Oil Pan Gasket Materials!
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so with a crank scraper the best bet is "sealant" between the block and scraper and scraper and pan without a gasket? i've seen people say to double gasket but seems like more things to screw up -
I use this because my shop supplier has it readily available and a decent price, but any of the elastomeric products work well (Hondabond etc). I like to stay away from silicone and neoprene products as oil will break them down over time. For the oil pans, I use it directly as the gasket and have been for years. The "Right Stuff" has held up on the endurance cars, even.Last edited by ForcedFirebird; 11-21-2017, 09:03 AM.Leave a comment:
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Yer that stuff you posted is the good stuff. Theres another product called hyloma gasket something i use alot. I think it stays sticky like that stuff too.Leave a comment:
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I would never use RVT on an oil pan that uses a gasket. The sealer I posted about is not silicone.
If you're not familiar with the feeling of how tight the M6 bolts need to be, I'd borrow a torque wrench.Leave a comment:
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What does the Bentley have to say about the sump gasket?
I am always hesitant to go to hard at it with sealant cause if it doesn't quite seal its a bit job to remove it all and try again. However the flip side is if you put enough on the chances of it leaking are low...
I think the comment about doing them up too tight is very valid, they are only tiny bolts and its just a sump after all, mechanical finesse is required on the bolts to get a good seal.Leave a comment:
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most issues with cork gaskets is its failure due to the excessive torque, just don't tighten the crap out of it. Cork will naturally wick a little oil and there will be some minor oil film/dust spots. Many think it's leaking and tighten it more until the gasket just fails. Cork will dry out over time....long time.
Not a big fan of rubber....:D rubber gasket have a tendency to displace rather than compressing. Supposedly, industry have shown this displacement can result in a 50 percent loss of flange pressure after 500 to 1,000 hours of engine operation.
If your surfaces are clean and true, I'd do paper. MTC is still making their paper gaskets, about $6. You can use Gasgacinch as suggested or readily available Permatex High tack. It will keep the gasket in place during install and will take care of minor imperfections on those mating surfaces.Leave a comment:
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Bottle says to apply both gasket and metal surface and let dry for 5min but should I everything dry separately disassemble or put the gasket and oil pan back on the block and let it dry assembled?Leave a comment:
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I'm running the Bimmerworld red paper oil pan gasket. Also some Anaerobic gasket maker around the front and rear main seals. It's been fine.Leave a comment:
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Hmmm. Thanks for the input guys. I went ahead and ordered the cork/rubber gasket from Blunttech.
i think im going to try and use both the gasket and some of that Gasgacinch stuff. looks pretty legit, and i like the can.
Thanks!Leave a comment:
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IMO cork is prone to drying out & hardening over time and losing its consistency in terms of thickness and firmness. Not my favorite gasket material.Leave a comment:
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I only use the paper gasket on the M20. Along with a nice coat of Gasgacinch.Leave a comment:
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i've used the cork and rubber on my cars with RTV no leaks yet but only at 15k on them.Leave a comment:


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