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my car is being major PITA this week... little help
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Originally posted by ubernasty View PostReally?
I was mostly just curious why the gauge jumps around. I figured the o2 is what's causing the problem tho.
Alright well i'm off to the bar to drink away my problems, maybe if i get drunk enough my car will be good by the morning hah.
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Originally posted by ubernasty View Postfuck. nevermind. its a ground.... i just wanna have it connected to the oem location cus i'm ocd like that.
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Originally posted by nando View Postit probably jumps around because your car has air in the cooling system. you lose power because the coolant sensor is a primary source for calculating the amount of fuel to be injected. the O2 is just a minor correction factor, for the most part.
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Originally posted by nando View Postit probably jumps around because your car has air in the cooling system. you lose power because the coolant sensor is a primary source for calculating the amount of fuel to be injected. the O2 is just a minor correction factor, for the most part.
I think that they are 2 diff sensors...one sensor for motronic the other for the temp guage88 325ic ~~~> Rusty and ugly
85 E ~~~> RIP
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Originally posted by ubernasty View PostAlright, i just hooked the ground back up and now it won't even run? It'll start with some throttle rev to 3k then fall back down and stall.
Oh and it smells like fuel strong.
I've ben drinking and I'm joking, but for srs bsns, why did you even need to change the oil pan? If all you did was change the oil pan (or the shop did, whatever), I don't see why you're having these problems. And if you were in Cali I'd drive to you and help figure this out.
So everything wrked fine before changing the oil pan? And that's all the "shop" did? Did they say how they did it?
MattMatt
Originally posted by slammin.e28guyI pack my CD player with asbestos. Those mother fuckers pay dearly for stealing my shit.Originally posted by kronustry whacking parts of the motor with a wrench while yelling "YOU WANT SUMMA DIS? HUH?"Originally posted by chadthestampedeThis is like a reverse build thread; it starts out nice and gets shitty.
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I said fan clutch, because unless I'm misreading, the car is doing fine on the highway, but not so good around town.Need parts now? Need them cheap? steve@blunttech.com
Chief Sales Officer, Midwest Division—Blunt Tech Industries
www.gutenparts.com
One stop shopping for NEW, USED and EURO PARTS!
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Originally posted by kid325e View PostI think you're doing it wrong. You should probably pay to let some hacks do work to your car, you're no better!
Originally posted by E30Nova View PostDid you connect the positive cable to ground? ;)
I've ben drinking and I'm joking, but for srs bsns, why did you even need to change the oil pan? If all you did was change the oil pan (or the shop did, whatever), I don't see why you're having these problems. And if you were in Cali I'd drive to you and help figure this out.
So everything wrked fine before changing the oil pan? And that's all the "shop" did? Did they say how they did it?
Matt
Originally posted by z31maniac View PostI said fan clutch, because unless I'm misreading, the car is doing fine on the highway, but not so good around town.
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Since we have already established that the shop that did the work was a bunch of fuckups..it might be time to start checking other unrelated components and connections they may have fucked up along the way.
-Is your AFM plug secure?
-No vac leaks?
-Pull the vac line from the FPR..see if its dry. Fuel in there means the FPR is bad/leaking.
-Investigate fuel odor. are injectors leaking? Engine just flooding?
-Reset DME and see if the reving at start thing persist.
I had issues with my oil pan ground strap for a while. So for good measure, I went to auto parts store and bought 2 long ground cables for 7 bucks. Attached one from the strut tower to the intake manny, and the other from the alternator bracket to the chassis. This smoothed out my idle, and helped starting. Worth a try.
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