Head Gasket job without Resurfacing the head?

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  • kid325e
    R3V OG
    • Sep 2007
    • 6421

    #16
    Get it checked out, no sense in doing all that work to take a risk that the head isn't in the best shape!

    Get the bicycle out and ride that shit for a few days if it means doing it once, doing it right.
    clutchCTRL!
    Move with a purpose.
    - 1991 325iX 4dr/5spd
    - 1976 2002 SlickTop/2.7i M20/G260
    - 2000 323i AT
    2016 Mazda CX3 Sport AWD

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    • Butler
      E30 Mastermind
      • Nov 2009
      • 1613

      #17
      Thats why we have back up E30s man ^ :P
      -Nick
      Originally posted by 87e30
      First of all: calm the fuck down; second of all; cool story bro.

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      • Dj Buttchug
        R3V OG
        • Jun 2010
        • 7631

        #18
        no more than .006 warpage :up:

        Turbo M42 Build Thread :Here
        Ig:ryno_pzk
        I like the tuna here.
        Originally posted by lambo
        Buttchug. The official poster child of r3v.

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        • TobyB
          R3V Elite
          • Oct 2011
          • 5163

          #19
          The only reason to surface a head is if the surface is distorted.
          It can be warped or corroded. If it's not, don't cut it. They're not really supposed to be cut at all...

          However, without checking it, there's no way to know if it needs surfacing.
          Often, they don't, if they're just leaking oil. The thing is clamped to a nice,
          flat block- if it's kept reasonably cool, it can go a million miles or more, and never warp.

          The valve guides, however, poop out at 150k or so, give or take 50k miles.
          So it's worth having them checked, and probably redone, and the valves reground
          at that point.
          The machinist will check the surface, and give it a skim IF it needs it.

          Which it very well may not.

          You only know if you have a machinist's straightedge (or better) or a surface plate.

          Jeepers.

          t
          now, sometimes I just mess with people. It's more entertaining that way. george graves

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          • blueapplesoda
            E30 Mastermind
            • Dec 2005
            • 1904

            #20
            I've lapped the head before with a large sanding block to clean off old gasket and mated with a goetze hg and new bolts (I use metric blues on the "economy" builds) and they've held well with no issues. Just gotta make sure they are flat and your strokes are even in an alternating diagonal pattern. I've done three like this, they all run fine, even under boost.

            You may want to lap the block surface too. Just make sure everything is super clean (i use acetone) before reassembly. If you use vr gaskets, it won't hurt to spray an even coat of copper gasket spray too.

            All-Red/MHW style Professional Tinted Tail lights
            PnP EMS, fuel injectors, wideband o2 systems

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            • !kid
              E30 Fanatic
              • Mar 2009
              • 1362

              #21
              Originally posted by MR 325
              Your mechanic is a fucking idiot. Find a new mechanic.

              Even if the car never overheated or blew the headgasket there WILL be some warping to the head.

              Have it resurfaced, do it right, or don't do it at all.
              I will agree that a cylinder head will have some deflection. In my opinion, if the deflection is with in the specified range , having the head resurfaced is unnecessary.

              OP- you may need to get a thicker head gasket after you have the head surfaced.

              the next size up on the gasket is .3 mm that's .011 inches ask how much they skim off the deck of the head and that will dictate if you need the thicker HG.
              :borg:

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              • AndrewBird
                The Mad Scientist
                • Oct 2003
                • 11892

                #22
                What I think most people don't realize is that the head isn't warped when it is still bolted to the block, but when you unbolt it, the aluminum "relaxes" and warps. Removing the head bolts in the correct order helps with this, but you will almost always have a small amount of unevenness. A .002" cut should clean up most heads, unless the engine was overheated or something else happened.

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                • -bimmerboy-
                  Member
                  • Jan 2013
                  • 85

                  #23
                  could a head that hasnt be sesurfaced that has recently been rebuilt cause coolant leaking and overheating?

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                  • dnguyen1963
                    R3VLimited
                    • Nov 2011
                    • 2648

                    #24
                    Originally posted by -bimmerboy-
                    could a head that hasnt be sesurfaced that has recently been rebuilt cause coolant leaking and overheating?
                    If the head did not get a decking when it was put back into the engine then, yes, it could cause coolant leakage and subsequent overheating.

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                    • Butler
                      E30 Mastermind
                      • Nov 2009
                      • 1613

                      #25
                      I got the head out today and after my inspection it looks "good". What ever that means, I don't have a metal straight edge that I'd call legit. I'll get one tomorrow and take a real measurement.
                      -Nick
                      Originally posted by 87e30
                      First of all: calm the fuck down; second of all; cool story bro.

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                      • Cabriolet
                        R3V OG
                        • Apr 2010
                        • 9620

                        #26
                        dont forget to do your valve seals while it's out
                        Much wow
                        I hate 4 doors

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