m20 valve tick

[e30vert]

You did think about it again and just typo'd, right? Correct feeler gauge is 0.10"/0.25mm, not the 0.025mm as you stated.

Well I started the engine and heard that the valve tick was worse and thought I must have used the wrong feeler gauge . Then jumped online to use the metric (mm) conversion to inches and determined that .25 mm equates to .010 inches and the light bulb went off and I thought I do have a .010 feeler gauge so I must need to use that. Inspected the thickness and sure enough the .010 gauge was thinner than the .25 gauge . So thats when I knew. Readjusted the valves using the new gauge and results are much better. Plus it was confirmed by Digger here on the forum so that solidified it. Car was not driven and remained at rough idle for a short duration so no discernable damage was done. No knocks, etc

[jjjjj]

Well I started the engine and heard that the valve tick was worse and thought I must have used the wrong feeler gauge . Then jumped online to use the metric (mm) conversion to inches and determined that .25 mm equates to .010 inches and the light bulb went off and I thought I do have a .010 feeler gauge so I must need to use that. Inspected the thickness and sure enough the .010 gauge was thinner than the .25 gauge . So thats when I knew. Readjusted the valves using the new gauge and results are much better. Plus it was confirmed by Digger here on the forum so that solidified it. Car was not driven and remained at rough idle for a short duration so no discernable damage was done. No knocks, etc

Great, happy to hear nothing was messed up. The proper amount of "drag" on the gauge has always given me a hard time. I think one of my valve stem seals might be bad, because there's a valve that always ticks a lot louder than the rest of them.

[e30vert]

I struggled with that at first as well. What I did was remove the .010 feeler gauge from the rest of the feeler gauges so I could use it as a single blade. Then I manually bent it so it was curved. Then I rotated the eccentrics till they were TIGHT on the feeler gauge . Then I tightened the nut that secures the eccentric just slightly. So I could still move the eccentrics , but they were'nt floppy and loose. Then I could use a small Allen key to rotate the eccentrics until I got that slight amount of drag needed without being too tight or loose.
Then I just held the eccentric in place with the Allen key and tightened the nut all the way up.

[digger]

there is a spring loaded tool that helps with setting lash its cheap and saves time dicking around
http://www.sirtools.com/bm3013.jpg

http://www.sirtools.com/bmw_page_2.htm