Pulling an M20

[5Toes]

I guess I will do an AC delete too witht his! woot

noob question though.. how did you guys secure the seatbelts or ratchet straps to the actual engine hoist hook?

[10Toes]

You don't kneed a load leveler, you can use a ratchet strap and a chain. Hook a chain to the fornt point and then hook the ratchet strap to the rear point or around the transmission.

You can use the ratchet strap as the load leveler. And if you use your leg as a prey bar plz post pics.

[BustaRhymes325i]

you are gonna drop that shit guaranteed.

10Toes: brb hoisting my engine with no load leveler and a hoist made out of 2x4's and bubbletape


ok realtalk:

i hoisted my s50 in with nothing but a come-along or whatever that ratcheting mechanism is. i had it secured to the rafters of the garage, i had no modulation of the engine really (except up and down), but instead modulated the car backward and forward, as I dropped it in. this was with the trans connected too. did it all by myself, no helpers.

[5Toes]

I have ratchet straps, Ill use those

[iamsam]

no don't bend the lift hook back, you will only fatigue it more.

and whoops, i forgot to label my fuel lines. Well, if the car doesn't run, i'll switch 'em!

[Bearmw]

The next one I pull I'm dropping the subframe.

[Axxe]

noob question though.. how did you guys secure the seatbelts or ratchet straps to the actual engine hoist hook?

Ummmmmmmmmm. It's one of those questions where if you have to ask, you need to make sure there are lots of people around that are going to help / actually do the work.

[5Toes]

I figured it out.. the straps have hooks and well duh

Seatbelt webbing like I have though has no hooks or loops or anything sewn into it

[Axxe]

Ever hear of a knot?

[F34R]

If you split the tranny remember to label the TPS wires(two of them).

Good luck and don't let anyone fool you, engine swaps are easy. I learned my first one at 11 years old on 1979 Ford with a big block. My job was to remember what went where and hook it up. Not hard on a carbed engine I know. But this is my example of you have to start SOMEPLACE. Not one single person on here started out knowing jack shit. So just label and take your time, I currently have the m20 swap down to 3 hours out and in/running. Lift makes it happen though.

I personally would suggest dropping out from the bottom. Get ramps and get that front end up enough to clear the intake manifold. Unhook all wiring and steering rack, then when you're almost done with everything hook up the picker to the hanging points and lift up to remove the subframe. Make sure you use a long chain so you can lower to the ground and not hit the core support.

It is that easy, done it countless times before I had a lift.

Did it last year when the lift was full at the shop.




Last one you can see how I used jack stands to get up high enough. These are HD homemade stands that can support full size trucks. So i would suggest not going cheap on these if you go this route.

[5Toes]

Hmmm that does look enticing. However.. how you must lower it on to a roller of some sort right??

[5Toes]

Ever hear of a knot?

Oh yes, plenty. Im almost an eagle scout you know.. I figured seat belt would not hold with knots. But what do I know obviously

[AndrewBird]

Oh yes, plenty. Im almost an eagle scout you know.. I figured seat belt would not hold with knots. But what do I know obviously

You are actually correct. Putting a knot in webbing is a BAD idea, unless you know how to tie a proper knot intended for tying webbing.

If your webbing doesn't have any loops in it, you will be better off using chain. If it does have loops, use some of these:



A load lever isn't necessary, but it helps from banging up your transmission tunnel and your core support.

Another bad thing about just using a strap is the hook on the hoist can slide back and forth on it unless you tye a loop in the middle somewhere. This is a bad thing as it can suddenly fall if tilted to far vertical. This is why you use chain as you can snap the hook on the hoist to one of the loops on the chain.

A load lever solves all the problems though. I've got this one from Harbor Freight:

http://www.harborfreight.com/2-ton-c...eler-5402.html

and it works great. Don't bother with their cheaper one, it is garbage. I got one and returned it before I even used it. You can even find a 20% off coupon in most car/guy magazines to make it even cheaper.

[e46s54dr]

Last one you can see how I used jack stands to get up high enough. These are HD homemade stands that can support full size trucks. So i would suggest not going cheap on these if you go this route.

I see that you used "homemade stands," I also see what appears to be a gallon of blood scattered across the floor? Did you loose a limb?

J/K... I hope thats just ATF.

[F34R]

Hmmm that does look enticing. However.. how you must lower it on to a roller of some sort right??

Correct, since I was not using the motor I just dragged it out. But when it was needed again I would use a low creeper.

I see that you used "homemade stands," I also see what appears to be a gallon of blood scattered across the floor? Did you loose a limb?

J/K... I hope thats just ATF.

Yeah, my Father made them about 23 years ago. Made from 1/4 square tubing with 4 1/2 side braces and 1/2 plate bottoms. They weigh over 20lbs each haha. I also lost a limb in that removal, had to be rushed to the ER and everything.