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Nope, that's coming from the bell housing.
flywheel sensor I believe.
plugged in either of them (both are plugged into the bell housing right next to each other) into one or the other port. the open port I used for #6.
Wow, lots of posts. It's easier to read if you edit the post instead of making more lol
The sensors in your bell-housing will no longer be used. You need the CPS with the toothed reluctor wheel on the end of the crank. The pulley is attached to it via 6 13mm hex head screws. Then there's a small bracket that holds the sensor in place. If you didn't change that crank pulley, the ECU has no idea the engine is turning, so it doesn't send a signal to the coil to fire. The bracket that holds the sensor is #12 in this pic. If you are trying to use #11 as your sensor, it needs to be changed from the is motor, along with the crank pulleys (and water pump pulley or your belt size will change).
Yep, that's what I forgot to do. Swap over to the toothed crank pulley....
Had to leave the car for a few more days. I'll be back on it maybe thursday.
One last question, though: can I use the e afm at all? Or do I have to buy the i afm in order for it to run. Seems like I could just wire up resistors to give the feedback that the i afm would produce to at least limp around on.
The eta pistons and 885 top end makes 8.4:1 compression. I used a thinner head gasket and shaved the head to get it back up to the b25 compression. Building a new motor now using eta crank/rods, i pistons and shaved block. Shooting for 11:1 when it's done.
The eta pistons and 885 top end makes 8.4:1 compression. I used a thinner head gasket and shaved the head to get it back up to the b25 compression. Building a new motor now using eta crank/rods, i pistons and shaved block. Shooting for 11:1 when it's done.
make a thread. the rings in my eta block are going fast. ( burning madd oil past 5k ) I figure time just just build a block now.
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