Extremely loud ticking after head rebuild

[Exodus_2pt0]

Im so confused as to why the manual would tell to go to 22 ft lbs and then only two 90 degree turns. Which would equal out to 56 lbs which they say is the "yield" my mechanic said if i took it anymore the bolts would snap off into the head. Is that true? And so the correct way to do them is take it to 56 lbs tq and then do two 90 degree turns in the correct order?

If your mechanic doesn't know what torque to yield bolt's are, then find another mechanic.

Scratch that, find a trained technician.

The bolts are made to STRETCH. No one could really tell you what torque they are after final bolt down procedure, because it doesn't matter. Some brains in some building somewhere have designed the bolts to be turned in degrees. This creates an even clamping force by eliminating variations in a torque reading due to a number of conditions that may be present. Well, maybe those engineers could tell you the final torque, and it may be 56 lbs. The problem is, they stretch to get that final 56lbs, and by doing so you tighten them to a lower torque, then twist the specified angle.

If you still don't want to listen, then stop asking. This is my biggest pet peeve. You asked a question, you got an answer. Since you didn't get the answer that YOU wanted to hear, you keep asking over and over again. You do realize that most who have answered you are either technicians, or have extensive experience with this as a hobby right?
Does the book not tell you to tighten, then 90*, then 90*? SPECIFICALLY? Why would it tell you to do that, just to go back and say "screw it, just tighten them to 56lb!" It doesn't. Ignore the 56lb remark, get some new head bolts, and do it again.

If it helps, I am an ASE Master tech, Nissan Specialist factory trained tech, and have been wrenching as a hobby since I was 15. 26 now. Does that make you feel any better about it? FOLLOW THE BOOK, IGNORE THE 56 LB PART.

You know what? Fuck it, you are right. 56 ft/lb's it is.... Have a nice day.

OR

it equals 22ft/lbs and 180 degrees.

What he said. Tighten all the bolts to 22 ft/lbs in the specified order. Then go around, starting at 1, and turn each bolt an addition 90* Make an L with your breaker bar or torque wrech. Then do it all one more time. There, I said it nicely, in a way that ANYONE could understand. Now don't come back until you have done that. Oh, and don't try to re use your old bolts.

[dnguyen1963]

OP...there are times when you should learn to shut up and listen.

[travish325]

Or If you just want to torque them get studs since they are idiot proof... well to an extent they are

[e30mpg]

told u to turn up the music, see this is what u get now.

[nando]

Or If you just want to torque them get studs since they are idiot proof... well to an extent they are

actually, TTY bolts are more idiot proof than non-stretch bolts. once you get to the flat part of the yield curve, plus or minus a few degrees won't make a lot of difference.

[nando]

Im so confused as to why the manual would tell to go to 22 ft lbs and then only two 90 degree turns. Which would equal out to 56 lbs which they say is the "yield" my mechanic said if i took it anymore the bolts would snap off into the head. Is that true? And so the correct way to do them is take it to 56 lbs tq and then do two 90 degree turns in the correct order?

torque is meaningless when tightening bolts, because it's affected by friction on the threads. It works OK in many cases, but head bolts are pretty important. Torque angle is a much better measurement, because it's known what the exact amount of stretch there will be, and it gets you to the flat part of the yield curve.

I gaurantee you it's going to be a lot more than 56 ft/lbs as measured by a torque wrench, but again, in the context of TTY bolts, torque values are meaningless.

[Chepe30]

just a quick question here, how does 22 ft/lb + 90* + 90* = 56 ft/lbs? just curious

[-bimmerboy-]

If your mechanic doesn't know what torque to yield bolt's are, then find another mechanic.

Scratch that, find a trained technician.

The bolts are made to STRETCH. No one could really tell you what torque they are after final bolt down procedure, because it doesn't matter. Some brains in some building somewhere have designed the bolts to be turned in degrees. This creates an even clamping force by eliminating variations in a torque reading due to a number of conditions that may be present. Well, maybe those engineers could tell you the final torque, and it may be 56 lbs. The problem is, they stretch to get that final 56lbs, and by doing so you tighten them to a lower torque, then twist the specified angle.

