Hot Rod
We're finally getting to the point that "working on the car" means hot rodding around the block, not fixing things.
We'll except for this.Replaced the surge tank fuel pressure sensor so that dash light would turn off.
Soldering in place. My least favorite thing.
But the sensor works now. Surge tank low pressure light is off (one on the bottom, right of fuel pressure gauge). Top light is low pressure warning for main fuel circuit. Note the the fuel pressure is 60 psi without the car running. It drops to 50 for normal operation. There are programmable circuit boards controlling the low fuel warning level, low oil pressure and high water temperature. We have to tweak them at some point. Hasn't been done yet.
Passenger seat in, belts installed. Looking very sporty
Added a Longacre parabolic racing mirror. Why is it in front of the driver, not middle of the car? We found it gives GREAT visibility at this location, without obstructing forward view. You can literally see out both rear side windows, all the way to the back of the car. Rob said "Wow. I can see the drill press and metal bender at the same time" Makes a good sun visor too.
Finally on the road. We have a license plate, insurance, turn signals horn etc, just not an inspection sticker. Good enough for laps of the neighborhood. Got lots of waves and thumbs up.
I was the co-pilot, running Tuner Studio while Rob drove. This is VE Autotune showing history of where we are in the table. Just wanted to get a feel for it first.
Then we turned on autotune. This adjusts delivered fuel to meet the AFR target for each cell in real-time while you drive.
You can see what the changes were before applying them permanently. Red for more fuel, blue for less. Works pretty good. Note this is not a substitute for dyno tuning. We're just getting it bulletproof and "good enough" before going back to the dyno.
We never felt any boost, so went back and checked some things. Verified the boost control solenoid worked with test mode. (See all the previous posts on that adventure) Turns out the boost control table was set to 0% for all ranges, meaning the valve was continually closed. Remember that more solenoid PWM = more valve open = more PSI keeping waste gate closed = more boost. (Go back and look, we have diagrams) We adjusted the boost control table to give us 50% boost at WOT, depending on RPM and 25% boost at 1/2 throttle. Goal is to see just a bit of boost, confirm that's working.
Next time we'll do some data logging to verify key parameters: RPM, fuel load, throttle position, water temp, boost PWM duty cycle, boost PSI and AFR. We have these on a gauge cluster as well.
Finally, we're going to take the car to a small local track "Harris Hill" for some test and tune. Will let us get better data than around the neighborhood.
Pretty damn satisfying to have it running. Thanks to everyone who has chimed in with helpful tips.
We're finally getting to the point that "working on the car" means hot rodding around the block, not fixing things.
We'll except for this.Replaced the surge tank fuel pressure sensor so that dash light would turn off.
Soldering in place. My least favorite thing.
But the sensor works now. Surge tank low pressure light is off (one on the bottom, right of fuel pressure gauge). Top light is low pressure warning for main fuel circuit. Note the the fuel pressure is 60 psi without the car running. It drops to 50 for normal operation. There are programmable circuit boards controlling the low fuel warning level, low oil pressure and high water temperature. We have to tweak them at some point. Hasn't been done yet.
Passenger seat in, belts installed. Looking very sporty
Added a Longacre parabolic racing mirror. Why is it in front of the driver, not middle of the car? We found it gives GREAT visibility at this location, without obstructing forward view. You can literally see out both rear side windows, all the way to the back of the car. Rob said "Wow. I can see the drill press and metal bender at the same time" Makes a good sun visor too.
Finally on the road. We have a license plate, insurance, turn signals horn etc, just not an inspection sticker. Good enough for laps of the neighborhood. Got lots of waves and thumbs up.
I was the co-pilot, running Tuner Studio while Rob drove. This is VE Autotune showing history of where we are in the table. Just wanted to get a feel for it first.
Then we turned on autotune. This adjusts delivered fuel to meet the AFR target for each cell in real-time while you drive.
You can see what the changes were before applying them permanently. Red for more fuel, blue for less. Works pretty good. Note this is not a substitute for dyno tuning. We're just getting it bulletproof and "good enough" before going back to the dyno.
We never felt any boost, so went back and checked some things. Verified the boost control solenoid worked with test mode. (See all the previous posts on that adventure) Turns out the boost control table was set to 0% for all ranges, meaning the valve was continually closed. Remember that more solenoid PWM = more valve open = more PSI keeping waste gate closed = more boost. (Go back and look, we have diagrams) We adjusted the boost control table to give us 50% boost at WOT, depending on RPM and 25% boost at 1/2 throttle. Goal is to see just a bit of boost, confirm that's working.
Next time we'll do some data logging to verify key parameters: RPM, fuel load, throttle position, water temp, boost PWM duty cycle, boost PSI and AFR. We have these on a gauge cluster as well.
Finally, we're going to take the car to a small local track "Harris Hill" for some test and tune. Will let us get better data than around the neighborhood.
Pretty damn satisfying to have it running. Thanks to everyone who has chimed in with helpful tips.
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