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Timing Belt Shredded Last Night

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    Timing Belt Shredded Last Night

    So I was going to drink coffee with a friend last night and o my way my car had a sudden loss of power. I pulled over immediately and my engine cut off. I tried to crank it and it just sounded like it was whining (wa wa wa wa) No intentions to turn on at all. I took out my flashlight and looked and my timing belt cover was broken, you can see the belt inside was shredded. The funny thing is that it didnt break but it fell apart from the middle of the belt and the other half was good. Not sure what could have caused that type of damage, maybe the idler was bad or what. I dont know...

    I towed it home and took it apart, took out the plugs and cranked it with my pressure tested and ZERO compression. Looks like bent valves. The belt was only months old, as well as the head, I don't know what went wrong.

    Any suggenstions
    Attached Files
    I am not sick, I am twisted. Sick makes it sound like there is a cure.

    1991 318is Diamantschwarz Metallic
    1989 325i Alpine White

    #2
    Contitech brand? Or just over tightened?
    Much wow
    I hate 4 doors

    Comment


      #3
      Curious to see what happened. This is strange. Wonder if the tensioner came apart. Anywayin for updates.

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by e30crazie View Post
        The belt was only months old, as well as the head, I don't know what went wrong.

        Any suggenstions
        Something must have been done wrong when doing the timing belt. They don't just do this after a couple months. My rough guess is the same as Cabriolet's; over-tightening.
        ADAMS Autosport

        Comment


          #5
          was it one of those cheapie tensioners?

          how exactly would you overtighten it when the spring controls that?
          Build thread

          Bimmerlabs

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by Cabriolet View Post
            Contitech brand? Or just over tightened?
            Both... Contitech was the brand and I may have over tightened it. This is my first time doing the belt, I guess its an expensive lesson. Totally sucks as the head was just rebuild in January 2013, no I have to spring for a new one as this is my only daily driver.

            So can see the I just take the valves to get replaced or should I get the whole thing rebuilt? See the piston tops, they have the tell tell signs of hitting the valves.
            Attached Files
            I am not sick, I am twisted. Sick makes it sound like there is a cure.

            1991 318is Diamantschwarz Metallic
            1989 325i Alpine White

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by nando View Post
              was it one of those cheapie tensioners?

              how exactly would you overtighten it when the spring controls that?
              Not sure, it was given to me brand new with no box or wrapping. Cant rally say.
              I am not sick, I am twisted. Sick makes it sound like there is a cure.

              1991 318is Diamantschwarz Metallic
              1989 325i Alpine White

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by e30crazie View Post
                Not sure, it was given to me brand new with no box or wrapping. Cant rally say.
                Here are more pics of the tensioner and the belt that shredded from only one side.
                Attached Files
                I am not sick, I am twisted. Sick makes it sound like there is a cure.

                1991 318is Diamantschwarz Metallic
                1989 325i Alpine White

                Comment


                  #9
                  well if you pushed on the tensioner more than the spring's force it would over tighten.

                  also check to see if debris got stuck in there and caused it to wear.
                  on the back of the upper cover there is a rubber piece that needs to be there to keep crap out. was that on?


                  the pistons will be fine.

                  as for the head. if you have money get yours fully rebuilt. new valves and guides. (as long as the cast is still good)

                  else get a pnp head, have it machined and pressure tested and then throw it on.

                  use goetze HG and BMW headbolts or ARP studs
                  Much wow
                  I hate 4 doors

                  Comment


                    #10
                    That kind of failure suggests a bad belt, or something rubbing on the center of the belt. I would not expect over tightening to produce that clean and uniform of a failure line.
                    The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
                    Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by jlevie View Post
                      That kind of failure suggests a bad belt, or something rubbing on the center of the belt. I would not expect over tightening to produce that clean and uniform of a failure line.
                      I agree, it could be something rubbing as well.

                      Disagree on the "bad belt", would think it would have be completely separated across the width of the belt to indicate it being "bad".
                      ADAMS Autosport

                      Comment


                        #12
                        it was that crap-o Fram filter

                        j/k

                        I agree with Jim, I think its a defective belt
                        1989 cirrisblau-metallic 325i

                        Comment


                          #13
                          To me I thing it was something that caused it to move inwards, when I first took off the over the belt was bunched up against the head. Like it moved inward and started to deteriorate until it ultimately caught on something. My theory is that if it was a defective belt, I would have cracked and snapped. The good half of the belt looks to be in tact. Either way, today was 50% off sale at the local Pick a Part and I got a good looking head. It cost me $53.00 including the $10.00 core charge and the TB cover. Now I just need to buy the head gasket and put it back together.

                          Just for shits and giggles... Can I use the same head gasket? Since the engine did not overheat the gasket should still be good. Right? Its only been 10 months since replaced it. Let me know your thoughts.
                          I am not sick, I am twisted. Sick makes it sound like there is a cure.

                          1991 318is Diamantschwarz Metallic
                          1989 325i Alpine White

                          Comment


                            #14
                            i wonder if there is an alignment issue that caused the belt to bunch up against the front or rear? it is possible that the splitting was right at the last moment and not the initiator
                            89 E30 325is Lachs Silber - currently M20B31, M20B33 in the works, stroked to the hilt...

                            new build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=317505

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Originally posted by e30crazie View Post
                              Just for shits and giggles... Can I use the same head gasket? Since the engine did not overheat the gasket should still be good. Right? Its only been 10 months since replaced it. Let me know your thoughts.
                              Once a head gasket has been brought to full clamping pressure, it must be replaced if the head is removed. You will also need new head bolts and a thread chasing tap to clean the threads in the block.

                              For this job you will need:

                              Head gasket
                              Thermostat housing gasket
                              Intake gaskets
                              Oil return tube o-rings
                              Exhaust gaskets
                              Down tube gaskets
                              Valve cover gasket
                              Head bolts
                              Copper plated exhaust and down tube nuts

                              There is a good chance that you'll need to replace the cam shaft seal and o-ring.
                              The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
                              Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

                              Comment

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