIW the stick noticeably jiggles even in neutral, though not a crazy amount. I'll try to snag a video when I get a chance, but that may be a while due to the aforementioned medical stuff comin' up (I'll be fine). No play in the bearings I could find when I did my front suspension. Speaking of: shocks, M3 endlinks conversion with Meyle HD links, all the shims and boots and mounts and buffers, front tower mounts, sway bushings, FCABs, control arms, engine mounts, alignment done at a pro shop. Don't think it's that either. I do have a Stromung catback which is louder and more vibratey than stock, but not this much.

      I'll give the neutral/engine off test a try when I'm back on my feet, but fwiw neutral didn't seem to make a huge difference aside from the highway 4th thing.

      Thanks!
      i'm in love with german cars // gliding past me on the autobahn

      stainless idols with silent hearts // never turning as we drift apart

      Comment

      • 82eye
        R3VLimited
        • Jan 2009
        • 2061

        #4
        Originally posted by Maybe Magpie

        Aftermarket, PTI serviceable u-joint. Allegedly was balanced out of the gate and my shop that helped me with install has done multiple 5-spd swaps in e30s to the point of having a package quote didn't find anything out of whack with it.

        when bushings / mounts are eliminated as a source it usually comes back to the driveshaft and csb. i know they've been replaced but there are enough threads with the same issue on new / rebuilt driveshafts that i would look at them. i've also installed a csb incorrectly that was fine for a period but went bad quick enough. i lived in denial until replacing it and the issue went away.


        Originally posted by Maybe Magpie
        Mostly seat and tunnel though a bit from the wheel. Definitely seems front biased, some tunnel.
        this is the common description on driveshaft / csb issues. the vibration is typically hard to pinpoint. i'm not certain this is the problem, but it's where i'd have a hard look.


        edit:
        Originally posted by Maybe Magpie
        Rebuilt greentops will happen when I get a SSSquid chip.
        just as an aside sssquid recommended going to a modern open pintle 4 hole injector when i chipped the car. they are more efficient with a little smoother idle and slightly better running condition. it's not a huge change but i did notice the car runs better.

        i run a regrind cam, hd rockers, ie longtubes, stromung catback, custom catless x-pipe mid, rhd lw flywheel, pan baffle, and a crank scraper. bottom end and crank were rebalanced. it's a mild build similar to your direction.

        91 octane sssquid stage 1.5 chip
        Last edited by 82eye; Yesterday, 09:39 PM.

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