Extremely loud ticking after head rebuild

[e30mpg]

turn up the music then you won't hear the valves

[dnguyen1963]

valve to piston contact isn't metal to metal clanging (if it is, your engine is already dead). it sounds like a loud ticking. it can be light enough to be loud and not damage the valves but the main bearings won't like it at all.

this kid needs a lot of help. I don't think we should be too hard on him unless he's refusing to try and learn. Obviously a head build was a little too much but now he gets to learn.

OP - you need to do some research and reading. the bentley is definitely a good place to start.

56 ft/lbs is the initial torque for torque to yield bolts. then you need to turn them 90 degrees, in the tightening pattern, 2 full sequences (180 degrees total). and they shouldn't be re-used. TTY bolts are actually very forgiving and they don't need to be retightened after heat cycles.

also, iphones suck. :p

Yeah, he is doing a head job (not the other head for you perverts) so he is willing to learn. I just wish that he has done some research. It would have saved him time and money.

[MR 325]

turn up the music then you won't hear the valves

Good call!

[enigmaticdream]

Oh boy. As a lot of others have said do research. Make sure you clean out the head bolt holes in the block before reinstalling the head again. Some compressed air and rags help.

[jlevie]

Oh boy. As a lot of others have said do research. Make sure you clean out the head bolt holes in the block before reinstalling the head again. Some compressed air and rags help.

You really should chase the threads in the block before re-installing the head.

[Chepe30]

did you only torque them down to 56 ft/lbs and thats it? :O

[-bimmerboy-]

did you only torque them down to 56 ft/lbs and thats it? :O

Yeah thats what the bentley says. Is that not enough?

[nando]

did you even bother to read my post?

[-bimmerboy-]

did you even bother to read my post?

I did, however thats not what it said. Its says this: stage 1: 22 ft lbs stage 2: 90 degree turn stage 3: another 90 degree turn, which if done correctly they say should equal to 56 ft lbs......is there something im missing here or what?

[nando]

no, it does not equal 56ft/lbs. it equals 22ft/lbs and 180 degrees.

[Exodus_2pt0]

I did, however thats not what it said. Its says this: stage 1: 22 ft lbs stage 2: 90 degree turn stage 3: another 90 degree turn, which if done correctly they say should equal to 56 ft lbs......is there something im missing here or what?

Forget what you think you know about stretch bolts and torque.

The only torque reading that matters on head bolts is the intial torque. After that go by the angles, which is why it is so important to not loose track of where you are during the torque procedure. Minimize distractions.

[-bimmerboy-]

Are you guys talking about hex bolts or torx bolts? Because i am using the victor reinz torx bolts

[nando]

Torx.. the hex bolts were recalled like two decades ago, you cant even buy them.

[-bimmerboy-]

Im so confused as to why the manual would tell to go to 22 ft lbs and then only two 90 degree turns. Which would equal out to 56 lbs which they say is the "yield" my mechanic said if i took it anymore the bolts would snap off into the head. Is that true? And so the correct way to do them is take it to 56 lbs tq and then do two 90 degree turns in the correct order?

[MR 325]

And so the correct way to do them is take it to 56 lbs tq and then do two 90 degree turns in the correct order?

no, it does not equal 56ft/lbs. it equals 22ft/lbs and 180 degrees.