If you still don't want to listen, then stop asking. This is my biggest pet peeve. You asked a question, you got an answer. Since you didn't get the answer that YOU wanted to hear, you keep asking over and over again. You do realize that most who have answered you are either technicians, or have extensive experience with this as a hobby right?
Does the book not tell you to tighten, then 90*, then 90*? SPECIFICALLY? Why would it tell you to do that, just to go back and say "screw it, just tighten them to 56lb!" It doesn't. Ignore the 56lb remark, get some new head bolts, and do it again.

If it helps, I am an ASE Master tech, Nissan Specialist factory trained tech, and have been wrenching as a hobby since I was 15. 26 now. Does that make you feel any better about it? FOLLOW THE BOOK, IGNORE THE 56 LB PART.

You know what? Fuck it, you are right. 56 ft/lb's it is.... Have a nice day.

OR



What he said. Tighten all the bolts to 22 ft/lbs in the specified order. Then go around, starting at 1, and turn each bolt an addition 90* Make an L with your breaker bar or torque wrech. Then do it all one more time. There, I said it nicely, in a way that ANYONE could understand. Now don't come back until you have done that. Oh, and don't try to re use your old bolts.

Damn what the hell guy i was only confused i wasnt trying to get an answer that i wanted? I just didnt understand what yall were saying but i completely understand now. The 56 ft lbs in the bentley just totally messed me up im sorry if you guys thought i wasnt wanting to take yall's advice and wisdom i do appreciate yalls patience. Sorry again for the confusion. I feel like an idiot haha. I originally did the 22 ft lbs then the 2 90 degrees like you said so i should be fine

[Exodus_2pt0]

If you did that originally, your head bolts would not have come loose.

[liquidgroove]

No but there is oil seeping out of the back left corner of the bottom of the head

Oil must come out that thin bar on top of the camshaft. It will quickly destroy your camshaft without sufficient lube.

[-bimmerboy-]

Oil must come out that thin bar on top of the camshaft. It will quickly destroy your camshaft without sufficient lube.

Could that have caused this?

http://i1324.photobucket.com/albums/u604/bimmerboy3/6ACC993B-BF7B-423E-BFC5-B27421D909D5-1769-0000016F8CB08A49_zps4b317c8f.jpg

[Exodus_2pt0]

I'm really not trying to be a dick here... But how did you time the motor without removing the bottom front cover and pulley?

Also, you didn't re-use that belt did you? You also realize you should have set the motor to TDC Cylinder 1 before removal of the head right?



Oh, and yes that cam looks shot.

I am getting the feeling that you didn't do any research before tearing into this car. We've all been beginners before, but when I did my first big job I had about 10 pages of instructions printed out to reference during the repair.

At this point I would be willing to bet $20 that you have the timing a tooth off and have killed your brand new cam and a few, if not all valves.

[travish325]

Is that an o2 sensor on that last exhaust runner?

[-bimmerboy-]

I'm really not trying to be a dick here... But how did you time the motor without removing the bottom front cover and pulley?

Also, you didn't re-use that belt did you? You also realize you should have set the motor to TDC Cylinder 1 before removal of the head right?



Oh, and yes that cam looks shot.

I am getting the feeling that you didn't do any research before tearing into this car. We've all been beginners before, but when I did my first big job I had about 10 pages of instructions printed out to reference during the repair.

At this point I would be willing to bet $20 that you have the timing a tooth off and have killed your brand new cam and a few, if not all valves.

Yes i very well know piston one needs to be top dead center we were moving the pistons to check them for scaring since the car over heated and we took the head off by pulling the belt off the cam gear?? And its a new timing belt...well not out of the package new but only has 20 miles on it...im not a fucking idiot bro.

[-bimmerboy-]

Oil must come out that thin bar on top of the camshaft. It will quickly destroy your camshaft without sufficient lube.

Oil spray bar? Yeah im checking that out tonight to make sure those holes arent clogged