Trying to summarize Super eta (S-eta) stroker build info.

[phenryiv1]

I'm not certain what you are asking here If you have a donor car that has everyhting, why would you be worry about what you ahve and dont have? couldnt you just take it as you go along?

Sorry, I should have specified...the donor is in a junk yard. I tried to buy the whole car, but they wanted too much.

[884door]

I think that is a pretty safe assumption.

[thereisnoyun]

I'm not certain what you are asking here If you have a donor car that has everyhting, why would you be worry about what you ahve and dont have? couldnt you just take it as you go along?

[phenryiv1]

Last question (for now). This deals with sourcing parts form a donor.

If pulling the necessary parts from the donor vehicle, is it accurate to say that if one pulls the cylinder head and everything in front of/on top of it (all the way out to the airbox) as well as all lines/hoses that attach to the head or anything bolted above it, I should have all of the necessary underhood parts to build the stroker on a super eta?

On top of that, the cluster, DME, and alternator are needed. The "i" brake booster would be a plus, as would be the radiator.

Anything else NEEDED from the donor? All of the parts are being pulled today, but I am putting eyes on the donor when I pick up the parts, just to be sure that they got every line and hose that I might need.

[phenryiv1]

It is like the well of knowledge has opened up...I drinketh abundantly.

[Flash]

The difference between the super eta harmonic balancer and the 325i harmonic balancer is that the pulley size is a little different, and the 325i is heavier, just by a little. On the backside of the balancer the weight goes about 4mm to the teeth, and the super eta was about half way to the teeth from the center of the balancer....if that makes any sense.
You would never know unless you had both side by side however since out of the corner of your eye it appears to be the same.
You dont need to change it really, the balancer is just a function of the weight of the rotating assembly, and of course...pulley size to denote slowing down or speeding up every accessory.

[reelizmpro]

No and no. Super ETA is already Motronic 1.1, the swap is as easy as swapping the DME. No need to change the thermostat housing either. Some housings (etas) have sensors there, some are plugged and some don't have any ports at all.

[nando]

you already have the 60-2 crank trigger wheel and your thermostat housing is the same

flash pretty much nailed it

[phenryiv1]

Someone on e30tech mentioned the Crank Trigger Wheel and thermostat housing from an "i" as well.

I have never heard of the first item being necessary, and can't figure out why the second one would be.

Thoughts?

[phenryiv1]

Yeah, I couldn't believe that no one had mentioned the seta has the right head until a few posts ago.

UGHHH...I can't believe that was not in my first post. I know that the S-eta already has the 885 head (the "i" head") from the factory. I thought it was in there, btu in looking back, I don't think that I actually SAID that in the post.
Edit: Okay, it IS in there but it is buried in a wikipedia quote that is buried in another post that I quoted in my wall of text.

For further reference: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/BMW_M20#Super_Eta_based

Super Eta based

The easiest is to start with a September 1987 onward Super Eta and installing a 325i cam and springs, a complete 325i intake manifold and throttle and plugging in the 325i engine control unit. Depending on which cam, chip and intake is used, this combination can make 180-200hp with the stock 8.5:1 compression ratio and will rev to 7500rpm.

(not sure I'd go to 7500)

Shameless plug, I will probably have a 173 with a mark d clone and 19lb injectors for sale soon.. ;)

Send me a PM when you get ready to sell. Depending on where I am in my build, I may be interested.

[Wh33lhop]

Yeah, I couldn't believe that no one had mentioned the seta has the right head until a few posts ago.

For further reference: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/BMW_M20#Super_Eta_based

Super Eta based

The easiest is to start with a September 1987 onward Super Eta and installing a 325i cam and springs, a complete 325i intake manifold and throttle and plugging in the 325i engine control unit. Depending on which cam, chip and intake is used, this combination can make 180-200hp with the stock 8.5:1 compression ratio and will rev to 7500rpm.

(not sure I'd go to 7500)

Shameless plug, I will probably have a 173 with a mark d clone and 19lb injectors for sale soon.. ;)

[phenryiv1]

The TPS is under the throttle body, the ECU is held on by using a 10mm socket, about 6 inches of extension and a ratchet, above the glove box.
You already have the correct injectors, do yourself a favor and send them to cruzin performance to get rebuilt for CHEAP and correctly.
Ive done this swap on about 20 cars for people, BTDT, but its a complete list.
Only other things i forgot were oil, filter, and coolant (phosphate fee), with distilled water.
If you are a newbie, make sure to bleed the coolant :D

Thanks a bunch for the help. Half of the stroker threads deal with putting eta parts into an "i" car, and 45% deal with adding the "i" top end to an eta car. The other 5% don't specify.

There is a TON of info here on building the motors, but VERY little info out there that clearly says where the user started- meaning, did they start with an i, e, or s-eta on the build.

While everyone says that the 1988 S-eta seems to be the EASIEST one to build, the HOW to build (specific to an s-eta) is really hard to find in the midst of all of the i and e information.

[Flash]

The TPS is under the throttle body, the ECU is held on by using a 10mm socket, about 6 inches of extension and a ratchet, above the glove box.
You already have the correct injectors, do yourself a favor and send them to cruzin performance to get rebuilt for CHEAP and correctly.
Ive done this swap on about 20 cars for people, BTDT, but its a complete list.
Only other things i forgot were oil, filter, and coolant (phosphate fee), with distilled water.
If you are a newbie, make sure to bleed the coolant :D

[phenryiv1]

If you have a super eta, this is all you need period....

325i 173 ECU
325i inner valve springs
325i cam
325i intake manifold
325i throttle body
325i throttle position switch
325i intake bellows
325i air flow meter
325i 3.0 fuel pressure regulator
325i vacuum line from brake booster, to bellows, and to throttle body side



thats it, nothing more, nothing less.
If your head is only drilled for 4 journals its like 20 bucks at a machine shop to get the additional holes drilled. You need a timing belt and tensioner, head gasket set, head bolt set, and water pump. Thats it.

Im still surprised that with all this information available there is still so much misinformation.

THIS is a definitive list for the super eta, its tried and true, other parts eliminated via realoem, you already have 325i injectors, wiring harness, pump etc...

Thank you for this list.

On the donor, where should I look to pull the throttle position switch?

Also, what is the best way to pull the 173? Is it under/behind/above the glove box?

[884door]

How about the FPR and the injectors?

You need both from a 325i.