Das Beast: My E30 track / street build

[SLEEPYDUB]

Nice build man. I just came across this thread bc the bird man posted up your dyno and your build is farily similar to mine (6266 T3 0.81ar, 2.7/885 with 280/274, stock gasket, arp, MS3 Pro Evo full sequential, etc).
I use a Sach 765 PP and a ceramic 6 puck that works well for reference, but looks like you got that figured out. I went through a few 228mm clutchs with no luck till i swapped to the 240mm setup. Will be going twin disk ceramic next.
As for you 0.58T4 turbine housing, I used to run one of those on my VR6. It was instant boost. I mean crazy power anytime you step on the gas, almost too much. I didn't like the way the power fell off in the top end with that housing, so I switch to a 1.06AR and even though it was a punch in the face when it came on, I enjoyed it more. But, different goals for different folks. If you're looking for instant power in any gear at any rpm, then thats the one for you. You can expect to lose some power though on the same boost levels. I don't know how i'd feel about that housing with that cam, but I am super interested in seeing your results because I have considered the 0.58 for my M20 when I swap to a T4 housing (have a 0.81ar T4 housing ready to go from my 2JZ).
As for your idle, you could try cracking the throttle plate a bit more because you said it sounded like it needed more air. And then use timing to create a valley and control the idle rpm.

Are you on 93 or Ethanol? Judging by your ignition map, id assume pump gas?
Why did you dyno tuner use the STD correction of the more widely accepted SAE?
I'd like to see your final timing map to see if he used a timing valley at peak torque or not if you can provide it?
What rpm are you seeing 10psi at?
What rpm are you seeing 19psi at?

Thanks! Great build!

[ForcedFirebird]

STD is the program default in WinPep (Dyno software). Personally use the Dyno as a tool for progression, not to state exactly how much power, so I often forget to change the correction factor when on the rollers, and just make the adjustment when reading the file back, it posting etc. Probably the same for his local tuner.

[dvallis]

Woah Dub. So much information in one post. :-)

I'm on pump gas 93. It's just simpler logistics rather than hauling around race fuel. Will pull the rpm psi data next time I'm at the shop.

What exact clutch and flywheel did you use in that 765 clutch setup? I almost went that way but could not find the known good recipe for M20 + G260. Stack height varies and I didn't have enough parts to experiment.

[ForcedFirebird]

I honestly think your clutch will be fine ---- as long as you don't engine brake, and have a good rev match. First if all, it's not broken/bedded yet, second if all, this is a road race build, not a shocking drag car.

Bone stock m20 Sachs clutches last me about 45-50 race hours (one season) with no sign of slippage when changing them. Sure it's half the power at 180/180 at the wheels, but again, stock replacement.

[dvallis]

The Beast is too loud for normal conversation when tooling around. Well, even for shouted conversation. Picked up a pair of aircraft grade headsets and a voice activated intercom box,

At least Amazon and USPS are still working. Keep Calm and Wash Your Hands

[dvallis]

What to do in quarantine?

Play DCS World of course!

View from the Radar Intercept Officer cockpit of an F14B, dropping 1000 lb laser guided bombs.


Bad Hair Day inbound for a ZSU-234


Boom Shaka Laka

[dvallis]

Pandemic Mechanic

Back to our regularly scheduled programming.

There's a lot of heat building up under the hood around the turbo and down pipe, so we're giving it a place to go. Some cardboard engineering to plan the location.




They come in a set, 7" x 23"



On to the new turbo snail. Taking this apart again.



This V-band is getting worse for wear with the heat.



Rob doing some rework on it with ant-seize



Taking this off is always fun



Have to unplug the wideband O2 inside the car to get the down pipe out.



Here's the patient



Pinhole leak by the v-band



Another one near the middle. Will be taking this to the welding shop.



Getting there



Taking this frigging flange bolt out is total hell



Victory!



New snail on the right. Doesn't look too different, right?



Here's a better look. Now you can really see the difference. I like that the smaller turbine is open, not divided.



We're swapping out that damn upper right flange bolt for a stud and nut. More on that tomorrow

[dvallis]

New turbine installed. Just need the down pipe touched up and we're back in business.

Original

New

[Digitalwave]

We talked about this earlier in the thread, but you don't want to put vents that far back on the hood if you are looking to extract air. Positive pressure has built back it on the hood by about the halfway point. The back of the vent so close to the cowl is actually going to force air into the back of the engine bay. Shorter vents much closer to the leading edge of the hood are going to be more effective.

[dvallis]

Wow. I totally don't remember talking about that. Gotta love the R3V community though. Think about hood vents and you get a CFD analysis the next day. :-) Thanks!

Back to the nuts & bolts of it. Check the pics above. Close to the leading edge seems kind of useless since they're nowhere near the turbo. Slightly rear of middle would pick up the turbo and some downpipe. Looks like the best compromise.

[Digitalwave]

You can't get too far to the edge anyways because of the bracing structure. This gives you a good idea of where my old vent setup was positioned, the side vents were as far forward as they could be.

[dvallis]

I have a fiberglass hood. My vents go where I want them to :-)

[Digitalwave]

Mine was FG/CF also. Still had bracing so it could maintain some structure.

[dvallis]

Ah, I see what you mean. Will have to get under the hood and check where those structural ribs are.

BUT I CAN'T .... since Austin is under quarantine and the car is at Rob's shop. Sigh ......

Nice ride BTW. Looks great.

[dvallis]

Wow, it's been 1 month and 2 days since the last post. Seems like forever. Austin is still on lock down so Rob is solo a mano replacing the oil pan gasket, again. We WILL fix this oil leak. (More on that in a minute)

Built this in the meantime. UV-C decontamination chamber.

Literature says virus killing 253 nm UV flux is 40 mJ/cm2
1J = 1W x 1 sec
G5T8 UV-C bulb output @ 1m = 26 uW/cm2
26x1e-6W/cm2 x 3600sec = 94 mJ/cm2
Distance is 1/3 of 1m so ~300 mJ/cm2 in 1h
5 bulbs in each side of the box
UVC Flux ~= 1500 mJ/cm2 in 1h

There is no kill like over kill

Note: Measured with a UV-C dosimeter and recorded 1800 mJ/cm2 per 1h exposure. Science ... Bitches! :-)

Great for zarking packages, groceries and anything else coming into the house. Virus would need 5000000 sun block to survive an hour in there.



Back to M20, Rob's on the job. We are fixing the damn oil leak.

Pan out and cleaned. Confirmed it's not warped or cracked. Block mating surface is also true.



Pan re-installed and ready for Da Goop. (aka Permatex Ultra Grey Gasket Maker)



Goop applied to block. You have to let it sit and get rubbery for a while before proceeding. Permatex says mate surfaces snug, wait 1h then torque it down.





Looks like we got a consistent bead.







Torqued in criss-cross star pattern from center of pan outwards. Letting it cure & moving on.