Pulling an M20

[5Toes]

Well I think I will get the car situated on jackstands the way Janderson described and use just the front lifting point. I will ensure it is solid before hand (as in all the bolts torqued up to spec)

[TimKninja]

I didn't use a load leveler ether one of the times pulling my M20 (Twice). I Recommend having two lift points. But you done have too. Just keep a GOOD eye on the hook of the engine hoist. Used a chain when dropping the M50 in, helps a lot.


There will be ATF EVERYWHERE if you don't drain the tranny.

Seatbelts work nicely as well.

[5Toes]

Luckily, my friend's Dad owns the local transmission shop, so I will be getting my tranny flushed.

I will drain it first

[Oly_Schmidt]

Some decent workarounds have been listed here but a leveler is only 39 bucks at Northern Tools. http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200485246_200485246?cm_mmc=Google-pla-_-Auto%20Repair-_-Engine%20Hoists%20%2B%20Stands-_-21063&ci_sku=21063&ci_gpa=pla&ci_kw={keyword}

Seems like alotta effort (and risk) to save that kind of money. Plus, after you remove that engine, you may want to put another one in... Just sayin.

[5Toes]

I could get the load leveler at Harbor Freight. I guess whats $50.. lol

[lolcantturn]

Andew... I don't think you have the capabilities to do this, just save up the money and pay a local shop. This isn't going to be like anything you've experienced before. I mean, you have had some trouble with some pretty basic stuff already and this is a lot more intense and in-depth.

That being said, im sure you'll try it anyway so good luck, take things slow and use your head.

Have some faith in the kid. Pulling a motor isn't entirely TOOOOOOOOOO difficult, its a big chunk of matter. I for one think he can do it, granted he takes his time, but pulling a motor isn't difficult at all, I think it's a bit tedious that's all.

Also you don't need a load leveler. Get a jack with good wheels under the transmission with the wheels facing the front and rear of the car and the motor will slide right out..jack accordingly with how you want the motor to be angled. If you're not gonna pull your shift lever be careful with it scraping the trans tunnel, VERY easy to snap.

[KenC]

Why not pop over to Harbor Freight and get a load leveler? It'll make it a lot easier.

[Cinnabar325is]

I pulled my M20 with an engine hoist but no load leveler like you're doing. I used a chain to the front bracket (still bent the crap out of it, I'd be wary of using it alone, especially with the trans attached). I also used a ratchet strap secured around the whole motor near the rear of the oil pan. Was reasonably balanced and allowed me to angle the front of the motor up like it needs to be to get the trans snout out.

[Sagaris]

I pulled mine using only the front lift hook and it bent the crap out of it. It is dangerous to JUST lift it by that point and I don't recommend it but it can be done. You will need to crank the engine hoist up pretty high so make sure you have a tall enough ceiling if you are doing it in a garage.

I got the Harbor Freight load leveler to install the engine and wished I would have had it for the removal. It is much more confidence inspiring and made the job much easier than it could have been.

[slammin.e28]

I've never used a load leveler and used chains and taken them out the top and dropped them out the bottom and installed them from the bottom and never put them back in.

Dropping out the bottom is the best. Hands down. Fuck hoisting them up into the air and worrying about shit. It's just as hard, if not easier, to drop the subframe and go from there.

Of course, having a lift is primo. I've done it without. Sucks balls bro.

[iamsam]

pulling an M20 from an E30 is easy. I always just use the front lift point. It will bend to accommodate the angle the engine/trans takes of course, but it has worked out great for me.

Just remove the exhaust, heat shielding, drive shaft, and then pull the ecu plug through the firewall, unplug any other connectors spanning from chassis to motor, coolant hoses, fuel lines, then remove radiator and fan, then remove trans mounts, put a jack under the trans, then unbolt the motor mounts, and lift 'er out. That's all there is to it.

[Oly_Schmidt]

Slammin is right. Fuck the leveler, get a hoist.:)

I'd let you borrow my leveler, since you're just across the Sound, but I'm in the middle of a swap right now myself and it's got an M20 hanging from it.;-)

[Mlarsen]

Like John said, take your time.

One piece of advice, label shit and keep everything organized.

You'll be fine, hopefully.

[5Toes]

I will label everything, some things I know I am going to label in my head right now are:

which fuel line is which
Charcoal canister lines
Vac hoses are pretty straightforward, but might as well label them
Various electrical stuff

I dont have access to a lift, and I dont really feel like dropping the subframe.

Weather is great today (WOOT), so I am actually going to start. Ill get the hoist tomorrow.

As far as the front lift hook bending.. do you guys bend it back to put it back on or..?

[Sagaris]

I will label everything, some things I know I am going to label in my head right now are:

which fuel line is which
Charcoal canister lines
Vac hoses are pretty straightforward, but might as well label them
Various electrical stuff

I dont have access to a lift, and I dont really feel like dropping the subframe.

Weather is great today (WOOT), so I am actually going to start. Ill get the hoist tomorrow.

As far as the front lift hook bending.. do you guys bend it back to put it back on or..?

Yes you bend it back, although since it is aluminum it doesnt like being bent too much. A new hook is ~$16 so its not the end of the world if it goes completely to hell.

I definitely recommend removing the ECU Plug through the firewall and pulling the motor with all the electrical attached. That way you really only need to disconnect that, the oil pan ground wire, the strut tower ground wire, the coil wires, the main round electrical harness next to the fuse box on the firewall, the AFM plug, the + to the B+ block behind the passenger strut tower, and the 3 relays on the driver strut tower. Beyond that you have the 2 heater hose lines coming out of the firewall, the power steering lines, the exhaust manifold, driveshaft, auto trans cooler lines, shift linkage, throttle valve cable, auto trans dipstick tube, the radiator hoses, 1 of the charcoal canister lines, and the 2 fuel lines to the rail to remove in order to get the engine out.

Remove the radiator, remove the cooling fan, and the power steering pump+bracket in order to make removal easier. You might save yourself a mess by removing the pump without disconnecting the lines and tying it up on the chassis somewhere.