Putting the M20 back together - tips

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  • Andy348
    Mod Crazy
    • Sep 2009
    • 687

    #1

    Putting the M20 back together - tips

    I'm putting the M20 back together after pulling it all apart for a head gasket change. This is the first time I've done extensive work on this engine, but before it went in I did tb/wp change.

    I will be following the Bentley religiously, but are there any tips or pertinent advice that the Bentley doesn't cover? I've got a full HG kit with torx-headed bolts and a Goetze head gasket.

    Thanks in advance.
  • nomansland92
    E30 Mastermind
    • Aug 2010
    • 1657

    #2
    Any time I torque head bolts I put a little oil on the threads to help them seat better and prevent stripping the block.

    Just something stupid I do

    Oh and don't forget the coolant hose on the back of the head.

    But if you follow the manual you should be just fine it covers everything pretty well.

    Good luck
    Your signature picture has been removed since it contained the Photobucket "upgrade your account" image.

    IX being restored here

    Ix turbo build here

    Comment

    • e-dirty619
      Noobie
      • Dec 2011
      • 18

      #3
      Originally posted by nomansland92
      Any time I torque head bolts I put a little oil on the threads to help them seat better and prevent stripping the block.

      Just something stupid I do

      Oh and don't forget the coolant hose on the back of the head.

      But if you follow the manual you should be just fine it covers everything pretty well.

      Good luck

      if you soak the head bolt make sure to wipe them clean as it can crack the block. also make sure the head bolt holes in the block are free of fluids.
      BmMmduBbB teChHh

      Comment

      • dashboardmonkey
        FUCK YOUR WAFFLES
        • Jun 2008
        • 6158

        #4
        Be sure to oil the head bolt washers.
        -Andy

        Comment

        • jlevie
          R3V OG
          • Nov 2006
          • 13530

          #5
          What has not been mentioned, and is important, is to use a thread chasing tap on the head bolt threads in the block. And then to blow out those with compressed air after a liberal dose of solvent.
          The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
          Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

          Comment

          • Cronopoulos
            R3VLimited
            • Jul 2011
            • 2187

            #6
            Originally posted by jlevie
            What has not been mentioned, and is important, is to use a thread chasing tap on the head bolt threads in the block. And then to blow out those with compressed air after a liberal dose of solvent.
            This right here!


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            Comment

            • jlevie
              R3V OG
              • Nov 2006
              • 13530

              #7
              Oh yes, and I should have said that if you pull the head it needs to be surfaced. I've yet to see a used head that did not have some warp. If the engine has overheated or had a head gasket failure, it will need to be checked by a machine shop for cracks and then surfaced. Those are not just good ideas, they are mandatory!
              The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
              Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

              Comment

              • acolella76
                R3VLimited
                • Apr 2010
                • 2950

                #8
                Originally posted by jlevie
                Oh yes, and I should have said that if you pull the head it needs to be surfaced. I've yet to see a used head that did not have some warp. If the engine has overheated or had a head gasket failure, it will need to be checked by a machine shop for cracks and then surfaced. Those are not just good ideas, they are mandatory!
                Agreed. Having a head cleaned, tested, and resurfaced has never cost me a penny more than $100. There's no reason not to!
                -Alex

                Comment

                • wojtek79
                  Member
                  • Jan 2009
                  • 46

                  #9
                  Originally posted by acolella76
                  Agreed. Having a head cleaned, tested, and resurfaced has never cost me a penny more than $100. There's no reason not to!
                  That is with you disassembling the head yourself?

                  Comment

                  • BavarianAddict06
                    Grease Monkey
                    • Sep 2011
                    • 315

                    #10
                    Originally posted by acolella76
                    Agreed. Having a head cleaned, tested, and resurfaced has never cost me a penny more than $100. There's no reason not to!

                    same here. i just did mine and paid $45 :D


                    1987 528i Royalblau

                    Comment

                    • acolella76
                      R3VLimited
                      • Apr 2010
                      • 2950

                      #11
                      Originally posted by wojtek79
                      That is with you disassembling the head yourself?
                      Yes
                      -Alex

                      Comment

                      • Andy348
                        Mod Crazy
                        • Sep 2009
                        • 687

                        #12
                        Head has been resurfaced and checked for cracks and leaks. $45 for planing, $45 for the check. Not too shabby.

                        Thanks for all the advice. I will abide by the above. Some specific questions however:

                        I need oil that will work as well in both - and + 30 degrees celcius. Our winters here can be very harsh, and I'd be next changing the oil in the summer. I think I currently use 20w50, but don't quote me on that. Should I be using a better oil? Synthetic or non-synthetic? I read non-synthetic as to not create new leaks, but will this be a problem with new gaskets?

                        Coolant - 50/50 antifreeze and water, of course. Can it be premixed, or can I just pour 2L antifreeze and then 2L water?

                        I had many more questions that I have now forgotten. I will update as I remember

                        Comment

                        • jlevie
                          R3V OG
                          • Nov 2006
                          • 13530

                          #13
                          20w50 conventional oil in the spring, summer, and fall. 10w40 in winter.
                          The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
                          Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

                          Comment

                          • jeffnhiscars
                            R3V OG
                            • Jun 2011
                            • 6010

                            #14
                            Originally posted by Andy348
                            Coolant - 50/50 antifreeze and water, of course. Can it be premixed, or can I just pour 2L antifreeze and then 2L water?
                            Your system should hold close to 3 gallons so assuming its fully drained and you do the above. obviously you will not have a 50/50 mix. If you add 1 gal of AF then 1 gal distilled water, you will have 2 empty jugs to make a 3rd gallon of 50/50 to finish with
                            Seat Shocks....I have passed the baton to John Christy from Ninestitch. Email John or Garrett at ninestitch1@gmail.com

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                            • Kozworth
                              E30 Fanatic
                              • May 2011
                              • 1339

                              #15
                              Putting the 2.7 stroker togather (tty inqueries)

                              Nvm

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