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I think maybe just the tip is sodium filled. and M20 valve stems aren't that small, try a newer BMW engine. I think the E90 M3 V8 has 5mm valve stems. :o
I've got a couple extras, maybe I'll cut one open to find out.
Inquiring minds need to know!!
If they are don't let any sweat drip on it when you get it cut open!!
I think that they were $500 with rings and dowels. If you are starting from scratch I'd recommend getting custom pistons, though. I only went with these because I had already commited to this setup when I found out that my block would need to be overbored to get straight walls. Simply honing them wasn't going to do it. As a result, the used seta pistons that I have would've been bouncing off the cylinder walls. By buying new pistons I was able to have the cylinders matched to the pistons and they are all essentially identical. It turned out for the better, albiet far more expensive.
Just out of curiousity, how would you set up a head to run the 284/272 cam, nando?
Sorry to thread jack.
well I did it with new BMW springs, Febi rockers, and BMW valves.. but ideally the springs should be stiffer, +1mm valves, and a port job focusing on the valve seats and bowls, and also the CC. Not much changes to the port inlets or outlets. It's working OK for what it is, though.
Word on the grapevine is you can get forged 2.8 pistons for the eta crank and i rods for $600. I have the order ref# somewhere. I was thinking of organizing a group buy to try and get them for $500 during tax season.
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I purchased my beehive valve springs and stock diameter stainless valves from Metric Mechanic. Their valves are designed and shaped to take advantage of the M20's flow characteristics, many quality aftermarket race valves you find like Ferrea, Supertec, etc are not optimal for flow on an M20 due to their rather generic undercut stem and head design.
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